Post your woodwork here

[Hairy]

If it has been treated previously I would go with raw but thinned down with terps. Raw linseed stays tacky longer but it will eventually dry or you could give it a good wipe with terps and a rag.

What are your thoughts on the supposed "teak oils" that they sell?

[Rocket-Boy]

If it has been treated previously I would go with raw but thinned down with terps. Raw linseed stays tacky longer but it will eventually dry or you could give it a good wipe with terps and a rag.

I thought that raw linseed was a non-drying oil without the additives that make "boiled" linseed oil?

 

Either way I would start with terps and a rag for a good wipe down followed by a light sanding.

Im a massive fan of Danish oil but it isnt good for outdoor projects.

[Rocket-Boy]

What are your thoughts on the supposed "teak oils" that they sell?

Those are penetrating oils, they work well but need to be re-applied every few months.

I would use BLO before teak oil personally.

[patches]

A handy little 3D print for painting/varnishing/oiling smaller woodwork pieces.

 

 

I guess I could have bought Painters Pyramids, but I'm in lockdown and my 3D printer wasn't doing anything constructive at the time

 

[Rocket-Boy]

A handy little 3D print for painting/varnishing/oiling smaller woodwork pieces.

 

20210303_100453.jpg

 

I guess I could have bought Painters Pyramids, but I'm in lockdown and my 3D printer wasn't doing anything constructive at the time

 

I have those yellow ones but I think Im going to print some more, handy things to have.

[Plentipotential]

If it has been treated previously I would go with raw but thinned down with terps. Raw linseed stays tacky longer but it will eventually dry or you could give it a good wipe with terps and a rag.

 

I have found white spirits (alcohol), mixed with boiled linseed oil, to be better as it does not leave a sticky residue.

[NotSoBigBen]

Winter is coming such as it is on the Highveld, decided to set up a more permanent 'pain cave' so put together this indoor trainer computer stand from the pallet wood I had left over. Feels sturdy enough!

 

Just wait for the wood filler to dry (lots of holes and other blemishes in that wood), last bit of sanding then varnish and try it out ....

Edited March 7, 2021 by NotSoBigBen

[patches]

So the other day I was wandering through the hardware store, just having a gander (as one does), and my gaze fixated on the table saws.

I'm having an internal struggle to justify NOT buying one (based cost and the fact that I have access to a VERY nice Sawstop cabinet saw at my local Men's Shed) and the other part of me that tries to justify buying one (based on convenience, ability to make custom sleds, & jigs, and install dado stacks... all things I can't do for the Sawstop as it is not mine).

 

Anyway, due to space limitations I knew that I could only get away with a jobsite tablle saw, so these were the 2 that I had my eye on:

 

 

Dewalt 7491 - approx. R16,000 once adding the mobile stand

• 254mm blade
• 79mm max cutting depth @90
• 2000W
• Can accept dado stacks
• Rack & pinion fence (nice and sturdy)

 

Hikoki C10RJ - approx R12,000 (stand included in package)

 

• 250mm blade
• also 79mm max cutting depth @90
• 1500W
• Can accept dado stacks
• also rack & pinion fence (nice and sturdy)

Initially I was hell bent on the Dewalt as that's what most of the reviews recommend. However it seems that's just because Dewalt has such a big following in the US, and reviews on the Hikoki are also good, and hey, about R4000 equivalent cheaper!

 

So... I looked at my finances, ummed & aaahed, set a savings plan....

 

...then BAM! Last night as an impulse purchase, disregarded ALL the planning, reviews and research I had done and bought one of these as it was a sweet deal!

 

 

Makita 2704 - approx R13,000 (new, excl stand)

 

• 260mm blade
• 90mm max cutting depth @90
• 1650W
• Can accept dado stacks (with aftermarket Makita arbour flanges)
• no rack & pinion fence, but dual locking (so way more sturdy than the smaller Makita MLT100)

But the best part... I found one, second hand, light use for DIY work, and the guy was willing to sell it for around the R3500 mark!

 

So yeah, I'll go pick it up this weekend, and see how it fares!

[Ed-Zulu]

So the other day I was wandering through the hardware store, just having a gander (as one does), and my gaze fixated on the table saws.

 

I'm having an internal struggle to justify NOT buying one (based cost and the fact that I have access to a VERY nice Sawstop cabinet saw at my local Men's Shed) and the other part of me that tries to justify buying one (based on convenience, ability to make custom sleds, & jigs, and install dado stacks... all things I can't do for the Sawstop as it is not mine).

 

Anyway, due to space limitations I knew that I could only get away with a jobsite tablle saw, so these were the 2 that I had my eye on:

 

 

Dewalt 7491 - approx. R16,000 once adding the mobile stand

• 254mm blade
• 79mm max cutting depth @90
• 2000W
• Can accept dado stacks
• Rack & pinion fence (nice and sturdy)

 

Hikoki C10RJ - approx R12,000 (stand included in package)

 

• 250mm blade
• also 79mm max cutting depth @90
• 1500W
• Can accept dado stacks
• also rack & pinion fence (nice and sturdy)

Initially I was hell bent on the Dewalt as that's what most of the reviews recommend. However it seems that's just because Dewalt has such a big following in the US, and reviews on the Hikoki are also good, and hey, about R4000 equivalent cheaper!

