MarcHD Posted April 29, 2021 Author Posted April 29, 2021 Hi MarcI have a set of 350 hubs with a microspline free hub. The other day I noticed that when the wheel is removed there is axial play on the free hub. Once the wheel is clamped in place this stops as the end cap is pushed tight. Is this normal? Thanks. Hi there! Yes, it is perfectly normal for there to be a small amount of axial play, particularly on the 350 models, and is nothing to worry about. This axial play is roughly 1mm, maybe 2mm at most. Hope this helps
MarcHD Posted April 29, 2021 Author Posted April 29, 2021 Great stuff......what happened to one of the most knowledgeable & experienced wheel builders in Africa....Doug Patterson ? Sure you guy can get him to assist. #getdougback #dtswiss Can't say I have had the pleasure of meeting Doug Patterson, perhaps he is fully retired now?
Knersboy Posted April 29, 2021 Posted April 29, 2021 Hi there! Yes, it is perfectly normal for there to be a small amount of axial play, particularly on the 350 models, and is nothing to worry about. This axial play is roughly 1mm, maybe 2mm at most. Hope this helpsThanks Marc, thought as much but it is good to have confirmation MarcHD 1
StevJam Posted April 29, 2021 Posted April 29, 2021 Can't say I have had the pleasure of meeting Doug Patterson, perhaps he is fully retired now?Nope....actually still doing some work for selected JHB based stores.....you guys need to get hold of Doug Patterson. MarcHD 1
N1NO Posted April 29, 2021 Posted April 29, 2021 Hey there! I’m a cross country racer and I’m buying a Scott spark end of this year... I’m not anywhere close to an expert on components so what’s the best hub and wheel setup I can get? I want a light pair but I’m hard on my wheels too. (I want 30mm rims and carbon wheels)... that’s about all I know. I’m not going with original parts in the Scott, gonna do a custom build. Can you help?
MarcHD Posted April 29, 2021 Author Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) Hey there! I’m a cross country racer and I’m buying a Scott spark end of this year... I’m not anywhere close to an expert on components so what’s the best hub and wheel setup I can get? I want a light pair but I’m hard on my wheels too. (I want 30mm rims and carbon wheels)... that’s about all I know. I’m not going with original parts in the Scott, gonna do a custom build. Can you help? Hi Joshua, Thanks for your interest and for reaching out to us. We currently do stock a DT Swiss wheelset that exactly meets your requirements in the form of the XRC 1200 wheels. These use carbon 30mm rims laced to DT's top of the range 180 model hub and are what Nino Schurter used to win multiple world cup races. They also come with a lifetime warranty and crash replacement policy. You can find out more about these wheels on our direct to consumer portal here where we are currently doing a special on them:https://getstokedonline.co.za/product/dt-swiss-xrc-1200-spline-29er-wheelset/ Alternatively, if these wheels aren't for you, we can gladly get in touch with your dealer with whom you are purchasing your new Scott and discuss options with them to help get exactly what you are after. Hope this helps Edited April 29, 2021 by MarcHD Hairy and DieselnDust 2
DieselnDust Posted April 29, 2021 Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) not wanting to open a can of worms here but this is why I like DT Swiss as a brand. They can be stubborn at times but when they faux pas they own it: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/ratchet-exp-maintenance-notice PS: <Marc, any chance of convincing DTSwiss to update the Dt 240 Lefty hub to a 60mm between flanges i.e a modern version instead of 50mm....? Edited April 29, 2021 by DieselnDust
MarcHD Posted April 29, 2021 Author Posted April 29, 2021 I'm sure if Joshua [or any DT clients] run into problems we will sort them out in our industry leading turn around times DieselnDust and Mongoose! 2
Mongoose! Posted April 29, 2021 Posted April 29, 2021 Hi.I have changed the freehub of my c 360 hub from XD to normal Shimano freebody. (Sram cassettes are just too expensive...lol) I used a thin ordinary grease between the two ratchets and not the DT recommended grease. Can this cause harm or damage to the hub? MarcHD 1
MarcHD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Posted April 30, 2021 Hi.I have changed the freehub of my c 360 hub from XD to normal Shimano freebody. (Sram cassettes are just too expensive...lol) I used a thin ordinary grease between the two ratchets and not the DT recommended grease. Can this cause harm or damage to the hub? Hi there, It is imperative that DT's special grease always be used in the servicing of Star Ratchet, Ratchet EXP and Ratchet LN systems. It is important to note that in the event that your ratchets suffered a premature malfunction, DT Swiss would not cover this malfunction under warranty. Our suggestion is to source the special grease from your LBS or through our recently updated B2C portal and replace the standard grease with this special grease immediately to avoid any potential issues. You can find the special grease on our site here:https://getstokedonline.co.za/product/dt-swiss-special-grease-for-ratchet-system-hubs-20g/ Alternatively I get hold of your preferred LBS and send the product to them directly for you. Regards, Mongoose! 1
Hairy Posted April 30, 2021 Posted April 30, 2021 Hi there, It is imperative that DT's special grease always be used in the servicing of Star Ratchet, Ratchet EXP and Ratchet LN systems. It is important to note that in the event that your ratchets suffered a premature malfunction, DT Swiss would not cover this malfunction under warranty. Our suggestion is to source the special grease from your LBS or through our recently updated B2C portal and replace the standard grease with this special grease immediately to avoid any potential issues. You can find the special grease on our site here:https://getstokedonline.co.za/product/dt-swiss-special-grease-for-ratchet-system-hubs-20g/ Alternatively I get hold of your preferred LBS and send the product to them directly for you. Regards,Out of interest Marc, what makes this grease so special?
