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On 3/29/2023 at 5:44 PM, Brawler said:Devils advocate - don't shoot me.
- Lower economies of scale
- Fewer suppliers and fatter profits
- Are you comparing an ultra high end bicycle tyre to a Toyota Tazz tyre? Go look at the price of a Range Rover tyre...
I can not even imagine what a tire for something like a Bugatti Veyron cost
Call it quits and you will regret it. Keep on riding, just dont do the stupid stuff. I myself are mid 40's now and I know there are certain routes and tracks that I can do, but I'm self employed and my age means I will recover longer and not able to work if I take a bad tumble.
Keep on riding, walk around the crazy stuff and let's keep on enjoying this sport for as long as possible.
Got a pair of Avid Elixer 1 up for grabs. No idea if they are working ( they feel fine) - a client of mine gave this to me. The one lever have some corrosion - see pic.
I can not think of anything I need now, so surprise me. Meet-up in Bellville/Durbanville area.
Hey, I like the top tube stem assembly! Just a nice smooth "ramp" up and over the bike - no more hitting your knaters on the stem when you hit a car or pedestrian. Just a smooth slide over and connecting with your whole body!
Wish I had this on my bike a few weeks back. Could have prevented some tears then!
At this point in time, you need a new bike!
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8 minutes ago, BigDL said:Started a project to build an outdoor counter a while back and finally decided to use a big hunk of live edge wood as the counter top. So, went last week and bought a 4 metre length of Cyprus to start working on. My mate turned up on the weekend with some tools for me to use, one of which was a track saw. Never used one before, but they are amazing. Was going to use the chainsaw but the track saw was precise and super neat. Now I can't stop thinking about why I need one.
The angle might be the problem, but am I wrong to think you have very short horses?
All of these riders are extremely good in their own (but only one) discipline. But no one will ever come close to what John Tomac achieved over multiple disciplines.
Some downhill guys of previous eras were very good in BMX as well, but the focus has shifted towards being the best in one discipline - you have to to be the best nowadays.
Tomac gets my vote!
Please DM me regarding this.
Just being able to still ride is the best. There are nice stuff like, single track, long downhills, twisty routes, rock gardens, etc. But as I am looking after a lot of beginner mtb'ers, you still see their enthusiasm for the sport and that is the best, just to go ride.
51 minutes ago, M L said:Better to make assumptions and possibly be wrong, or hurt some feelings of the sensitive, than sit by and do nothing 👏.
Agree with you. People are way too sensitive and there is nothing wrong with asking "is this bike(s) possibly stolen?"
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6 hours ago, Hairy said:For all you old timers ... this may be your solution ... mounted the biggest tablet you can find onto your handle bars ... you can also then use the tablets camera to zoom into any "fine font" that you are struggling with
You can also use the camera and zoom in on the trail ahead.🤣
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The BCD of every chainring should be written on the chainrings. Take the chainrings off and look on the "inside", bike side of the ring.
My last visit to my optometrist, I saw she had some flowers and chocolate on her desk. I asked if it was her birthday. She said no. Its a "thank you" gift from a guy who she helped remove metal from his eye. He was grinding "commando" and got some in his eye.
I replied with a "that will teach him". She said actually no, it was his second time there. Some people will never learn.
12 minutes ago, Robbie Stewart said:You must then start riding your bikes...????
I push on the wrong side of 120kg and I have broken my fair share of spokes. I ride strictly alu as I agree carbon is stronger likely, but the way I ride, alu is cheaper...I don't shy away from drops, gaps, rocks or jumps and in all the years of me riding I have only needed to replace one set of wheels earlier this year after 9500km of abuse.
My tip - if you are a big boy like me and ride on the fun side, wider rims are better. And of course, 32 spokes are always a better choice than 28.
But yes. No matter the choice. A GOOD WHEEL BUILDER is not negotiable.
Yes mom, I will go play outside!!
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34 minutes ago, Mike Mac said:Hi
Thanks for the advise. I really appreciate it. I will consider alu options as well if there is good reason to do so. I understood that the alu rims would be stronger, but was not aware of other benefits.
Any other comments along these lines greatly appreciated.
M
The best is to do a bit of research of what your ride, riding style, bike, etc, and then you decide. Both carbon and alu, have advantages and disadvantages. Even if you can afford it, carbon is good, but it might not be the best choice for you. Alu rims can take a big hit and still be ridable. When you take a big hit with carbon rims, it could be completely destroyed.
