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Posted

So having crap weather the weekend, it was a good time to service the road bike and true the wheels again.  Much to my surprise I found this on my rear wheel.

 

post-71-0-91642800-1598861820_thumb.jpg

post-71-0-04995000-1598861839_thumb.jpg

 

It is the DT Swiss PR1600 rims that came with the Canyon as I bought it and yes we are over the 24month warranty period that according to the DT  Swiss website they give to all there products.

 

Well to be fair, these rims already clocked about 14 000 km but I have never had this happen ever on any of my alu rims.  Could this just be normal wear and tear or could this be a manufacturing problem and if possible how could I avoid it.  I ask these questions as I need to decide with what I replace this rim.  The same brand and type or should I look at something else.  Other than this these wheels were absolutely a joy to ride.

 

Oh the weight limit on the wheels according to the DT Swiss website is 120 kg and I am clocking in at 90kg so don't think that was cause.  And there was no event that I recall where I hit something (like a pothole or similar) that could have caused this.

Posted

How often do you 'true' the wheels?

 

When you do, do you loosen everything to thread height and start again from scratch?

 

Alu wheels do fail like this unfortunately. It's not uncommon. The MTB guys who own/owned Stans rims deal with nipples pulling through often.

 

It could be overtensioned spokes or it could be general fatigue and a small bump at speed.

 

But ja, It's toast

Posted

How often do you 'true' the wheels?

 

When you do, do you loosen everything to thread height and start again from scratch?

 

Alu wheels do fail like this unfortunately. It's not uncommon. The MTB guys who own/owned Stans rims deal with nipples pulling through often.

 

It could be overtensioned spokes or it could be general fatigue and a small bump at speed.

 

But ja, It's toast

 

I hardly ever had to true the wheels.  Only replaced 1 spoke on the front wheel once and two spokes on the back.  The spoke has not been replaced where this crack came though.

Posted

I hardly ever had to true the wheels.  Only replaced 1 spoke on the front wheel once and two spokes on the back.  The spoke has not been replaced where this crack came though.

Ah ok.. I just know of some guys who meticulously true their wheels but don't release the tension before doing so. This will result in massively over tensioned wheels that either taco or pull the nipples through the rim.

 

That sucks, I'm sorry. Failures are rubbish and just throw unwanted spanners

Posted

Dan sou die raam onder my dik gat gekraak het  :whistling:

Ja maar Cannondale maak net 'n kraak GERAAS........hy kraak nie rerig nie.

 

Heheheheh.

 

Daai rim kan jy maar weg gooi.  Of maak 'n mooi muur horlosie.......julle Duitsers is mos slim met die goed.

En dan smeek jy mamma om vir jou mooi mooi stelletjie carbons te koop.  

Enige rede vir nuwe wiele is mos 'n goed genoeg rede.   :thumbup:  :clap:

Posted

Ja maar Cannondale maak net 'n kraak GERAAS........hy kraak nie rerig nie.

 

Heheheheh.

 

Daai rim kan jy maar weg gooi.  Of maak 'n mooi muur horlosie.......julle Duitsers is mos slim met die goed.

En dan smeek jy mamma om vir jou mooi mooi stelletjie carbons te koop.  

Enige rede vir nuwe wiele is mos 'n goed genoeg rede.   :thumbup:  :clap:

 

My gat jik al lank al vir deep section carbons.  My vraag hou carbon rims ook langer as alu rims?  Dit is beslis die geval by die rame met my so.

Posted

My mate was stopped at a traffic light..(gasp!) and as he took off, so did his rim! Huge explosion....3.5 Bar with 2.3" tyre....

 

Therein lies the problem - 3.5bar?!?!  :eek:

Posted

Therein lies the problem - 3.5bar?!?!  :eek:

I thought so too but the tyre is recommended up to 3.4bar...I'm betting on rim fatigue and if you look at the ally nipples they are corroded as hell...it appears water may have gotten into the rim void and the nipple holes are cracked on the inside...combined with the slight over pressure...Kablaamm...scary!

Posted

Ah ok.. I just know of some guys who meticulously true their wheels but don't release the tension before doing so. This will result in massively over tensioned wheels that either taco or pull the nipples through the rim.

 

That sucks, I'm sorry. Failures are rubbish and just throw unwanted spanners

Can you expand on the correct process please?

I never knew you had to release tension on all the spokes before truing, none of the wheel truing how to's I've read ever mentioned that.

 

Though I did always wonder how the winding up and tensioning of the spokes would work out over the life of a wheel.

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