Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo

[CJ Van]

First things first .... congrats on the bike.

 

Now to make your life simple, can you not just get the Ribbons lowers in a 42-44mm offset?

 

If so, I am sure it could save you a wad of cash that can be spent on a good couple of beers?

Correct me if I'm wrong here but do you not need a new CSU to change the fork off-set and not a different set of lowers?  As far as I know the off-set of your fork are determined by the CSU.  Is MRP different to FOX and Rockshox in this regard?

[Grease_Monkey]

Correct me if I'm wrong here but do you not need a new CSU to change the fork off-set and not a different set of lowers? As far as I know the off-set of your fork are determined by the CSU. Is MRP different to FOX and Rockshox in this regard?

All of them differs on the lowers, not the CSU. It's the part where the axle goes through where they build in the offset.

 

CSU is standard across all models of a fork for MRP/Fox/RS

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

That's me. Fork offset, Q Factor, Suspension kinematics* it's just noise to me.

 

@Myles I'll be interested to hear your views on the narrower rims. Personally I think the performance difference between 28 and 35mm won't be noticeable but the stiffness between Ali & Carbon will.

 

*Is it just me that hates that word?

 

I kind of agree with you. I think most of the guys here have notes of their suspension settings with them doing multiple runs down a known segment and doing changes. Come on guys, be honest.

 

I tend to search forums, find a setup and then run it that way and just ride........

Suppose I could be getting more out of my kit but honestly, I couldn't be bothered

[Duane_Bosch]

 

I tend to search forums, find a setup and then run it that way and just ride........

Suppose I could be getting more out of my kit but honestly, I couldn't be bothered

I have a mate who I trust. DH, Moto, Quads, Rally. He's done it all. He does the parking lot setup and bounce for me. Then I ride it and see if it feels good. I try not to put too much thought into these things.

[Grease_Monkey]

I kind of agree with you. I think most of the guys here have notes of their suspension settings with them doing multiple runs down a known segment and doing changes. Come on guys, be honest.

 

I tend to search forums, find a setup and then run it that way and just ride........

Suppose I could be getting more out of my kit but honestly, I couldn't be bothered

I'm not gonna pretend I'm a very good rider. But I can in all honesty say that I do notice small changes - half a degree head angle here, degree STA, 10mm on a stem, 10psi in a shock. It's not gonna make me faster necessarily, but I can honestly say when I get it right I do enjoy my bike alot more.

 

But I get not wanting to faf over that stuff and just wanting to ride. For me, a big part of my enjoyment comes from tinkering and faffing over geo/suspensions/components etc...

[Hairy]

personally I am clueless ... but my mind is telling me get the one part that effects the change vs a whole new fork

Correct me if I'm wrong here but do you not need a new CSU to change the fork off-set and not a different set of lowers?  As far as I know the off-set of your fork are determined by the CSU.  Is MRP different to FOX and Rockshox in this regard?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I'm not gonna pretend I'm a very good rider. But I can in all honesty say that I do notice small changes - half a degree head angle here, degree STA, 10mm on a stem, 10psi in a shock. It's not gonna make me faster necessarily, but I can honestly say when I get it right I do enjoy my bike alot more.

 

But I get not wanting to faf over that stuff and just wanting to ride. For me, a big part of my enjoyment comes from tinkering and faffing over geo/suspensions/components etc...

 

This

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

That's me. Fork offset, Q Factor, Suspension kinematics* it's just noise to me.

 

@Myles I'll be interested to hear your views on the narrower rims. Personally I think the performance difference between 28 and 35mm won't be noticeable but the stiffness between Ali & Carbon will.

 

*Is it just me that hates that word?

No, not just you. ????

 

I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell what difference each of the 2 changes makes on their own, to be honest. If I did one step at a time, yeah, then I'd be comfortable with saying I'd be able to tell what each change (Alu to carbon; 35mm to 28mm) makes. But that would be reeeeeally expensive.

 

But both together? Nope. Will still be interesting, though!

[CJ Van]

All of them differs on the lowers, not the CSU. It's the part where the axle goes through where they build in the offset.

 

CSU is standard across all models of a fork for MRP/Fox/RS

​Is jy seker?

 

https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/pushing-the-limits-of-fork-offset-an-experiment-45343/

 

This article really makes me think it's the CSU that determines the difference and the fact that if you buy a new CSU you have to select the correct offset.

[Grease_Monkey]

​Is jy seker?

 

https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/pushing-the-limits-of-fork-offset-an-experiment-45343/

 

This article really makes me think it's the CSU that determines the difference and the fact that if you buy a new CSU you have to select the correct offset.

