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Posted

A mixture of boredom and frustration with all the little router bit containers cluttering my router case led me to whip up quick and nasty solution

image.png.2105057a81fed99a6617970d90589e79.png

image.png.b98a063266c35503d59c25e9f23355a4.png

12mm ply. 30 deg angle. rubber on underside to grip bits. ghetto labelling.

image.png.1f252778adc664d647522f6314bc9018.png

Key slots on back to make it easily removable from Makpac case.

If it does the job well, I may put some effort into making a neater one, haha!

  • 1 month later...
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Posted (edited)

Finally started on my Festool MFT cart. Managed to get the basic structure done in 2x half days.

image.png.9a524de2f6b41cab41d5ecb5e8526c4d.png

The basic shell, from 18mm ply using pocket-holes (I know, blasphemous, but I was lazy, haha). The central spine keeps the majority of the base pretty rigid.

 

image.png.c82cb65128d14fce835bb239ce667e79.png

image.png.e75fe0721ad6a0585232e1b60780590e.png

Added 2x 50mm deep beams underneath to extend the stiffening the full length. Doubles as storage for my 1.4m and 1m guide rails.

 

image.png.05ce74ac18b75b9bbcceedde69703162.png

Added the "side shelf" for resting track saws an other tools outta the way and housing the vacuum.

A little high (1022mm), but I'm just under 6'2" and my back often gets sore when hunching over doing fiddly work at the regular height (815mm).

 

image.png.ec7e2bb35a8f0f023f1f66636a1ee2b8.png

The big AEG toolbox doesn't quite fit, but close enough. It may get swapped out for a systainer at some stage

And finally... the other neat purpose of the side shelf and reason for the very specific heights...

 image.png.7f6b97d5c76eaeae0e5e392a1d61ac85.png

The extended setup! at 2440 x 780 it should be sufficient to manage an entire sheet of ply.

Still loads more to do. The systainers will each go on shallow drawers so allow access without unstacking. Also going to make some general drawers for other tools, fasteners, adhesives, etc. But in general, pretty happy with the result so far.

Edited by patches
Posted
On 3/27/2022 at 6:01 AM, patches said:

Finally started on my Festool MFT cart. Managed to get the basic structure done in 2x half days.

image.png.9a524de2f6b41cab41d5ecb5e8526c4d.png

The basic shell, from 18mm ply using pocket-holes (I know, blasphemous, but I was lazy, haha). The central spine keeps the majority of the base pretty rigid.

 

image.png.c82cb65128d14fce835bb239ce667e79.png

image.png.e75fe0721ad6a0585232e1b60780590e.png

Added 2x 50mm deep beams underneath to extend the stiffening the full length. Doubles as storage for my 1.4m and 1m guide rails.

 

image.png.05ce74ac18b75b9bbcceedde69703162.png

Added the "side shelf" for resting track saws an other tools outta the way and housing the vacuum.

A little high (1022mm), but I'm just under 6'2" and my back often gets sore when hunching over doing fiddly work at the regular height (815mm).

 

image.png.ec7e2bb35a8f0f023f1f66636a1ee2b8.png

The big AEG toolbox doesn't quite fit, but close enough. It may get swapped out for a systainer at some stage

And finally... the other neat purpose of the side shelf and reason for the very specific heights...

 image.png.7f6b97d5c76eaeae0e5e392a1d61ac85.png

The extended setup! at 2440 x 780 it should be sufficient to manage an entire sheet of ply.

Still loads more to do. The systainers will each go on shallow drawers so allow access without unstacking. Also going to make some general drawers for other tools, fasteners, adhesives, etc. But in general, pretty happy with the result so far.

Very well done, pocket holes are perfectly fine.
If it was to be sold I would expect dovetail joints at least, then again nowadays you just buy a dovetail bit for a router and it probably is quicker than the pocket holes.......

Posted (edited)
On 3/28/2022 at 7:17 PM, Steven Knoetze (sk27) said:

Very well done, pocket holes are perfectly fine.
If it was to be sold I would expect dovetail joints at least, then again nowadays you just buy a dovetail bit for a router and it probably is quicker than the pocket holes.......

If Youtube has taught me anything, it's that unless you're using a Festool Domino, your project is going to fall apart, catch on fire, and likely result in a lawsuit. 😅

Also, I'm clearly not ready to go pro yet as I was lured into a sweet deal on an even faster pocket-hole jig... I just didn't have the patience to wait for it to get here before building this workbench.