 

So... I looked at my finances, ummed & aaahed, set a savings plan....

 

...then BAM! Last night as an impulse purchase, disregarded ALL the planning, reviews and research I had done and bought one of these as it was a sweet deal!

 

 

Makita 2704 - approx R13,000 (new, excl stand)

 

• 260mm blade
• 90mm max cutting depth @90
• 1650W
• Can accept dado stacks (with aftermarket Makita arbour flanges)
• no rack & pinion fence, but dual locking (so way more sturdy than the smaller Makita MLT100)

But the best part... I found one, second hand, light use for DIY work, and the guy was willing to sell it for around the R3500 mark!

 

So yeah, I'll go pick it up this weekend, and see how it fares!

You'll be pleased with it, I have the model one size up and it's a peach!

 

We unfortunately get the short arbor in South Africa (Euro models) and can't fit dado stacks. Happy cutting and jig making!

[Rocket-Boy]

So the other day I was wandering through the hardware store, just having a gander (as one does), and my gaze fixated on the table saws.

 

I'm having an internal struggle to justify NOT buying one (based cost and the fact that I have access to a VERY nice Sawstop cabinet saw at my local Men's Shed) and the other part of me that tries to justify buying one (based on convenience, ability to make custom sleds, & jigs, and install dado stacks... all things I can't do for the Sawstop as it is not mine).

 

Anyway, due to space limitations I knew that I could only get away with a jobsite tablle saw, so these were the 2 that I had my eye on:

 

 

Nice mate, that Makita is a good quality saw.

Its pretty much between that and the Bosch in SA.

 

There is a Saffa on youtube that has one built into a very multi-function workbench and he loves it.

 

*edit*

I forgot to mention, the jigs are really what make these saws useful.

I have a bunch of sleds from crosscut to wedgie and they make any saw a lot more useful.

Heck even the no name brand saw I picked up 2nd hand for R600 is dead on accurate with the sleds.

Edited March 12, 2021 by Rocket-Boy

[patches]

You'll be pleased with it, I have the model one size up and it's a peach!

 

We unfortunately get the short arbor in South Africa (Euro models) and can't fit dado stacks. Happy cutting and jig making!

 

I was reading on some Australian forum and they also seemed to think the arbour length was the limitation, but then someone mentioned that there's a flange kit that allows dados on the on the arbour.

 

This one I think:

 

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/192693-8

 

Perhaps that may work?!

 

Are dado stacks illegal in South Africa? I believe they are in some European countries, and maybe the SA version of the saw is based on those and they did indeed shorten the arbour so that even the flange set won't work.

 

In the US one can apparently only use a dado stack if there is no alternate, safer, method to accomplish the cut (ie. a router).

[Plentipotential]

A separate router has got to be a better option. Not expensive either. 

[Ed-Zulu]

I was reading on some Australian forum and they also seemed to think the arbour length was the limitation, but then someone mentioned that there's a flange kit that allows dados on the on the arbour.

 

This one I think:

 

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/192693-8

 

Perhaps that may work?!

 

Are dado stacks illegal in South Africa? I believe they are in some European countries, and maybe the SA version of the saw is based on those and they did indeed shorten the arbour so that even the flange set won't work.

 

In the US one can apparently only use a dado stack if there is no alternate, safer, method to accomplish the cut (ie. a router).

I don't really know if dado stacks are illegal here, but it is definately not widely sold by the retailers or at all. The short arbor on the machines probably is the answer to this.

 

I once found a stack on BidorBuy which I evetually passed onto a visiting mate who resided in the US. Based on the multitude of US Youtubers woodworking channels that uses the dado stacks it does look like that rule is very elastic.

[stefmeister]

I don't really know if dado stacks are illegal here, but it is definately not widely sold by the retailers or at all. The short arbor on the machines probably is the answer to this.

 

I once found a stack on BidorBuy which I evetually passed onto a visiting mate who resided in the US. Based on the multitude of US Youtubers woodworking channels that uses the dado stacks it does look like that rule is very elastic.

It's not illegal afaik, as they're occasionally available here. 

I think it's got more to do with your previous post, being US (120V, 60hz) spec vs Euro (220-240V) that we receive over here.

 

 

A separate router has got to be a better option. Not expensive either. 

A dado stack blade is much more efficient than a router bit, and has little to no regard for grain direction, slow feed rate and tear out. 

[patches]

So I collected the Makita, gave it a clean-up, put in a new 32T blade, squared everything up as best as I could and gave it a whirl!

 

First mini-project was making a kubb set from some treated pine fence posts (100mm x 100mm x1800mm).

 

 

 

Kubb for those who haven't played or seen it before.

 

 

All set up. The seller included the little stand/table.

 

Original fence post Left. Trimmed down version on right. Cleaned up all the sides to give a 70x70mm profile for the kubbs. The king will be 90x90x300mm

 

The kubbs cut down (on the mitre saw) to their rough size, 70x70x150mm

 

So yeah, first impressions from a quick test after work... so far so good!

 

PS. all that sawdust on the lawn is from using an electric hand plane to slim down a fence posts, prior to the acquisition of the table saw. Table saw is so much easier!

Edited March 15, 2021 by patches

[Tuxstir]

Please help, I need to Identify this wood, I'm Assuming Kiaat. 

we have a fussy client who rejected this piece and we need to replace it,