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Posted

One difference that I have noticed with the 12 speed SLX and XT derailleurs is that there is an access port to adjust the tension of the clutch on the XT derailleur, but there is no access port on the SLX derailleur. They are the exact same clutch mechanism, but to tighten the clutch on the SLX derailleur you have to unscrew and remove the plastic housing. 

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Posted (edited)

It is worthwhile to service the clutch, I had issues with mine after some moisture ingress which dried out the mechanism after standing during lockdown. 
Takes a while but if you're mechanically inclined its easy enough to do yourself. 
I cleaned everything thoroughly and wiped down with silicone oil, reassembled and packed with a liberal amount of marine grease. 

 

Thus far not a single issue.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Danger Dassie
Posted

I did a little reverse engineering last night.

 

I found that be switching the cam around you can configure the clutch to engage when the lever is in the off position. Running it this way may help to prevent trail vibrations from dislodging the lever.

 

Interesting experiment to see if it will work.

Posted

SRAM doesn't have a selectable clutch and works very well. Why does Shimano have this feature? Does it add any real value when compared to the SRAM setup? Not that I have discovered but others may have different views?

Posted

SRAM doesn't have a selectable clutch and works very well. Why does Shimano have this feature? Does it add any real value when compared to the SRAM setup? Not that I have discovered but others may have different views?

Sram does

 

It isn't adjustable by the user externally and can't be switched off

 

 

The clutch keeps more constant tension on the chain and prevents the cage and chain from flying all over while you're negotiating uneven terrain at high speed

Posted

SRAM doesn't have a selectable clutch and works very well. Why does Shimano have this feature? Does it add any real value when compared to the SRAM setup? Not that I have discovered but others may have different views?

 

The lock-pin on the Sram is much easier to use, and also idiot proof .... no way of forgetting it in the off position.

 

 

And even with the Shimano clutch in the off position it is still so much easier to remove a wheel with the Sram lock-pin method.

 

 

And I am on record as not being a Sram fan ..... but this one item they certainly got right

Posted

The lock-pin on the Sram is much easier to use, and also idiot proof .... no way of forgetting it in the off position.

 

 

And even with the Shimano clutch in the off position it is still so much easier to remove a wheel with the Sram lock-pin method.

 

 

And I am on record as not being a Sram fan ..... but this one item they certainly got right

I saw a school kid who could not get the sram lock pin engaged (or didn't understand why it was necessary) to get chain out from between the frame and cassette after a crash at nationals. I wasn't allowed to help her, so had to stand outside the tape, calm her down, tell her what to do and guide her through it.

For a young lady, rattled after a crash watching her lead ride away, that sram clutch was too stiff, she had to use two hands. A shimano lever would have made her life so much easier.

Posted

I saw a school kid who could not get the sram lock pin engaged (or didn't understand why it was necessary) to get chain out from between the frame and cassette after a crash at nationals. I wasn't allowed to help her, so had to stand outside the tape, calm her down, tell her what to do and guide her through it.

For a young lady, rattled after a crash watching her lead ride away, that sram clutch was too stiff, she had to use two hands. A shimano lever would have made her life so much easier.

I’m more inclined to blame a coach / mechanic for not teaching her how to do basics like this out on the course.

Posted

I saw a school kid who could not get the sram lock pin engaged (or didn't understand why it was necessary) to get chain out from between the frame and cassette after a crash at nationals. I wasn't allowed to help her, so had to stand outside the tape, calm her down, tell her what to do and guide her through it.

For a young lady, rattled after a crash watching her lead ride away, that sram clutch was too stiff, she had to use two hands. A shimano lever would have made her life so much easier.

 

Very interesting observation.

 

In the primary school division of the SPUR MTB league I have seen some interesting stuff as well ...  After an accident the kids get very rattled, and often need assistance.

 

The most stupid "application of rules" I have seen was a 6 year old that had a tumble at the start.  By the time he picked up his bike he was tone cold LAST .... the chain had fallen off the front ring .... NOPE, officials would not allow any of the spectators to help the kid !  He had to push the bike about 100m to the assistance zone for his school representatives to help him.

 

Okay, I have also seen people helping riders and then hindering riders passing the scene, so I understand the reason for the rules ... but somehow the image of that kid pushing his bike with tears running down his face got engrained in my mind ..... and no, I have no idea who he was or even from what school.

 

 

Oops, sorry way off topic ..... but your point is noted

Posted

SRAM doesn't have a selectable clutch and works very well. Why does Shimano have this feature? Does it add any real value when compared to the SRAM setup? Not that I have discovered but others may have different views?

 

 

SRAM did have an adjustable clutch but Shimano sued them for patent infringement in that the clutch was user adjustable through tightening a screw. SRAM had to change the design to prevent the user from being able to turn the screw hence we have Type 3.0.

 

Defend your patents all you want but then at least build a better product product Shimano.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

It is worthwhile to service the clutch, I had issues with mine after some moisture ingress which dried out the mechanism after standing during lockdown. 

Takes a while but if you're mechanically inclined its easy enough to do yourself. 

I cleaned everything thoroughly and wiped down with silicone oil, reassembled and packed with a liberal amount of marine grease. 

 

Thus far not a single issue.

 

 

 

 

 

THANK YOU for these video links.

 

During this mornings ride my bike started "scratching" in the two big gears ...  :wacko:

 

Got home and checked the indexing, B-screw, barrel bolt, etc .....  And then I felt the shifter going stiff when shifting to the last two gears .....

 

 

Released the clutch, and shifting was smooth.

 

 

I probably spent more time searching for this thread, than it took to open the clutch, remove it, clean it, grease it, and to put it all back.  Shifting on the workshop stand is now butter smooth, even with the clutch engaged.

 

post-110956-0-82375500-1608301722_thumb.jpg

 

With the clutch cover removed, the unit was clean, and no water ingress.  When I removed the clutch it was evident that the grease had been pushed out to the back, and the clutch working surface was "dry" ....

 

post-110956-0-90705900-1608301741_thumb.jpg

 

Some Shimano grease, and it really feels good ... now to go test it on the trails.

Posted

I built a slx 7100 groupset onto a bike two or so weeks ago and even while sizing the chain i coukd feel the clutch wasn't set right. So i opened it up and immediately saw the lameass oring in there compared to the stuff they put in the 10 spd derailleurs.

 

Im borrowing the pic above:

 

I replaced that oring with something a bit thicker that stood more proud so that when the cap is screwed down...there is a proper seal. That flimsy thing doesn't seal ****. I used an oring out of one of those kits, dont ask me what size..i just eyeballed it. It was a faf (shape) but it went in eventually.

post-64325-0-00147800-1608306101_thumb.jpeg

Posted (edited)

This may well explain why some experience a stiff shifter, while others dont ... just a matter of how much grease is left in the clutch setup between the wheel and the outer plate.

 

EDIT - post edited as per the technical post by Morne in the next post.  Thanks Morne

Edited by ChrisF

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