Edited by patches
Posted
On 3/29/2022 at 5:33 AM, patches said:

If Youtube has taught me anything, it's that unless you're using a Festool Domino, your project is going to fall apart, catch on fire, and likely result in a lawsuit. 😅

Also, I'm clearly not ready to go pro yet as I was lured into a sweet deal on an even faster pocket-hole jig... I just didn't have the patience to wait for it to get here before building this workbench.

Hi, I'm Philip, and I'm an unashamed Pocket Hole Philistine. 

Posted
On 4/2/2022 at 4:42 AM, PhilipV said:

Hi, I'm Philip, and I'm an unashamed Pocket Hole Philistine. 

Hi Philip!

The first step is admitting that you'd rather just gooi a quick sakgat than faff with anything more traditional 😅

Speaking of which, I got to test out the new pocket-hole jig (Armortool  Auto-Jig) this weekend. Not bad. Great dust collection. Decent clamping, although I may need to fashion up some support wings to prevent bigger boards from cantilevering off the side. I don't know if it saved me tons of time over the little Kreg one, but may be a different story once I mount properly with side suports etc.

 

Self-Setting Jig = Super-Simple Pocket Screws

Posted (edited)

Despite being away for most of the weekend, I made sure we got home early to "prepare for the week" or rather, tinker in the garage.

Managed to get 3 drawers built and installed for the MFT cart. 

 

image.png.cbe8c08d080b6e1e2127a4828d9a902c.png

image.png.21d378c6d52ba76834b87e4db51e0ea4.png

Started off my making an MDF template to notch recesses for both Makita and Festool systainer feet.

The built some quick simple drawers with glue and brad nails. Used spacers to install the runners (soft close 😎) ... and viola!

image.png.1b2cf70f14221f28ec22943e038e6b67.png

image.png.773c71d89d4944cf364cdd645bc3c7f8.png

So 3 done, many more to go

image.png.fb67ff22a36df72a463de3d4c0887d70.png

 

Edited by patches
Posted
4 hours ago, patches said:

Hi Philip!

The first step is admitting that you'd rather just gooi a quick sakgat than faff with anything more traditional 😅

Speaking of which, I got to test out the new pocket-hole jig (Armortool  Auto-Jig) this weekend. Not bad. Great dust collection. Decent clamping, although I may need to fashion up some support wings to prevent bigger boards from cantilevering off the side. I don't know if it saved me tons of time over the little Kreg one, but may be a different story once I mount properly with side suports etc.

 

Self-Setting Jig = Super-Simple Pocket Screws

It was easy after I realized that I'm no Jonathan Katz-Moses, and I'm mostly building outdoor furniture out of Pallet wood. 

That will definitely save you time, and you know how much your time is worth when consulting, so as soon as you add that up, the Auto-Jig becomes a bargain. True Story. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

this looks like a decent project for one of you .... the only point of failure I can see off hand is the nut set into the wood that could spin loose in the wood if too much force is applied.
 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I wouldn't quite call this woodwork more like wood-messing-around.

But after some recent tool purchases I found myself moving onto a 7th tool platform. My previous charging station didn't include 3 of the chargers so I decided it was time for a revamp as the bench was getting cluttered.

So I took some leftover form-ply from a concrete countertop pour and cobbled together this work in progress.

It has chargers for my 6 most used battery types (Ryobi being the one not pictured, but I'm slowly phasing out my Ryobi tools). I have dual charging capacity for tools that take 2x18V (like my AEG mower, or Makita track saw)

IMG_7942.jpg.49d20978671cb4eaf169600f71deb0c2.jpg

It's still a work in progress. The cable management needs to be refined. Currently nothing is fastened down as I still want chargers to accessible and easily removable should I need to travel with them.

I was thinking of battery storage on the lower 3rd, but I may have to come up with a creative idea as I may have too many (and still plan on getting more 😅)

IMG_7844.jpg.572ba83efb27d6f2cc3de7da2a3f0b87.jpg

Anyone got any great space saving battery storage ideas? 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Router Noob Question:

I recently purchased a drawer-pull router bit router bit which says for router table or CNC use, not for use in hand routers.

As I do not have a router table or CNC, is it totally irresponsible and potentially catastrophic to use this in a hand router with a really side base?

The bit looks like this:

image.png.f820efd55d69a8daf30f79148fbdf12f.png

 

My router looks like this:

724F0E65-DF05-4A12-8542-CCC099FF52DB.jpeg.d197003b25b75e581df3acef990d3e7f.jpeg

I can flip the router upside down and clamp to a workbench as a makeshift router table (as shown below), but not sure if that's better or worse than using it upright with this particular bit:

5ADBC6B6-831C-4208-9E13-FE71C87CFC32.jpeg.f0f3ec28eba7e77e9ab50d243025174c.jpeg

Edited by patches
Posted
9 hours ago, patches said:

Router Noob Question:

I recently purchased a drawer-pull router bit router bit which says for router table or CNC use, not for use in hand routers.

