MORNE

The fact that they were using a very expensive torque wrench to REMOVE a bolt is more damning than I think you probably intended haha. I wouldn't feel too guilty. This is such a noob mistake 😅. i like my csixx stuff. I regret getting the derailleur cage though. Was a waste of money. Terrible bearings in them. Well it’s better with stock sram/shim wheels in it. Don’t know if they had a running update. And the first iteration of the dropper lever had a cable bolt made of cheese. Ive noticed they updated it.

Ive had a 210mm v2 One up and now a v3 in 240mm. They are great. The v3 is a also much improved over the v2 in terms of action, slop etc. Ive had good experiences with 170 and 200mm Lyne’s too. None of them compare to the Bikeyoke Revive I had and sold on another bike. Thats still my ‘money is no object dropper’ Yes..they are infinitely more expensive but im still convinced thats the best dropper money can buy..even compared to all the wireless junk out now.

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/mountain-bike-brakes/802611/hope-tech-3-v4-and-x2-brake-set. ask. Maybe they’ll split the set.

I agree with your points on how to help mitigate, but i think high rise bars /front grip is also very much bike dependant. I run minimum 50mm bars on all my bikes. #tall people problems. On my Forbidden with its 470mm rear end…even 50mm rise with 20mm spacers feels too low as the bike’s geo naturally puts your weight over the front with the long rear end. And then it has a rearward axle path so it gets even longer as you ride though stuff. I think it maxes out at 485mm or something. It tends to want to oversteer into corners if im not thinking about where im in the bike. I still think thats what happened in Jan when i rearranged my skeleton. I suspect 75mm bars might feel perfect on that bike too… My Cotic has a 670mm stack on a 150mm fork…30mm higher than the forbidden on a 170mm fork. So Plenty tall. I have/had 60mm risers on that bike and 20mm spacers under the stem…BUT, it’s a good 25mm shorter in the rear than the forbidden….so weight bias is naturally more rearward on that and its so noticeable. I had to drop that stem/bar combo by 10mm to get the front to not feel wishy/washy. I’m also considering going down a spring rate (as you mention above) I could probably make it lower for more grip but im enjoying the high riding position when going down steep stuff. PS: depending on your bar roll, high rise bars and more spacers under the stem don't have the same effect. High rise bars preserves your reach. Stem spacers move your bar backward about 5mm for every 10mm you go up or whatever the Pythagorean math says.

ive found the opposite, short offset forks are more stable but i guess it depends on other cockpit setup too. I try and match stem length and fork offsets as a general rule of thumb for modern geo bikes. In the end it shouldn't feel that much different. Just different. You say you wanted a taller steerer. That tells me you mounted your bars higher on this new fork right?, essentially also moving your weight bias rearward. It will take grip off the front wheel and a small amount can be very noticeable. In this case a longer stem may help get more weight back over the front again. Need more info though. as touched on above already, if the new fork is taller, the exact same as above applies. Set sag, open compression settings and set the rebound around middle depending on your weight. Go from there. I would assume you probably put similar settings on the new fork as the old one, so it shouldn't be vastly out anyway. Also, quick / free test will be to mount the stem in the same spot as the old fork and try again (if you raised the bar) Or slam it and feel if the front grip returns. Usually a good indication.

@V18

Somewhat related to this… Owning all the tools to replace frame/pivot bearings and doing your own basic suspension services can be both a blessing and a curse. There is no better feeling than freshly serviced suspension/ linkages/ bearings on a bike. Being able to do it yourself then means that blissful silence and slippery efficiency is only a few hours of wrenching away. I sometimes miss the days of ignoring minor creeks because i now know exactly where to find and fix them…and i always feel the need to oblige. This is also imo why hardtails will keep you sane for longer😅 i ride mine in everything and put it away dirty. Although i will say it’s rather therapeutic stripping a bike down to the bearings and putting it all back together. It’s the chase…

Anyway, the only real shimano guarantee we here is SA have is the knowledge that you’ll be able to buy this first from an international retailer before the local shimano distro even knows something new has been released😅

The cockroaches will inherit post-apocalyptic earth…. They will also be driving toyota’s and riding shimano drivetrains on their steel bicycles…. 🪳

