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Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo


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Posted

Are you guys being difficult on purpose,.. The damage to the rim was a classic ugly ding in the edge of the rim where the bead of the tyre sits.  The quoted text refers to damage to the edge of the rim. Where do you guys damage your rims? At the spoke holes? I mean....

This is one of those instances where a picture = 1000 words.

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Posted

I'm just pointing out that narrower rims might be less resistant to dings in very specific circumstances whereas wider (to a point) rims are more resistant to dings in almost every other situation (assuming other things are equal like same tyres/casing etc.).

 

We are not being difficult, we are just pointing out the flaws in your "narrower rims are better for avoiding dings" comment. 

 

Yes.. You dont want to go back..

 

You are quick to forget how your 2.5WT will roll off the rim in berms, or the rim will need trueing after every ride. 30mm ID rims dont look so wide on a 2.4 tyre anyway. Since I've been running 30mm ID rims I have hardly had to true a rim, but I dinged my rim so bad without even noticing that I could not get the tire off the rim! It literally pinched it and I had to pry the bead open to get it to release.

 

Tyres and rims cost about the same these days. My new bike will just have RAPIDE TR30 rims, which are for argument sake, trail wheels, but there was very little difference to the Spanks I upgraded to.

 

If I have to replace a R900 back rim once every 1.5 years. I can probably live with it. 

Posted

Yes.. You dont want to go back..

 

You are quick to forget how your 2.5WT will roll off the rim in berms, or the rim will need trueing after every ride. 30mm ID rims dont look so wide on a 2.4 tyre anyway. Since I've been running 30mm ID rims I have hardly had to true a rim, but I dinged my rim so bad without even noticing that I could not get the tire off the rim! It literally pinched it and I had to pry the bead open to get it to release.

 

Tyres and rims cost about the same these days. My new bike will just have RAPIDE TR30 rims, which are for argument sake, trail wheels, but there was very little difference to the Spanks I upgraded to.

 

If I have to replace a R900 back rim once every 1.5 years. I can probably live with it.

Yep I'm on a rim a year, and actually accept it. There's foam inserts there's dh skin tyres there's rattle my spine pressures and then there's trail stoke and bad luck. The last is me

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.... At least that's what o tell myself

Posted

Maybe you need more psi for your, er, bodyweight. I run 35psi and rim dingalings are few and far between. 2.4 dhr on 35mm internal rim, for science.

 I was "running" 33PSI at Jonkers last year and Im (70KG's) for all the rides before the Enduro Nationals, and never had a pinch, only suffered a small ding. 

 

In the beginning it feels a bit hard but one gets use to it. I'd probably prefer that over the 1000g's DD casing and inserts would weight.

 

On EWS Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb_puXicyKo Ric McLaughlin asks the riders what they are running.

 

Pinkbike did a whole spread on DH tire pressures.. If I recall the DH guys were running 25PSI front and 32rear? Thats less than what I run, but I suspect its because they run DH casings and all of them use inserts these days. 

Posted

 I was "running" 33PSI at Jonkers last year and Im (70KG's) for all the rides before the Enduro Nationals, and never had a pinch, only suffered a small ding. 

 

In the beginning it feels a bit hard but one gets use to it. I'd probably prefer that over the 1000g's DD casing and inserts would weight.

 

On EWS Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb_puXicyKo Ric McLaughlin asks the riders what they are running.

 

Pinkbike did a whole spread on DH tire pressures.. If I recall the DH guys were running 25PSI front and 32rear? Thats less than what I run, but I suspect its because they run DH casings and all of them use inserts these days. 

They also go 500 times faster than us, so the tire squirms more and ledges become LEDGES.

 

It's really difficult to look at what a pro is running and make it relate able to hackers like us.

 

The physics change massively with the speed and the sheer size of the things they hit.

 

I run both my tires well under 2 bar / 29psi with no inserts and no DD/DH casings and hardly flat.

 

BUT I'm also bog average.

 

I'm sure my exact lines at 33% faster would yield very different results.

