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Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo


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mm.. This makes most sense.. that the shaft is a Yari 150. I opened the fork up, I'm well aware of the neg chamber sucking it in etc.. you just grab the fork by the lowers, put your foot under the crown and pull, as soon as the fork passed the dimple it will suck the blockage out. 

 

Hence my question. Since there is no indication, on the shaft itself, of what the travel is. it just says 080.. and thats it. 

 

Anyway. I might get a 160. hope it gives me 150mm. which my frame is built for. Otherwise the BB height & HA starts getting out of whack. 

have you sent it to the SRAM boys and girls in CT, or only you and your LBS looked at the fork?

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mm.. This makes most sense.. that the shaft is a Yari 150. I opened the fork up, I'm well aware of the neg chamber sucking it in etc.. you just grab the fork by the lowers, put your foot under the crown and pull, as soon as the fork passed the dimple it will suck the blockage out. 

 

Hence my question. Since there is no indication, on the shaft itself, of what the travel is. it just says 080.. and thats it. 

 

Anyway. I might get a 160. hope it gives me 150mm. which my frame is built for. Otherwise the BB height & HA starts getting out of whack. 

I'm pretty sure a Yari 150mm air spring will be a 140mm Pike air spring. The Yari 150 is usually engraved on one side and the Pike 29 and Pike 27 on the other.

 

A Pike 140..... I know a guy who has been patiently keeping one for me for 6 months.....

 

post-45765-0-93170000-1582292274_thumb.jpg

 

post-45765-0-95248800-1582292290.jpg

 

I found some pitchaaaas

Edited by Jewbacca
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Not sure if this is applicable but I had a fork that sunk into its travel. The reason was that the positive and negative airspring did not equalize properly. There is a little air channel that is responsible for equalizing. You might also be losing air between the two chambers due to poor sealing. Check if everything in the air-spring side is completely clean. Fork Grease like SRAM butter can block these airways.

It's the simplest solution.. your negative air spring is overpowering the main spring a bit. All forks sit a bit lower in their travel because of this. If there is a fault with the bypass orifice it will need to be checked out but chances are theres nothing wrong.

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To all the Hubbers with Rock Shox Pike/revelation forks 2018+... does your fork travel match the exposed stanchion area?

 

Its a long story but I bought a fork thats suppose to be 150mm and it only shows 142mm exposed stanchion area. According to all sources I have called on this far its the right airspring but I cant imagine, RockShox would make a fork that uses a larger negative air chamber, which therefore sits 10mm into its travel(in essence its negative travel) and still call it a 150mm (10mm negative spring +140 positive)..anyway.

 

So If a 150 pike measures 140mm, I need a 160mm debonairspring.

Is the Damper side not limiting the travel on that fork? ie it's not extending to the full length the 150mm airspring allows because the Damper shaft can't extend anymore? Edited by PhilipV
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It's the simplest solution.. your negative air spring is overpowering the main spring a bit. All forks sit a bit lower in their travel because of this. If there is a fault with the bypass orifice it will need to be checked out but chances are theres nothing wrong.

 If I pull the lowers out, I get another 5mm, but why would Rockshox suddenly start including the negative spring in the suggested travel.. I have had all types of RS forks and its never been an issue, I know what you mean, but Its not the issue here.(Solo air/dual air/dual position air)

 

Is the Damper side not limiting the travel on that fork? ie it's not extending to the full length the 150mm airspring allows because the Damper shaft can't extend anymore?

 

The damper is supposed to be able to handle up to 160.. and is longer than the airshaft, so not that one either. 

 

Which to my initial question. Those with 2018+ Debonair Pike/Rev boost 27.5/29 forks, does the suggested travel match the exposed stanchion or is it slightly short, because I think someone is giving me the wrong answer. Unfortunately the only way I'm going to get my answer is if someone with the same fork can pull the lowers and check how long a 150mm airspring really is or take it to drew. 

 

Anyway, I hope Drew has a 150mm fork or airspring lying around so I can compare it, I'm planning on making a turn there Monday

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  • 4 months later...

My big bike shock started making sucky noises so it went in to Stoke for a service. Aside from the noise, the compression damping had failed so it was well overdo for an overhaul. It came back and the difference was massive. Only disappointment was that after 120km the thing developed a weird noise and seemed to be sticking as it passed a point near sag. In it went again to be returned a day later. A seal had popped. Been experimenting with air pressure and running around 30% sag now. Bike seems to have hit a sweet spot with pedaling efficiency and support. As soon as funds permit I will get a 50mm rise bar to bring the font up a tad and add a 200mm dropper post. 

 

With Tokai still only open if you ride a very long way around as the "manned" gate remains locked and unmanned, riding in the South burbs has been limited to the green belts, and Cecilia to Newlands forest route. Planning on trying out the new single track below the 12 Apostles shortly however.

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My big bike shock started making sucky noises so it went in to Stoke for a service. Aside from the noise, the compression damping had failed so it was well overdo for an overhaul. It came back and the difference was massive. Only disappointment was that after 120km the thing developed a weird noise and seemed to be sticking as it passed a point near sag. In it went again to be returned a day later. A seal had popped. Been experimenting with air pressure and running around 30% sag now. Bike seems to have hit a sweet spot with pedaling efficiency and support. As soon as funds permit I will get a 50mm rise bar to bring the font up a tad and add a 200mm dropper post. 

 

With Tokai still only open if you ride a very long way around as the "manned" gate remains locked and unmanned, riding in the South burbs has been limited to the green belts, and Cecilia to Newlands forest route. Planning on trying out the new single track below the 12 Apostles shortly however.

Don't forget the multitude of trails on Devils side, front of TM and Signal Hill too bra :)

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My big bike shock started making sucky noises so it went in to Stoke for a service. Aside from the noise, the compression damping had failed so it was well overdo for an overhaul. It came back and the difference was massive. Only disappointment was that after 120km the thing developed a weird noise and seemed to be sticking as it passed a point near sag. In it went again to be returned a day later. A seal had popped. Been experimenting with air pressure and running around 30% sag now. Bike seems to have hit a sweet spot with pedaling efficiency and support. As soon as funds permit I will get a 50mm rise bar to bring the font up a tad and add a 200mm dropper post. 

 

Is there any reason why tokaimtb cant provide a manned service of the gate? And probably only over weekends. Would be a treat if they could

 

With Tokai still only open if you ride a very long way around as the "manned" gate remains locked and unmanned, riding in the South burbs has been limited to the green belts, and Cecilia to Newlands forest route. Planning on trying out the new single track below the 12 Apostles shortly however.

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I need to vent.

 

I've always had good service from my suspension products. A couple of Fox forks, a RS Reba, a Pike and now a Yari. The only rear shocks I had before the Monarch on my current enduro were Fox and they never gave any hassles whatsoever.

 

Enter the Monarch Plus RCShite ... A 2.5 year old  otherwise perfect shock has been rendered useless by a manufacturing or QC issue. A hairline - more like spider web fine crack, formed near the end of the damper shaft where it threads into the head of the shock where the adjusters are. Its almost impossible to see  but is enough to cause high pressure oil to vacate the damper while riding, rendering the shock pretty much useless after a few rides. This kind of failure should not happen of course, but on good authority I know this is not uncommon with these shocks. Frustrating enough you'll agree but there's more. RS do not supply spare damper shafts. Nowhere on planet earth in fact.  And the warranty has expired. The shock is now only good for spares...my bike is now an ornament.

 

Thank goodness I have a HT to ride while I try and sort this sh#t out. 

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