Karman de Lange

He was running on hiking trails .. not part of MTO as far i'm aware. but ja.. get what you trying to say.

It was rather big fire this time ... Luckily the wind stopped for a day or two and they managed to keep fire at bay .. we had ash raining down for a few days, but fire got stopped before buring to badly on blaauklippen side (our side). Seems like jonkers took the major brunt of things. Here video of what looking like at moment Foto of one evening when it popped over, they stopped it during night/morning.

thanks so in essence it runs off solar until to much power drawn (geyser/aircon etc) , switch back to eksdom.. and solar does nothing until load drops again. (Yes, i run our aircons and geyser of solar ) . was wondering how they make sure there is no feedback back to grid.. most other systems have external controls talking to the different inverters (solar/battery).. its not easy to get rid of energy .. (Sma uses Home Assistant and Victron uses the GX with mostly Fronius grid tie to prevent feedback.)

cool .. I have no knowledge of Kodak .. its after my "time" It does look like nice inverter for our off grid installation though ... need to investigate. hell lot cheaper than victron...

Are you sure the VMIII pulls of solar first before grid? You might find that only keeps the battery charged, so you will only have the benefit of the solar when you have power failure. Also, on your diagram .. try get method to swith home direk to grid/generator for when the inverter packs up and you waiting for repairs.. With the victron the in/out AC cables are male female, so you can simply unplug, and plug into each other and power house normaly. (its legal as its break before make switch over).

Are you planning grid tied, or UPS function? 2 very different legalities (just noticed the inverter you speced, sounds like ups ?)

My methodology(?) is .. make it safe. I would feel rather *** if inverter exploded and killed my family cause I could not be arsed to install R15 circuit breaker. But ja , I also do all my own electric work after a sparky from well known company came to "fix" our earth leakage tripping by bypassing the it completely...... We found this out later when I thought i should check if the button on it still works.... it did not .. opened the DB and nothing was connected to it . . Reconnected it and eventually replaced geyser element that was the cause. I bought all the SANS documentation and read it cover to cover and all my work is 100% legal , up to standard or beyond.

I see the firemans might be our local muni bylaw .. so maybe just check your muni bylaws as well. Best would be to get the SSEG application form, and start getting the basics checked off on it. Most of the thing you need to comply with is listed on it.

Dunno about jhb, but here the list of from WC https://resource.capetown.gov.za/documentcentre/Documents/Forms,%20notices,%20tariffs%20and%20lists/Approved%20Photovoltaic%20(PV)%20Inverter%20List.pdf The fire approval I think is from the electric standards book when you run a UPS (which you going todo as you have battery) (I will go do some googling) The fireman cut is so that they can make premisses safe in case of a fire.. So if they switch eskom off, and now your UPS kicks they spray water and get electricuted , you might hold liable https://www.voltex.co.za/product/waco-era-fireman-switch-20a-double-pole-fs220/ The Kodak/Mecer and those copies as far I know is not approved, then you need to install a Ziehl UFR1001E in front of it, last price was R12k , maybe more now.

1: Make sure inverter is on the Eskom approved list. Otherwise you will have to pay to get it approved or add another R12k unit to get it passed 2: A : Battery can explode if something goes wrong (internal short etc), so i wont have it anywhere near where people is/live could be often. B: Need to be signed of by fire department, and I doubt they will let that pass... you would probably need only about 10mm2 cable for 32A installation 4kw. My cables is 20m long and cost R2k .. So stick ouside in a fireproof hokkie with the fire cutoff switch as per firepeople is my recomendation

This is my understanding from years of reading .. but happy to get disproved: Lead acid starts forming crystals (sulfation) if not fully charged. Thus, if you don't keep them charged they start degrading. The more they discharged, the more crystals form the short the lifespan. Basicly if you dicharge more, it stays in non fully charges state for longer. (there is plates buckling from overdischarge(heat etc) as well, but I dont have much knowlege about that Sulfation: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/sulfation_and_how_to_prevent_it : There is methods to get charge faster (not the 12-14hrs mentioned), but then you need to know what you are doing and proper fully programmable charging system. BMS ... Would love to see any "basic" bms limit current. 99% of them just tell charger to charge/not charge and keep cells at correct balance by doing a top balance. Its up to the combination of the BMS and the Charger to determine the current/votlage of charge. We run batrium with victron, it can limit the current, but its 2 steps .. either full, or lmited, its not progresive. (the mangement part, not charging curves) Lithium Cycle life: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries Lifespan : (did not read this article in full, but its just something ive seen many times) https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/bu_808b_what_causes_li_ion_to_die I have pack of ~1900 cells in our ~7s280p battery bank.. about 500 of those cells was at or below 1v when I got them. They recovered to full capacity after sitting in the state for >5 years. (this was all old discarded laptop packs). They been running now for about 2.5 years and capacity seems better now than when I build it... I keep them at about 3.9v currently due to load shedding expectations, normally they at 3.83v. If it does not make sense, please excuse me .. its was quick type while trying to fix internet and program

Buy lithium, keep it at below 80% charge. (or make your own "powerwall", thats what I did) 99% of "solar" batterys last 2-3 years and charges in 8-12 hrs , so not enough time between load shedding to get full charge and you will have to buy full new set way before you even think you ready. "Lead acid" gets damaged when not fully charged and lasts about 100-200 cycles (so that 2-3 cycles on "stage 2" per day which equates to 30-60 days of shedding before replacement) Lithium gets damaged when fully charged (like to be 80% or lower), at 80% you get about 1000-4000 cycles. I keep mine at 60%, in theory about >10000 cycles. Happy to assist, I've not read this thread My system been running since load shedding day 1 .. i've been through all the motions....

fixed it

CPA only applies to companies or people that sell often to make money so if the seller sells bike parts often and its known that he/she does, then might apply , otherwise no CPA ...... unless it changed in last year https://www.vanhuyssteens.co.za/newsroom/item/58-the-unenviable-position-of-persons-selling-second-hand-goods

most gps devices have this build in these days. Its really simple to code as well . You simply plot the actual route coordinates, do simple 1 line query and if they more than xyz meters from closest plotted points throw alert . not rocket science. Probably 2-3 hrs work if you already have the dots getting recorded

I've dropped of the wagon to many times since lockdown.. picked up 8kg in 6 months. At least lost 5kg again. Not joining the challenge this year .. just don't have the motivation . I will make sure I don't pick up again though .. that is at least easy... lets hope this virus get deleted and we can all get back to something in region of normal.

Must say. Christiaan (Buks) Schutte dont worry about privacy online.. But ja.. as they say your whole live already on interweb so why care...

Not if your seeding sucks... o wait

Everyone seeding is penalised by exact same amount.. not sure why people worried about it. there is no races that use seeding this year either. So again, who cares. if you have no seeding when racing start again, do 3-4 and you will be in the group you belong, ja you might have to actually work for it and not just wheel suck to keep your seeding...

Used this about a month ago with new tyres . got tiny thorn a week ago , all sealant oozed onto the floor (nice sticky mess) and hole never sealed. The hole was small enough that could ride it for a hour before needing to pump again. Bought stans at 1/4 of the price (big bottle) and sealed instantly. Dunno if dodgy batch or just not good if older than few weeks.

There’s no mountain in jhb

Motor pacing on hills is real thing.... not like i would know of course... ... my suggestion, Change seeding to what other countries use, our system is way to flawed. But ive had this rant way to many times.

Strava share ride data for free, the premium part is to give access to segments details you ride to the 3rd party.

PPA pay racetec for timing, and racetec do the seeding. So you actually paying racetec for the seeding. Its not the same company