Posted

I was "running" 33PSI at Jonkers last year and Im (70KG's) for all the rides before the Enduro Nationals, and never had a pinch, only suffered a small ding.

 

In the beginning it feels a bit hard but one gets use to it. I'd probably prefer that over the 1000g's DD casing and inserts would weight.

 

On EWS Youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb_puXicyKo Ric McLaughlin asks the riders what they are running.

 

Pinkbike did a whole spread on DH tire pressures.. If I recall the DH guys were running 25PSI front and 32rear? Thats less than what I run, but I suspect its because they run DH casings and all of them use inserts these days.

Enduro field was pretty standard between 23&28 if I remember correctly. There was a tech vid about it.

Posted

Interesting chat this is... I am running my narrow HT rims with 2.4 tyres. Pretty wide and decent volume. Even down to 25psi out back they still work fine, no rolling off the rim and never any air loss due to burping. This really does go against the wider is better argument and part of my motivation for looking at a narrower, say 25mm rear rim.

 

You do get used to harder tyres but both my bikes feel better at slightly lower pressures especially out back.

 

Yes, the HT is riddeen with greater care and in general the speeds are slower, although it can even be faster in the right terrain.

 

Im going to carry on playing and see where this leads..

Posted

I am not really an enduro rider and run my tyres just under 2bar, normal tubeless BUT it is irritating when you hammer through a rocky section only to exit with a sad wheeze as the last of the air puffs out of the tyre. Investigation (re-inflating) shows that the bead or just near it is damaged and tyre is junk.  2 or 3 like this; Grrrr.

 

Last one was a week ago, quite new (fitted in August 2019) Continental XKing 2.4 junked over a few rocks. Now trying on new but been "in stock" for some time Rock Razor; 1kg of rubber beef, I hope.

Posted

Yep I'm on a rim a year, and actually accept it. There's foam inserts there's dh skin tyres there's rattle my spine pressures and then there's trail stoke and bad luck. The last is me

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.... At least that's what o tell myself

Aren't you already on one taco for the year, and it's only Januworry...?

Posted

Tyres and rims cost about the same these days. My new bike will just have RAPIDE TR30 rims, which are for argument sake, trail wheels, but there was very little difference to the Spanks I upgraded to.

 

If I have to replace a R900 back rim once every 1.5 years. I can probably live with it.

I've just rebuilt my back wheel with a Rapide rim. Took the time to learn how to do it myself, so I agree with you.

Posted

They also go 500 times faster than us, so the tire squirms more and ledges become LEDGES.

 

It's really difficult to look at what a pro is running and make it relate able to hackers like us.

 

The physics change massively with the speed and the sheer size of the things they hit.

 

I run both my tires well under 2 bar / 29psi with no inserts and no DD/DH casings and hardly flat.

 

BUT I'm also bog average.

 

I'm sure my exact lines at 33% faster would yield very different results.

 

That was kind of my point.. If I'm running my rear tyre 33PSI but the DH kings are running less than me, the Casings and inserts makes a bigger difference then what I'm giving it credit for?

 

Perhaps worthwhile getting the DD casing on the rear (AGGRESSOR) since it doesn't seem to exist in EXO+ yet?

 

No Question about it though, 28 PSI feels much nicer then 32PSI.. I'd probably run 28 if I had DH casings, but I am trying to keep my bike as light as possible. 

Posted

sorry to say, there is a trade off between lower pressure vs higher pressures. One is not better than the other. You have to sacrifice rigidity in lower pressure with greater chance of dings. Or some grip with higher pressure and extremely less chance of dings.

 

In the 4x4 world, we use very low pressure 0.8bar for deep sand driving. Gravel roads is 10% off your normal pressure.

 

I run high pressure, now again I just so happen to have a sweet spot and sometimes soft enough where the rim dings. Finding the right balance between hard and soft id what ill work. Non of my rear wheels are below 2 bar. The front is currently at 0.9 bar. I have the wtb tough casing and a foamo in the rear. It has save me numerous times and even allowed me to pedal back slowly without tyre damage.

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