If only for 25mm…and on a gravel bike…i’d risk using that. Stems are usually around 40mm stack so it would be clamping on both the upper part of the existing steerer and the new extender. The expander/bung also means I wouldn't be too worried about clamping in the upper 20mm odd of the carbon steerer as it will be supported on the inside. i mean it is marketed as such, gets good reviews and is shown on the web page to do exactly what i just described. Take note of this bit: we recommend the extender to be epoxy bonded into the steerer for best security. never on anything i expect to ride off anything higher than a sidewalk though😅

Say what you like about their timelines, they obviously don't care….but wanna bet that you wont be googling how to replace battery pins on these anytime soon?😅

Anecdotally, i sold a full bike 2 months ago for asking price on here. Last year I sold two. One XL and one XXL. I think its less about size and more about what it is. I personally don't buy what I call ‘cookie cutter bikes’. There are people who want them of course, but when you try snd sell a trek, spez, giant etc..your are part of a huge pool of other people trying to sell the same thing more or less. If you have something ‘no one else’ has…or is rare locally, it helps. Makes it easier to split bike and sell parts too.

Trek also screwed you over by selling the 9.8 version of this bike, in full carbon everything…for half price late last year November. Think the sold for R50k or so something. I personally know two people who bought them then. Trek giving away R120k bikes for chips basically. Thats part of your problem imo. Market was flooded with cheap, arguably better versions and everybody that was looking, got new ones instead.

Guys/gals…hear me out. the time it takes to charge an axs battery = more time to change a cable. I’ve had axs, i’m back to full peasant mechanical. Im a happier person. By the time you need to worry about a worn cable you’ve likely already had one go at looking for micro adjust settings, links to axs battery pins, soldering irons, flux and youtube tutorials. Simplify your life…dont be a sram beta tester, reject mediocre products…and say no to charging anything on a bicycle! 😘

I suspect the only material difference back then was the ‘siltec’ coating on mtb chains which helps with wet-n-wild riding, and the open side plates…hence the slight weight difference. The rest wont be any different. also- some anecdotal evidence …another piece of info to ease your mind re 10spd…the DH Shimano Saint groupset is 10speed and has a setting to flip between road gearing for close ratio road casettes, as well as wide ratio mtb casettes depending on what you want. Almost everyone runs a 11-25/28 road casette with them…and im pretty sure they dont care what version of a 10 speed chains they pair with it.

Agree. And for what it’s worth…from 11spd they realised it will be cheaper to just make one box for both😅: ps…also, 11 spd chains work better on 10spd drivetrains.

This is the way

This is the type of advanced narrative sarcasm I signed up for! Beautiful 😂

https://evobikes.co.za/product/shimano-csm9100-sprocket-unit-10-12t-new-code-sold-as-a-set/?srsltid=AfmBOoo4Cu9KXjWpPXyG-TCNEACsg5R3ziDt-fpfX3wt8tdJ-GDO0_7-

Just to be clear @ChrisF, I was not implying you were impressed by the security room and therefore a know-not 😅

That security room is probably like the bling express passport control gates at the airport….built to look nice and impress the know-nots, while providing anecdotal proof of government spending, but unfortunately not connected to anything that would make them function 😅

Nice! Still wanted that (retired) Soma Saga huh😅? This looks much nicer though. don't forget about here: https://www.merlincycles.com/search?w=Carbon+fork PS, as Droo mentioned already, Dave has access to the full Columbus range too. They do carbon forks as well. https://www.columbus1919.com/en/carbon-forks/

I agree that its personal and you’ll likely have to try quite a few before you find The One. But i’ll share mine anyway: Spez Bridge Mimic. Ive tried one or two other saddles after this on a whim (and MANY MANY before it, from Brooks to SQ labs and everything in between)…and i keep coming back to the Bridge. I found my happy place on it. It just works for me and my specific ass. Supremely comfy for hours on a mtb. Also not overly long so when you slam the dropper…it doesn't get in the way like some others. https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/saddles/specialized-bridge-comp-saddle-review-2

Bra…ek gaan bier in my camelback sit en agterstevoor om ry….