No matter what you choose, get the wheels built by a very good recommended wheel builder. An expensive wheelset, built by a bad builder, is much worse than a cheap wheelset built by a good builder. I weigh on the bad side of 100kg, always had budget wheels, but I have never broken a spoke.
All the best.
19 hours ago, Mike Mac said:Hi
I am looking to get a new set of carbon wheels made for an enduro bike. They will need to be boost 29 front, 27.5 rear using Sram Eagle groupset and Mugura 203mm rotors.
What should I be looking at in terms of hubs, rims, spokes etc.
Recommendations iro a reputable wheel builder will also be useful.
Furthermore, if there are a really good second hand option to look at, please feel free to point me in that direction as well.
I am new to all this and still finding my way around things and often I really don't know what I am looking is a good or bad so all advise is appreciated.
M
Please dont take this the wrong way. You said you are new to this and advice is welcome. Why do you want carbon wheels?
I am not dictating what you need or want, but there are a major difference between carbon and aluminium rims and carbon might not be the best for you. Carbon is strong, but also very stiff and you might get tired quicker.
On 11/8/2021 at 11:26 AM, copperhead said:The problem lies within the manufacturers of stuff. If they made parts of cassettes available then that would work. The smallest 2 or 3 gears are the ones that need replacing. The rest are fine. But nooooo they won't do that. Full cassette. It someone made this option available then I would use their product. Unless you know a fix to this problem?
Long time ago the casettes were like that, but held together with rivets. We use to grind the rivets of and remove it and then we could replace a single gear/cog. But back then thats what the technology allowed and it were heaver. Now the tech have evolved, casettes are lighter and "one piece".
The industry answered with lighter casettes because that is what was asked - not single cogs you can replace seperately. But maybe there is a market for that. I just think it will be more expensive and people who work on their own bikes who dont have the proper experience, will f#$k it up.
19 hours ago, Jaz said:I'm getting closer to buying my first proper MTB. I popped round to Mellow Velo today and spoke to Wesley, great chap!
My budget is around R12k (bike only) I'm keen on the Titan Rogue Sport, since it has air shocks and the brand itself seems to be great value for money. Of course, any other reputable brand in the same price range will be considered.
Both my wrists have been broken in the past, one hand has no cartilage and screws, while the other only has screws extra. I've been cleared by the surgeon to ride cycles. Wesley recommended the air shocks, to lessen the impact of terrain and vibrations on my hands. I'm looking at doing road/trail rides, not bliksem down a mountain jumping over rocks and stray animals.
Is there really such a big difference, in your own experience, between the two shock types? Or do I save R2k and go for a Scott-type cycle?
You haved asked about the fork and alot of good advice is at hand, but with your hand injuries, the better question would be to look at is your grips (which make a big difference) and possibly your handlebar and gloves.
You did not mention what is the situation with your hands (less grip, cannot close your hands, etc.) Im asking, because even with the best fork, if you can not hold on properly, the fork is only part of the issue.
In some countries its rear left (othetwise known as motorbike style) and other rear right. There are countries where this is mandatory. In the US its law to sell a bike with left controlling the front.
In the end its a personal preference and what you are used to, because its very difficult to "un-learn" it. I ride rear rear left my whole life and nearly killed myself on a demo ride once when I forgot this.
So its not better or worse, just different.
12 minutes ago, Rolf Hansen said:I cannot see why not. It is quick, easy and cheap to do.
Cables you leave untill there is a problem which you cannot solve by tuning. Then you start looking at your cables. When you install cables, they are not stretched up to their max, therefor when you install new cables, your gear will be good for a few rides and then it will start to give problems. That is then when your cable is stretched and at its optimum. Only when there is a problem, broken cable housing, or flayed cable, etc, then you look at your cable and its possible replacement. You don't just replace when you want to or when something is not right. I have bikes running for more than 10 years with the same cables.
5 hours ago, Martin PJ said:In some areas, grease or oil just attracts dirt, I don't grease cables, just change them often.
Cables you dont "just change them often" like chains. Cables stretch to a certain point and you only change them when they cause a problem. One dont change cables like one change chains.
SRAM announce hangerless Eagle Transmission drivetrains
in The Bike Room
Posted
Excluding Grip Shifters off course!