As I do not have a router table or CNC, is it totally irresponsible and potentially catastrophic to use this in a hand router with a really side base?

The bit looks like this:

image.png.f820efd55d69a8daf30f79148fbdf12f.png

 

My router looks like this:

nddU0xV67s4FCW-cvIdLOZcijM9KVkfexkOKlwpmbQDNM2vgznQnw8b7Co5hO7tGa9gzWt7Vh1wAhgkKFOcUg6PTe1Wdbl2x1F3Q4EJNorEPfDyRNl9pzMAy2HZpT9B42AZUfrtWagmIdRr2jrpYDEx4gWd8wvbw1MMu-ho0-h1kFaWl6T9KR62exLndJKCaCupqz_1Q7F8ZoeUTjtmInHqM3IKf47et-WE6jlbQg8q4GqBQ7SnWtY5MsIfC_u-d4xs5uChQfFmIivBoBzYZjgfOKwbHhL_ZdCeASO7_Yo9Ojl6Jy7_ZDu7NJLF_u3cXrIWZ33wVciITe1veHkHm0S3C8TBOYce23URGC6veZN9WoQdsM8mEStwr6S6kHdHGyiONzB6F7evbyyuH3bD4Sn6wW_a5pDE02FdX7mLr6iROxDJe9NRdyroXD2qsiy4k20UQi_irHGNZH5tPkEI54ZKgqvovIA6snLY1oHIjGDTKkCTk8E4cuzUyqFarbXicaIWpykf-a8npBZKHBf9BF90Ct9taWvvNnwcWroZTrHUyx_sj1yAFnjWNYzkDgbqYDNs_5dkkW9i3bT0qQmUnR0XTcv3JhI8wAVc4lBsvMJhsOxLESKsCOjuKJxm8NHk14u3UEYFscpEm_QfVdTb7OLUiS-z1F5-sGLo8bkHk88kGEAhcgrn4Pub5R-ulwIpDT1IPfzTYT7qt9b2u3eoKT2cyaORKdUiaLFL6murZ0ZcEXmw1axV-bsLeB-fI=w1094-h820-no?authuser=0

I can flip the router upside down and clamp to a workbench as a makeshift router table (as shown below), but not sure if that's better or worse than using it upright with this particular bit:

gIwGscttfKkLoV53dDRwqrz7U1JSXiUX9qV766jhFNCQ_xPTCgQYjUH517JGSKNwWD2QGrBIXMNDNuA-XwAAggdpdcwApcHHxPzyFa-1wO0FNBMYxKsYA54wrtOg7r54sN1Bc_Tmy0Fg8j4J6aqrrx7mH3_ROY9yjzt3V8BUfGamahS-tm4TGnBPz2jeU5ofA2HBk6mZbI223EdvsTIqcS8UQgvls6OMzDkV1TXEhjPHOqFow3sO04I2aIxN40PIWM5VrxX5p2RZVWKMrWvLmBYkUYT5z-Q9NeuCgf2IkxhZYI7UgOMUfy48AJBNb_TW1iWywMnWzhTQrtTUgQPZgUMDpBFOdsZPQ0msTwm_OXwFrmIqRd8jZqK2UAga15JQMZF-xAGdOTPE2XK_li0zWBSOTP1-dkz-h6ldEQDPEcsuuYo9qr0TA0M8yRpEZub4Bfk0nf8X87fB3vsjv4GURvdOI2XqL89CDg9FKYqiPI8WUEpCL5W6D6Iwvvq7QdVdD8h7RbDth-L0QJaaBf1fR6LmjDAKjEbJ5BJ2Irh3m0XGDfg_eQ3V7KfwYN7hGxQlEYJJ2NdgeuUMKEgEXTfJLLJ4CTHReCy1cs1_xJ-4PtB8oeRCN96z7OvhAYHYfAQ6H15S0HFUJaymOkHi3s8bbHodrAE19evmEnbTJDW1vVSrhyH-OLimQsHPr7JaxOwczSdg51ZO7Zkj8NrpMX2URY1oXMcSzHc7ucQBhMxVhesiYSaiuDYZCES_IBwd=w1094-h820-no?authuser=0

Can't see the 2nd and 3rd pic but assuming its a DIY hack of sorts.

Routers are pretty dangerous tools, people underestimate the damage they can cause.

