Chavo

The Uvex Jakkyl HDE helmet available at Flook for R2229 if anyone is interested. Seems a good deal to me! https://www.flook.co.za/product/uvex-jakkyl-hde-enduro-mtb-helmet-black

If you have an older crank it's most likely a 104BCD. If you're unsure, post a pic of the crank for more accurate input

Use a narrow-wide ring specific for purpose since the stock chainring that you have left in the middle is designed to allow the chain to be moved off it by the front derailleur. Your rear derailleur likely also doesn't have a clutch mechanism which means the chain moves more freely when encountering trail/road obstacles and thus exacerbates chain movement leading to it falling off. Otherwise buy a chain guide that essentially replaces your front derailleur and you can probably keep the standard ring for a bit (but that is an imperfect system - just get a narrow-wide ring).

Just as I've started using that route again...dammit! Sorry to hear of your ordeal, glad it ended mostly OK. Sucks though

https://www.bikehub.co.za/features/_/gear/reviews/review-pyga-oneforty650-pascoe-r3982

Have you tried contacting Pyga direct? sales@pygaindustries.com

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnqQZxGlYUO/?utm_source=ig_web_options_share_sheet

The size of the jumps on this track are just ridiculous

For a less permanent solution, you could also use black electrical or duct tape...resale value and what not. All the above are certainly heaps cheaper than the MRP decapitater (even if it is pretty cool)

6 pairs of crazy sexy cycling socks for just on 50 bucks each...you're welcome https://www.onedayonly.co.za/6-pairs-of-men-s-cycling-socks-172457.html

Sounds like a lot of hubbers will be riding/commuting on Cannondale Trail 7 or Trail 5 bikes in the not too distant future

Seems reasonable to assume. In terms of establishing year, well that's a whole new ball game. But I think the black anodizing on the stanchion was introduced in around 2014, so yours is likely an earlier model. If the serial number has the letters "MY" in it, the number that follows is usually the year of manufacture

I'd suggest playing with the lockout lever to establish if you have the RT3 or RT/RL. The RT3 lever will move to 3 positions, basically 8 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 4 o'clock (see pic 1 below). The RL and RT will only be at 6 o'clock and move to 8 o'clock (2nd pic below). If an RL or RT you will likely need to fit the shock to a frame to check if it is a threshold (RT) or lockout (RL) model, since the threshold will likely offer more travel then the lockout when in lockout/threshold position (well that's my very simplistic understanding of the difference between RL and RT in any case) RT3 RL/RT

I've always struggled with finding a variety of shoes to try, but that's because practically no one brings my size in locally anymore (EU49 - plus my feet are wide). Ended up risking an online purchase through Amazon but only because they had a ridiculous special on a pair of shoes that looked like I would have better success with fit purely because they looked more foot shape to me (if that makes sense). I lucked out and they have been one of the best fitting cycle shoes I've had. But it was a risk and I only took it because of the price and being at my wits end in trying to find a shoe locally that fit! The shoes in question are Pearl Izumi X-Alp Summit. If you have a more "normal" shape foot that falls within more regular sizing then perhaps buying online is less of a risk. Trying on before you buy can't be beat but unfortunately I find local options for this fairly limited. You generally have to request a store to bring in the shoe for you to try on as stock is not regularly carried.

The frame comes at a premium "R35 000 for a custom build Ti frame (Road, Gravel or HT) and R45 000 for a dual sus frame." http://calculus-bikes.com/titanium/

If this is so, then why would you not accept the bike back once it was discovered to be in a state of disrepair?

Yeah, that sucks! Buuut, there is a lot of scratching on the toe box by the area that has come undone suggesting you slipped a pedal and caught your foot on something? IMO, that was likely the undoing of your warranty claim...the right shoe by comparison looks unscathed.

Fair points! Certainly wasn't trying to give you flack, just wondering whether or not you were coming from a personal experience side of it. It comes down to personal preference in the most part, but I think it should be noted that longer distance can be done with flats it could however be argued that they are less efficient than clips (over long distance) and not necessarily the best option for long distance if you have limited experience on flats. But for learning proper technique, flats can't be beat

The flats and clips debate is always divisive and it seems clear which side of the fence you sit on. Out of interest, have you ever ridden flats? And if so, have you done long distance with them? Just wondering if your comments are from personal experience or based on assumption...

As the Cpt suggest, just make sure whatever shoes you first try flats with that they have an equivalent flat sole like this: A sole like this and you're gonna have a bad time:

Agree that I would also opt for the V12s if given the choice but they won't come out as value for money from CRC...at GBP36+shipping+VAT+handling fees, I imagine you're looking at closer to R1200 landed at current exchange rates

And here are the DMR V8's...which are arguably cheaper since shipping is free. Plus there are colour options if you're into that https://www.pinned.co.za/dmr-v8-pedals.html

Even if the 2018 model retails for R32k, it's likely not even you paid that for it new (assuming your struck a deal for a sale - as we all do). The 2019 models are also soon to be released to market so the price for a new 2018 will likely drop even lower and perhaps closer to your asking price (guess +/- R24k). Add that XL's are a more niche market and it makes things tricky. I also doubt 2015 Trances sold for as much as what you're asking for yours...they may have been advertised for more but I suspect the final selling price was lower. Cash is king and what not. If you're looking for a quick sale you will likely have to make peace with the lowest amount you'd be "happy" to take

Ride an XL and battled with selling my previous bike (also an XL)...until I dropped my price to being a steal. If you're selling second hand I've come to realise it's because you're doing just that, selling, and not because you're using the funds to sponsor the next project. The second hand market is not a place to try make money or recoup funds, imo at least.

@CWC since you've added this, please can you let me know if this is the ADDIX Soft compound?