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Posted

I have run the EVO Scwalbe RR and never had a problem with them. Too low pressure and they just skwirm about on the rim. They need around 23-25psi to even begin to feel like they doing anything.

 

I now have the SS version. Run those at 20 psi - no grip.

run them at 23-25 psi, hey presto grip and no punctures or sidewalls failures.

 

Strange that that is the exact pressure Schwalbe recommends as a minimum......wow. would never have though the people who designed the tyre know more than the end user.

 

Same with the Canis.

 

shirts not rocket science. Read and apply. go ride

 

 

sorry for the sarcasm but each time I see someone with a blown side wall its on technical terrain and tyres look and are flat. But a friend whose brother in law's cousin rides with a guy who works with the 2nd cousin of the wife of a guy at a tyre brand said lower is better...

 

Had a giggle...love the post  :thumbup:

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Posted

 

 

sorry for the sarcasm but each time I see someone with a blown side wall its on technical terrain and tyres look and are flat. But a friend whose brother in law's cousin rides with a guy who works with the 2nd cousin of the wife of a guy at a tyre brand said lower is better...

I remember a random guy (client, not a salesperson) trying to convince me that crossmarks are simply the best tyres, and give amazing grip in corners, but that they shouldn't be inflated more than 1.2 bar. I told him if he rides like that and doesn't feel his tyres folding in corners, then he is not riding hard enough and need to loosen the handbrake. Apparently I am a box.

Posted

I am also a big fan of the Crossmark because of it being IMHO the most robust tyre I've encountered, it is capable and suitable for most of our rocky and clad stone terrain in the Breederiver Valley in the dry summer conditions.

 

Having said that I wont run them on my bike because they have little to no grip in wet, muddy or loose gravel terrain and are quit heavy.

 

I am quite fond of my Vittoria tyres as they give a good combonation between strenght, grip and little rolling resistance. Would however not mind giving the ONZA's a go to see what the hype is about.I must admit, I quite like the tread pattern on both the CANIS and IBEX models, they look very grippy.

 

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Posted

I am also a big fan of the Crossmark because of it being IMHO the most robust tyre I've encountered, it is capable and suitable for most of our rocky and clad stone terrain in the Breederiver Valley in the dry summer conditions.

 

Having said that I wont run them on my bike because they have little to no grip in wet, muddy or loose gravel terrain and are quit heavy.

 

I am quite fond of my Vittoria tyres as they give a good combonation between strenght, grip and little rolling resistance. Would however not mind giving the ONZA's a go to see what the hype is about.I must admit, I quite like the tread pattern on both the CANIS and IBEX models, they look very grippy.

 

Sent from my S40 using Tapatalk

 

Don't want to hijack this fred but anyone have any experience with the Crossmark 'II' tyres?

 

post-271-0-56258000-1462772701_thumb.jpg

Posted

Don't want to hijack this fred but anyone have any experience with the Crossmark 'II' tyres?

 

attachicon.gifmaxxis-Crossmark-II-mountain-bike-tires02.jpg

Supposedly enhanced grip (not that difficult to achieve) with the presence of harder middle knobs also in a different design to retain better rolling resistance. 

 

First off, it looks a helluva lot better and the knobs seem to be more widely spaced, which is a good thing 

Posted (edited)

Just completed the Gravel & Grape on a set of Onza Canis - the "toilet paper version"

 

For those who do not know, the Gravel & Grape takes part in the Breede River Valley, and each day you spend at least a 3rd of your ride going through un-manicured, rockey footpaths and trails. A lot more testing terrain than what the regular Cape Town events offer.

 

On day one, I had my bit of bad luck, when I cut the beading of the tire, which is a true recipe for disaster, as one cannot plug it - it is normally a very tiny cut on the beading itself, just where it enters / meets the rim. Some proper sealant took care of the cut, and I did not have any other problems for that stage, or the rest of the event.

 

The other two stages, was ironically also full of sections of very gnarly rocks waiting to cause havoc, but the tires took everything that came their way.

 

VERY happy with them, again, if the sidewalls withstood the trails of the Breede Valley, it sure is a compliment.

 

Have not read any of the other comments above, but as for tires, I personally believe, if it is your day, it is your day - yes, lighter tires will add more risk, but I have seen my friends on the so called bulletproof tires, get sidewall cuts, whilst I was riding the same events, with a lighter tire (thinner sidewall), without issues.

Edited by GoFastORGoHome
Posted

 

 

Have not read any of the other comments above, but as for tires, I personally believe, if it is your day, it is your day - yes, lighter tires will add more risk, but I have seen my friends on the so called bulletproof tires, get sidewall cuts, whilst I was riding the same events, with a lighter tire (thinner sidewall), without issues.

yep. One bad line is all it takes

Posted

Generally it is easier for most riders to choose a good line with their front tyres. The rear tyre carrying their full weight just bashes into everything and catches sharp rocks etc. It then just becomes luck of the draw if you are riding lightweight tyres. My wife loves the Canis on her Pascoe but for me it's way too light for trail riding.