MarcHD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Posted April 30, 2021 Out of interest Marc, what makes this grease so special? It's a Molykote grease with mineral content that differs from standard grease in order to withstand high temperatures, and in more severe conditions. It runs less viscous than standard grease and lasts longer Hairy 1
DieselnDust Posted April 30, 2021 Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) R330 for 25gr of lube... OK it's expensive and now I know why. Dow Corning!! Edited April 30, 2021 by DieselnDust
MarcHD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) Hi all, The below was a post made recently by us on another Bikehub forum in relation to an ongoing issue the community was having with rim/wheel breakages at nipple/spoke holes (Don't worry it wasn't with regards to DT Swiss products!) As much of this info might be of interest and/or use to our DT Swiss community, please feel free to go through the info below... Let us know if you feel we left anything out! "There are a number of causes for rims failing prematurely, many of which are intermarried. Hopefully we can shed some light on this below... 1. Spoke tension.Even the strongest rims in the world will eventually crack at the spoke/nipple holes if the spoke tension is not optimal.This is due to the amount of flex spokes undergo in a typical ride as the loads change on the wheel. As an example: when cornering the spokes on the lower half of the wheel will have a reduced load, causing them to slacken a bit, while the opposite is true of spokes at the top half of the wheel. If the tensions are below optimal this slackening with load changes will be increased of course, and over time this constant tugging on the nipple will pull it through the rim. The lower the tension, the harder the tugging. 2. Intended use and Weight limit (ASTM classifications)This part is often overlooked, but it incredibly important. All manufacturers have a very specific target market for which they intend a specific rim (or any product) to be used for. If, for example, you are using a product outside of this intended use and/or weight limit, a brand is well within their rights to deny any warranty for premature wear or breakages. 3. Correct tools and best practices. This ties in somewhat with point 1. but it should stand to reason that a self proclaimed wheel builder should use certain techniques and tools as a MINIMUM requirement. This includes things like a spoke tension meter, spoke prep/nipple thread lock, destressing the wheel during builds, correct lacing methods (yes there is a correct way and wrong way) and any parts specifically required by the manufacturer. For example: DT Swiss rims using thin wall technology require the use of PHR washers and matching nipples as the rims have been carefully engineered to pair with these specific nipples. 4. Fair use/abusing products.Again, this ties in a lot with point 2 and shouldn't need to be touched on really, but if you are using an XC rim to huck road gaps.... do not expect them to last! 5. Spoke choice. Also largely overlooked. "A spoke is a spoke" Is not something you ideally want to hear from your wheelbuilder. Spokes vary hugely in their quality and their intended use! A thin spoke might save you some grams, but it will not be able to be tensioned to the same loads as a thicker spoke and as we mentioned above, this lower tension will cause more flex in the spoke and possibly expedite the premature breakage of rim/spoke/nipple. Further to this, not all spoke are created equal, and while most of the time you will probably not notice (or care) about the difference in spokes, the reality is the quality control and manufacturing techniques vary greatly from brands and a premium spoke will certainly outlast an inferior one 6. Spoke lengths Again, sometimes overlooked. Although thankfully most wheelbuilders understand this concept very well. The length of the spokes need to be as close to perfect as possible. It's a widely accepted practice for dealers and distributors to only carry even length spokes (carrying the odd ones as well would cost a fortune) and there is nothing wrong with this as long as the spokes are within an accepted tolerance for the given nipple choice. Example: if a spoke calculator indicates an exact spoke length being 295.5mm it is perfectly acceptable to upsize the spoke to 296mm ONLY if a rear drive nipple is being used. Alternatively if a standard nipple is being used a downsizing may be required. However as is the case in this specific example, it's not likely a store will carry a 295mm spoke. It is not best practice to downsize to 294 as this is a difference of 1.5mm and may cause the nipple to be compromised in strength as the spoke thread is not perfectly mated with the nipple thread. In this case opting for rear drive nipples, even at the greater initial (and unexpected) cost as it will very likely save you lots more money in the long run! " Edited April 30, 2021 by MarcHD ChrisF 1
MarcHD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Posted April 30, 2021 R330 for 25gr of lube... Lifetime supply DieselnDust 1
Mongoose! Posted April 30, 2021 Posted April 30, 2021 Hi there, It is imperative that DT's special grease always be used in the servicing of Star Ratchet, Ratchet EXP and Ratchet LN systems. It is important to note that in the event that your ratchets suffered a premature malfunction, DT Swiss would not cover this malfunction under warranty. Our suggestion is to source the special grease from your LBS or through our recently updated B2C portal and replace the standard grease with this special grease immediately to avoid any potential issues. You can find the special grease on our site here:https://getstokedonline.co.za/product/dt-swiss-special-grease-for-ratchet-system-hubs-20g/ Alternatively I get hold of your preferred LBS and send the product to them directly for you. Regards, Thanks MarcHD 1
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