DieselnDust Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 just clean the battery interface with electrical circuit board cleaner (iso Propyl alcohol) and apply a smear of silicone grease to the interface and fit the red cover to the component side of the battery interface. The springs won't last forever but this will keep corrosion at bay and provide some barrier protection in fine grit ingress. betaboy 1
betaboy Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 This pin issue is a common problem, I’ve found if you take a little a piece of material and put it on the battery locking hatch, it draws the battery much closer onto the pin when you lock it into position without needing to do electrical dentistry. Also the smallest micro drop of fine oil on a sewing needle eases up the pin. So far this has saved me and my wallet from further financial injury! Daniel de V and DieselnDust 2
Leon Lotter Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 I spray MO94 directly on the pins and push them down a few time to make sure they get lubricated/remove any moisture to prevent rust. 3500km on and still fine for now… DieselnDust and betaboy 1 1
DieselnDust Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 2 hours ago, Leon Lotter said: I spray MO94 directly on the pins and push them down a few time to make sure they get lubricated/remove any moisture to prevent rust. 3500km on and still fine for now… I think that stuff is just silicone based garage door cable lube. Maybe not even that sophisticated. Just don't get any of it on the brake rotor. It does not come off easily
DuncanDoughnuts Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 I spray the MuckOff Electric spray in there every time I wash he bike .. so far so good ... not sure if its the right things to do? If anyone can advise? DieselnDust 1
DieselnDust Posted April 6, 2025 Posted April 6, 2025 1 hour ago, DuncanDoughnuts said: I spray the MuckOff Electric spray in there every time I wash he bike .. so far so good ... not sure if its the right things to do? If anyone can advise? Just keep that maintenance up 👍🏼
betaboy Posted April 7, 2025 Posted April 7, 2025 16 hours ago, DuncanDoughnuts said: I spray the MuckOff Electric spray in there every time I wash he bike .. so far so good ... not sure if its the right things to do? If anyone can advise? Just ensure it’s dried properly, and checked after each wash. Sram electro boards have yet to pass any aquatic tests.🤛🏻✅🤓
Max Headroom Posted May 25, 2025 Posted May 25, 2025 Just for info, I had the same problem with the pin getting stuck all the way in (and ordered/bought a few new pins) - but due to the waiting period and impatience to ride again, I pulled the pin-inner out all the way (with finger nails) - and then with a thin long nose pliers, slightly squeezed the back of the pin housing to prevent the inner pin sliding all the way in again. Done a year of riding since and no problem, works perfectly and haven't bothered to replace pin yet.
MORNE Posted May 25, 2025 Posted May 25, 2025 Guys/gals…hear me out. the time it takes to charge an axs battery = more time to change a cable. I’ve had axs, i’m back to full peasant mechanical. Im a happier person. By the time you need to worry about a worn cable you’ve likely already had one go at looking for micro adjust settings, links to axs battery pins, soldering irons, flux and youtube tutorials. Simplify your life…dont be a sram beta tester, reject mediocre products…and say no to charging anything on a bicycle! 😘 Robbie Stewart, ChrisF, Michael S and 4 others 3 2 2
hendrikdekock Posted January 13 Posted January 13 On 7/17/2024 at 9:00 AM, guidodg said: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-sockets/2479187?gb=s Hi everybody Like all on this forum, I had the same issue that one of the pogo pins' small little spring inside collapsed (the + node, seems to fail in all cases carrying more load than -). I can share a solution like another also found on this forum. I ordered these pins from above link at https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-sockets/2479187?gb=s per @guidodg (thanks for that). You get 5 and it cost about R100 for the strip plus courier so R250 total. You need a solder iron and some solder, pair of tweezers, a T6 Torx screwdriver, good eyes and a steady hand. Unscrew the little torx screws, lift the rubber plastic plate, be careful to not lose the little screws, when they fall it is impossible to find them they are so small. Unsolder the old pins from the little pc board, re-solder the new ones, make sure they are square, and that worked for me. A R250 fix. The bike shops weren't offering any solutions other than expensive ones. So I'm afraid this is a DIY job. It's a bit of a schlep, but worth it though. There is a video on this thread of someone harvesting pins from a charger which would also work and the workflow is the same, the charger is just much more expensive than the pins bought seperately. Good luck KingZA and ChrisF 2
guidodg Posted January 13 Posted January 13 I have done it successfully but it requires some fine soldering skills… it’s not that simple. I see someone in the classifieds was offering a repair service if you are not sure about doing it yourself
dave303e Posted January 13 Posted January 13 there is a bush fix for this as well. We sat in a hotel garden in Naryn stuffing our faces while a fellow racer executed the fix using a youtube video to guide him. He rode another 500km before pulling out but I was impressed with the fix that morning. I promised myself I would study the bush fix that day, but have not really ridden since then and forgot( maybe the 3 hours of sleep that night killed the memory... That being said having just abused the daylights out of my axs on all the bike hike a bikes at silk road, it is worth it's weight in gold not having to change the dropout or bending them.
Kom Posted January 14 Posted January 14 On 1/13/2026 at 9:47 AM, dave303e said: there is a bush fix for this as well actually quite easy, take a small piece of tin foil, and just crimp it around the remainder of the compressed pin, creates a reliable contact with the battery and will stay in place. needs reinstall every time you charge the battery though, so is frustrating. betaboy and dave303e 1 1
openmind Posted January 15 Posted January 15 17 hours ago, Kom said: actually quite easy, take a small piece of tin foil, and just crimp it around the remainder of the compressed pin, creates a reliable contact with the battery and will stay in place. needs reinstall every time you charge the battery though, so is frustrating. Flip, you guys with your electronic bodges. To think that you can buy a full XTR group for less than the cheapest electronic junk. Go cables, spend more time riding and drinking beer. Kom 1
Mongoose! Posted January 15 Posted January 15 1 hour ago, openmind said: To think that you can buy a full XTR group for less than the cheapest electronic junk. Go cables, But XTR is electronic? And very expensive. Second hand mtb drive train parts are a minefield.... my worst Hub deals ever...🙃
openmind Posted January 15 Posted January 15 26 minutes ago, Mongoose! said: But XTR is electronic? And very expensive. Second hand mtb drive train parts are a minefield.... my worst Hub deals ever...🙃 XTR mechanical is still very much available. XT is much cheaper still and works almost as well.
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