Lyk my dit is die Crown met Fox.

 

MRP is defnitief die lowers. Gaan seker maar af hang van die verskafer.

 

Did a bit of digging, seems like with MRP and RS the lowers can be changed, with Fox the CSU must be replaced. From my understanding anyway.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

I'm not gonna pretend I'm a very good rider. But I can in all honesty say that I do notice small changes - half a degree head angle here, degree STA, 10mm on a stem, 10psi in a shock. It's not gonna make me faster necessarily, but I can honestly say when I get it right I do enjoy my bike alot more.

 

But I get not wanting to faf over that stuff and just wanting to ride. For me, a big part of my enjoyment comes from tinkering and faffing over geo/suspensions/components etc...

 

I was the same, had my settings on Evernote and would toy around a little.

My home dynamic has just changed so I don't ride as often as I want so now I just ride.

I do believe I have a good base setting. I also don't push as hard as I used to as I can't afford to be injured and off of work.

[Eddy Gordo]

No, not just you.

 

I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell what difference each of the 2 changes makes on their own, to be honest. If I did one step at a time, yeah, then I'd be comfortable with saying I'd be able to tell what each change (Alu to carbon; 35mm to 28mm) makes. But that would be reeeeeally expensive.

 

But both together? Nope. Will still be interesting, though!

There was a rim width comparison a while back. Basically up to 31mm no real difference.

Interesting comes with alloy vs carbon. 31mm internal is widest for alloy after that its carbon territory. Something to that effect if I remember correctly.

[Bos]

I'm not gonna pretend I'm a very good rider. But I can in all honesty say that I do notice small changes - half a degree head angle here, degree STA, 10mm on a stem, 10psi in a shock. It's not gonna make me faster necessarily, but I can honestly say when I get it right I do enjoy my bike alot more.

 

But I get not wanting to faf over that stuff and just wanting to ride. For me, a big part of my enjoyment comes from tinkering and faffing over geo/suspensions/components etc...

 

The big difference, to me, is how a simple deg or two can make the worlds difference in confidence. On sections one use to hang on for dear life, one suddenly starts looking for even faster lines or ways to gap stuff. BUT, One eventually gets use to that too..

 

My 2 C, (and its just what I've read) Is that to big a taboo is made of the offset and that even to the pro's the difference is almost negligible. 

[Headshot]

Now that I am pretty used to my fornt tyre I have been experimenting with rebound front and back. I've noticed that some pro's seem to ride with very fast rebound, in some cases, full speed. I've always erred on the slower side, especially where proper jumps are involved. Since most of my riding involves higher speed descents, sometimes rocky and without any big jumps, I decided to experfiment a bit. I have been riding the fork with just one click away from full fast and the rear, about 5, only because the adjuster seems to make less difference. Its still very fast by my standards. 

 

So far, it seeems to be good. On faster bumpy descents, it feels very good and pumping the bike elicits a very nice response, making unweighting and hopping over stuff even better. I imagine that on bigger jumps my timing will have to be spot on. More riding and experimentation required.

 

On a painful note, out on my HT this morning the rubber didnt stay down and and I have a rather bruised hip, knee and a bump on my head. Something about switching to a twitchy 26er frim a tank like Enduro may have played a role...

[Hairy]

shortly before my full squish frame died I started doing exactly what you are with the rebound being sped up, and it really made a distinctive change, and for the good I recon.....the bike was more responsive and felt more supple....recon that I had too much slow rebound and the shock was packing up at higher speeds.

 

now with the LT hardtail I have the fork set up rather well, but the rear suspension feels lock out all the time

Now that I am pretty used to my fornt tyre I have been experimenting with rebound front and back. I've noticed that some pro's seem to ride with very fast rebound, in some cases, full speed. I've always erred on the slower side, especially where proper jumps are involved. Since most of my riding involves higher speed descents, sometimes rocky and without any big jumps, I decided to experfiment a bit. I have been riding the fork with just one click away from full fast and the rear, about 5, only because the adjuster seems to make less difference. Its still very fast by my standards. 

 

So far, it seeems to be good. On faster bumpy descents, it feels very good and pumping the bike elicits a very nice response, making unweighting and hopping over stuff even better. I imagine that on bigger jumps my timing will have to be spot on. More riding and experimentation required.

 

On a painful note, out on my HT this morning the rubber didnt stay down and and I have a rather bruised hip, knee and a bump on my head. Something about switching to a twitchy 26er frim a tank like Enduro may have played a role...

[Jewbacca]

I pulled the trigger on Thursday and the new frame arrived today.

 

Can't wait to start tinkering with my settings so I can join the conversation!