Best Chain lube for MTB

[Hackster]

I bought the Motorex Dry lube. May I ask how you apply this with the spray nozzle and ensure it goes only on the chain? I tend to find it sprays too big an area?

I'm a big fan of Motorex Dry and Wet lubes.

 

Applying it is a simple operation but a mission to explain. What you don't want to happen is the overspray to go everywhere, especially not on your brake rotors. You only make this mistake once...

 

So, buy yourself a pack of rags from BW or your local motorspares shop.

 

When you're ready to spray your chain, put a rag behind the chain, between the chain and the wheel.

 

Your rag should cover the area from the top chain to the ground and widthwise, from the cassette to the chain rings.

 

I tuck the rag into the spokes at the top so that it stays in place.

 

Hold the spray can about 5 cm from the chain, spraying down onto the chain, not on the side of the chain.

 

You're spraying the lower chain.

 

Start spraying while you rotate the closest pedal crank  - in reverse... so that you don't have to deal with a spinning wheel which will eject your rag.

 

Spray the chain until it looks nice and wet, shouldn't take more than 10 seconds or so.

 

Now remove the rag and wrap the wet part of it around your chain, and run your chain through the rag to remove the excess oil.

 

Using your rag as a 'splashback' barrier, put some lube on both your derailleur's pivot points.

 

Work the chain up and down the cluster and chain rings.

 

You're done.

 

Shouldn't take much more than 10 mins.

 

It helps to have a bike stand, even just one of those cheap holdfast jobbies that you drop your chain and seat stay into.

Edited March 12, 2015 by Hackster

[porqui]

Glock - Ballistol might be a bit "thin".

 

Best lube is old sump oil and it is free.

Clean chain regularly and apply a small drop to each link.

Takes me about 3 minutes.

[Davey_Jones]

Glock - Ballistol might be a bit "thin".

 

Best lube is old sump oil and it is free.

Clean chain regularly and apply a small drop to each link.

Takes me about 3 minutes.

Why old sump oil.  Wouldn't this have carbon build up in it and micro iron articles? Wouldn't new motor oil be better and its relatively cheap?

Edited March 12, 2015 by Davey_Jones

[Rudi Pollard]

The only lube I put on my chain is the Rock and Roll Extreme. It is expensive yes, but it lasts and is easy to clean.

Everying else I have tried just doesnt even come close!!!

[CAAD4]

SAE 40.

[Vangar]

The only lube I put on my chain is the Rock and Roll Extreme. It is expensive yes, but it lasts and is easy to clean.

Everying else I have tried just doesnt even come close!!!

 

+1 from me. And it works a treat on doorlocks and padlocks too.

[Surv0MTB]

I use Purple Extreme

 

http://www.wiggle.com/purple-extreme-synthetic-lubricant/

 

1 Bottle is about R150 bucks, but lasts me for about two years.

 

Never had a chain issue.

[Resiesfiets]

After trying all sorts of chain lubes I've started using Castrol GTX motor oil and has been using that for the past three years.

 

A drivetrain (2x10 setup with 2 chains swopped every 2/3 weeks) lasts me 16 months and I ride about 7500-8500  per year in a variety of conditions which includes stage races.

[HOEKVLAG]

I'm a big fan of Motorex Dry and Wet lubes.

 

Applying it is a simple operation but a mission to explain. What you don't want to happen is the overspray to go everywhere, especially not on your brake rotors. You only make this mistake once...

 

So, buy yourself a pack of rags from BW or your local motorspares shop.

 

When you're ready to spray your chain, put a rag behind the chain, between the chain and the wheel.

 

Your rag should cover the area from the top chain to the ground and widthwise, from the cassette to the chain rings.

 

I tuck the rag into the spokes at the top so that it stays in place.

 

Hold the spray can about 5 cm from the chain, spraying down onto the chain, not on the side of the chain.

 

You're spraying the lower chain.

 

Start spraying while you rotate the closest pedal crank  - in reverse... so that you don't have to deal with a spinning wheel which will eject your rag.

 

Spray the chain until it looks nice and wet, shouldn't take more than 10 seconds or so.

 

Now remove the rag and wrap the wet part of it around your chain, and run your chain through the rag to remove the excess oil.

 

Using your rag as a 'splashback' barrier, put some lube on both your derailleur's pivot points.

 

Work the chain up and down the cluster and chain rings.

 

You're done.

 

Shouldn't take much more than 10 mins.

 

It helps to have a bike stand, even just one of those cheap holdfast jobbies that you drop your chain and seat stay into.

This, and I use the nozzle with the extender on it - the spray is a lot more localized...

[Guest notmyname]

I use Purple Extreme

 

http://www.wiggle.com/purple-extreme-synthetic-lubricant/

 

1 Bottle is about R150 bucks, but lasts me for about two years.

 

Never had a chain issue.

To be quite honest I'm not convinced with PE. Drive train seems to start singing after 40 odd kilos. I'm following the instruction on the bottle. I even watched the video on how to apply.

[porqui]

Why old sump oil.  Wouldn't this have carbon build up in it and micro iron articles? Wouldn't new motor oil be better and its relatively cheap?

 

You could let it stand for a couple of weeks and then filter it through a paper coffee filter.

New is cheap enough yes I was just going to the extreme of cheap.

[Wood1]

Having worked in the lubricating oil industry for a long time some comments:

1. User sump oil is carcinogenic. So would require more care when handling.

2. Castrol GTX is a multi grade oil. If you want to use an engine oil a simple mongrade would work out cheaper. Any of the oil majors.

3. It might be a consideration to use a wood oil that is mineral oil based. This oil would leave a fine film but penetrate into fine joints.

[HowardSteele]

I use Finish line -dry...and have used it for over 10 years...winter and summer...i keep my chain/chainrings and cluster  as clean as possible and lube every second ride or so.

I've tried plenty of other lubes but find although they do the job the dust just packs on to fast and always end up going back to Finish line

[Kranswurm]

White Lightning Epic

 

Oh and Motorex Bike Grease 2000 for all the grease applications.Best there is

Edited January 9, 2016 by Kranswurm

[BaGearA]

To everyone complaining about squirt guncking up your chain it's because you are using too much and also not wiping the excess off.... lube is ment to be on the inside i.e. on the rollers everything on the outside is 100 percent useless

[johannrissik]

In my opinion, the best all-round lube is Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil. If you've been following the news, you'll understand.