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Pyga Mobu


Ke_Malose

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Yeah, those are extrapolated weights and not really comparable IMO. Especially since Pyga have yet to announce an official weight on the production frameset.  All the Fuel's I've seen on the scale were around the 14kg mark. I've yet to hear of a MoBu build over 11kg, but there aren't exactly a whole lot to weigh at the moment...

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Yeah, those are extrapolated weights and not really comparable IMO. Especially since Pyga have yet to announce an official weight on the production frameset.  All the Fuel's I've seen on the scale were around the 14kg mark. I've yet to hear of a MoBu build over 11kg, but there aren't exactly a whole lot to weigh at the moment...

I have the 2018 fuel ex 9.8 and its 13.4kg with pedals and sealant.  

 

 

Look i just posted the weights as i was asked where i got the numbers from.  As we know modern day bikes are actually heavier but ride lighter if that makes sense.  But it all depends on set up.  Is it set up for XC or Trail/enduro.

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I don't see the point in building a down country bike then trying to drop weight?

 

If you're building it as a down country bike, you are already forgoing any massive performance in 'race' ability with a burly fork, dropper etc...

 

That's 1kg right there pretty much off the bat and as said above, the geo makes it efficient, so while you're not building it to race, does the extra fat actually matter from a performance point of view?

 

If it did surely you would build it as a race bike?

 

I'm not sure if my post explains my point. As you were... grumble grumble

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think your post is spot on, you're either building a race bike where every gram counts, and parts failing is not your biggest concern... as you either a serious racer or sponsored... or you a joe from the street, that wants multi use, and dependability where the last gram is not that critical to you....

 

G

 

I don't see the point in building a down country bike then trying to drop weight?

 

If you're building it as a down country bike, you are already forgoing any massive performance in 'race' ability with a burly fork, dropper etc...

 

That's 1kg right there pretty much off the bat and as said above, the geo makes it efficient, so while you're not building it to race, does the extra fat actually matter from a performance point of view?

 

If it did surely you would build it as a race bike?

 

I'm not sure if my post explains my point. As you were... grumble grumble

Edited by awesme
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think your post is spot on, you're either building a race bike where every gram counts, and parts filing is not your biggest concern... as you either a serious races or sponsored... or you a joe from the street, that wants multi use, and dependability where the last gram is not that critical to you....

 

G

Thank you... Exactly.

 

So I'm not mad!

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think your post is spot on, you're either building a race bike where every gram counts, and parts failing is not your biggest concern... as you either a serious racer or sponsored... or you a joe from the street, that wants multi use, and dependability where the last gram is not that critical to you....

 

G

or you have no intention of racing because its hard and you're crap but you have a problem and have to make a bike you don't need and can't really afford be as light and bling as possible so you can post it on forums for 5 people to like

 

All this whilst eating nougat and choccies and drinking your (very nice) Covid19 ipa you home brewed getting chunkier but still wondering if someone makes lighter Ti bottle cage screws.

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or you have no intention of racing because its hard and you're crap but you have a problem and have to make a bike you don't need and can't really afford be as light and bling as possible so you can post it on forums for 5 people to like

 

All this whilst eating nougat and choccies and drinking your (very nice) Covid19 ipa you home brewed getting chunkier but still wondering if someone makes lighter Ti bottle cage screws.

A big part of the enjoyment I get from cycling is from building a nice bike and nerding out on bike parts. So I get your obession!

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All this whilst eating nougat and choccies and drinking your (very nice) Covid19 ipa you home brewed getting chunkier but still wondering if someone makes lighter Ti bottle cage screws.

You have to offset the weight gain somehow obviously. And if you can shave off 1g that means you can have one bite more chocolate...

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or you have no intention of racing because its hard and you're crap but you have a problem and have to make a bike you don't need and can't really afford be as light and bling as possible so you can post it on forums for 5 people to like

 

All this whilst eating nougat and choccies and drinking your (very nice) Covid19 ipa you home brewed getting chunkier but still wondering if someone makes lighter Ti bottle cage screws.

lmfao ???????? brilliant. I am completely obsessive when building a new ride...which I do way to often ???? ...I love building new bikes am busy with one now ????
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I don't see the point in building a down country bike then trying to drop weight?

 

If you're building it as a down country bike, you are already forgoing any massive performance in 'race' ability with a burly fork, dropper etc...

 

That's 1kg right there pretty much off the bat and as said above, the geo makes it efficient, so while you're not building it to race, does the extra fat actually matter from a performance point of view?

 

If it did surely you would build it as a race bike?

 

I'm not sure if my post explains my point. As you were... grumble grumble

I'm not so sure. Personally, when I went from my old bike to my new bike (both trail bikes), the build weight was around 2kg lighter. It certainly makes a noticeable difference to me when riding. That said, i dropped 8kg of body weight in the last 12 months, and that makes a FAR bigger difference, especially on the ups.

Edited by GrahamS2
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... ye but in the end you're building a weight wheenie bike because it's you wanting to, just because... and you know why you did it.

 

I've just seen to many people wanting and doing... build one, and then cry when things don't last and cost 2arms and a kidney to replace, not thinking, you build a top of the line bike, that is not designed to last 10 000km, but rather 1000 as fast as possible,

 

in the end anyone can do what he wants, just know what you doing and why.

 

G

 

As per: (this is the signature on my personal emails.

 

You have the obligation to inform one honestly of the risk, and as a person

you are committed to educate yourself to the total risk in any activity!

Once informed & totally aware of the risk,
every fool has the right to kill or injure themselves as they see fit!

 

 

 

 

or you have no intention of racing because its hard and you're crap but you have a problem and have to make a bike you don't need and can't really afford be as light and bling as possible so you can post it on forums for 5 people to like

 

All this whilst eating nougat and choccies and drinking your (very nice) Covid19 ipa you home brewed getting chunkier but still wondering if someone makes lighter Ti bottle cage screws.

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ditto... every part on my bikes are there by choice, by conscious decision, nothing just happened to get on them.

 

G

 

A big part of the enjoyment I get from cycling is from building a nice bike and nerding out on bike parts. So I get your obession!

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ditto... every part on my bikes are there by choice, by conscious decision, nothing just happened to get on them.

 

G

Like you nothing gets on by accident - I would never put something on that I didn’t think would last except for me - just because it’s lighter doesn’t mean it’s weaker

 

I do know what you mean though, people have to have realistic expectations

 

Funny I am not always this nuts about weight - just certain projects. My road bikes are mostly steel, my gravel bike is about quality and comfort

 

Every now and then something sets me off

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