 

FTR my rear tyre is a dual ply sidewall WTB Trailboss at over 1kg. But the sidewall is properly think and reinforced for hectic trail riding and enduro racing. It's almost like a run flat :lol:

Posted

Just completed the Gravel & Grape on a set of Onza Canis - the "toilet paper version"

 

For those who do not know, the Gravel & Grape takes part in the Breede River Valley, and each day you spend at least a 3rd of your ride going through un-manicured, rockey footpaths and trails. A lot more testing terrain than what the regular Cape Town events offer.

 

On day one, I had my bit of bad luck, when I cut the beading of the tire, which is a true recipe for disaster, as one cannot plug it - it is normally a very tiny cut on the beading itself, just where it enters / meets the rim. Some proper sealant took care of the cut, and I did not have any other problems for that stage, or the rest of the event.

 

The other two stages, was ironically also full of sections of very gnarly rocks waiting to cause havoc, but the tires took everything that came their way.

 

VERY happy with them, again, if the sidewalls withstood the trails of the Breede Valley, it sure is a compliment.

 

Have not read any of the other comments above, but as for tires, I personally believe, if it is your day, it is your day - yes, lighter tires will add more risk, but I have seen my friends on the so called bulletproof tires, get sidewall cuts, whilst I was riding the same events, with a lighter tire (thinner sidewall), without issues.

 

Cuts at the beaded are indicative of too low a pressure or a not so forgiving rim. Which rims are you using?

Posted

Generally it is easier for most riders to choose a good line with their front tyres. The rear tyre carrying their full weight just bashes into everything and catches sharp rocks etc. It then just becomes luck of the draw if you are riding lightweight tyres. My wife loves the Canis on her Pascoe but for me it's way too light for trail riding.

 

FTR my rear tyre is a dual ply sidewall WTB Trailboss at over 1kg. But the sidewall is properly think and reinforced for hectic trail riding and enduro racing. It's almost like a run flat :lol:

This.

 

Next tyre I'm getting is definitely having thicker sidewalls than my current hans dampf snakeskin. Super Gravity or DH casings, please. 

 

Just wish the Canis was available locally in the FR casing. 

Posted

Cuts at the beaded are indicative of too low a pressure or a not so forgiving rim. Which rims are you using?

 

Running a pair of carbon hoops - they are the business...BUT I do plead guilty to the charge of low pressure, the price you pay when looking for all the grip you can get out of a tire. But then again, have been riding that pressure all the time, and this was my first ever cut on the beading....perhaps just my bad luck, with a little contribution by the low air pressure. 

Posted

Schwalbes mostly, both Racing R & Rocket R, both are SS. Have tried an IKON for the TK at the back to gain on less rolling resistance - kept it on for yesterday's Trucape - had no issues.

i also tried those ikons twice already and they both de-laminated. maybe it was just a bad batch. in fact i still have those tyres at home with about 95% tread left. i rendered those tyres useless for tubeless systems. it will however still work with a tube.

Posted (edited)

Generally it is easier for most riders to choose a good line with their front tyres. The rear tyre carrying their full weight just bashes into everything and catches sharp rocks etc. It then just becomes luck of the draw if you are riding lightweight tyres. My wife loves the Canis on her Pascoe but for me it's way too light for trail riding.

 

FTR my rear tyre is a dual ply sidewall WTB Trailboss at over 1kg. But the sidewall is properly think and reinforced for hectic trail riding and enduro racing. It's almost like a run flat :lol:

 

I had a couple of rimstrikes at Phambili the other day, did not check tyre pressure prior to ride (my hangover was making it difficult to bend over) was riding at 1.2 on the WTB Trailboss.

 

Each time it happened I thought "oh crap" but the tire took it in it's stride. Definitely worth it's weight.

Edited by RocknRolla
Posted (edited)

Just don't get the 120tpi

Damn straight. 

 

I never realised how much grip you can get from a tyre until I tried the Canis (front and rear). It had me quietly eating my "grip doesn't matter" words. Especially after riding Crossmarks for such a long time, the difference, or should I say improvement, is vast. You can do more power climbing while standing and it just does not spin. 

 

That said my new love affair with Canis came to an abrupt end after less than 500km. In the five years that I have been taking part in events I have never ever quit a single one until now. Perhaps the 60tpi ones will last longer, but I doubt they will outlast a Crossmark. 

Edited by Rouxenator
Posted (edited)

nothing outlasts a crossmark.

 

if that's the only criteria you look for in a tyre then you won't wrong.

 

I was never any good at figure skating. I do prefer to use tyres that actually grip.

 

PS: nothing wrong with Canis 120tpi casing if you run enough air in them. Helps to weight less than 75kg too. This would hold true for any light weight casing tyre

Edited by raptor-22

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