Posted
10 hours ago, patches said:

Router Noob Question:

I recently purchased a drawer-pull router bit router bit which says for router table or CNC use, not for use in hand routers.

As I do not have a router table or CNC, is it totally irresponsible and potentially catastrophic to use this in a hand router with a really side base?

The bit looks like this:

image.png.f820efd55d69a8daf30f79148fbdf12f.png

 

My router looks like this:

nddU0xV67s4FCW-cvIdLOZcijM9KVkfexkOKlwpmbQDNM2vgznQnw8b7Co5hO7tGa9gzWt7Vh1wAhgkKFOcUg6PTe1Wdbl2x1F3Q4EJNorEPfDyRNl9pzMAy2HZpT9B42AZUfrtWagmIdRr2jrpYDEx4gWd8wvbw1MMu-ho0-h1kFaWl6T9KR62exLndJKCaCupqz_1Q7F8ZoeUTjtmInHqM3IKf47et-WE6jlbQg8q4GqBQ7SnWtY5MsIfC_u-d4xs5uChQfFmIivBoBzYZjgfOKwbHhL_ZdCeASO7_Yo9Ojl6Jy7_ZDu7NJLF_u3cXrIWZ33wVciITe1veHkHm0S3C8TBOYce23URGC6veZN9WoQdsM8mEStwr6S6kHdHGyiONzB6F7evbyyuH3bD4Sn6wW_a5pDE02FdX7mLr6iROxDJe9NRdyroXD2qsiy4k20UQi_irHGNZH5tPkEI54ZKgqvovIA6snLY1oHIjGDTKkCTk8E4cuzUyqFarbXicaIWpykf-a8npBZKHBf9BF90Ct9taWvvNnwcWroZTrHUyx_sj1yAFnjWNYzkDgbqYDNs_5dkkW9i3bT0qQmUnR0XTcv3JhI8wAVc4lBsvMJhsOxLESKsCOjuKJxm8NHk14u3UEYFscpEm_QfVdTb7OLUiS-z1F5-sGLo8bkHk88kGEAhcgrn4Pub5R-ulwIpDT1IPfzTYT7qt9b2u3eoKT2cyaORKdUiaLFL6murZ0ZcEXmw1axV-bsLeB-fI=w1094-h820-no?authuser=0

I can flip the router upside down and clamp to a workbench as a makeshift router table (as shown below), but not sure if that's better or worse than using it upright with this particular bit:

gIwGscttfKkLoV53dDRwqrz7U1JSXiUX9qV766jhFNCQ_xPTCgQYjUH517JGSKNwWD2QGrBIXMNDNuA-XwAAggdpdcwApcHHxPzyFa-1wO0FNBMYxKsYA54wrtOg7r54sN1Bc_Tmy0Fg8j4J6aqrrx7mH3_ROY9yjzt3V8BUfGamahS-tm4TGnBPz2jeU5ofA2HBk6mZbI223EdvsTIqcS8UQgvls6OMzDkV1TXEhjPHOqFow3sO04I2aIxN40PIWM5VrxX5p2RZVWKMrWvLmBYkUYT5z-Q9NeuCgf2IkxhZYI7UgOMUfy48AJBNb_TW1iWywMnWzhTQrtTUgQPZgUMDpBFOdsZPQ0msTwm_OXwFrmIqRd8jZqK2UAga15JQMZF-xAGdOTPE2XK_li0zWBSOTP1-dkz-h6ldEQDPEcsuuYo9qr0TA0M8yRpEZub4Bfk0nf8X87fB3vsjv4GURvdOI2XqL89CDg9FKYqiPI8WUEpCL5W6D6Iwvvq7QdVdD8h7RbDth-L0QJaaBf1fR6LmjDAKjEbJ5BJ2Irh3m0XGDfg_eQ3V7KfwYN7hGxQlEYJJ2NdgeuUMKEgEXTfJLLJ4CTHReCy1cs1_xJ-4PtB8oeRCN96z7OvhAYHYfAQ6H15S0HFUJaymOkHi3s8bbHodrAE19evmEnbTJDW1vVSrhyH-OLimQsHPr7JaxOwczSdg51ZO7Zkj8NrpMX2URY1oXMcSzHc7ucQBhMxVhesiYSaiuDYZCES_IBwd=w1094-h820-no?authuser=0

Off cut bit of timber and test it.....just do not force it

Posted

Looks more like they are suggesting a table or CNC because there is no way to keep it at a consistent depth with a handheld (depth in this case meaning along the A dimension in the pic of the bit). You would need the fence on the table or some fancy MacGyver system for the handheld.

Posted
1 hour ago, Hairy said:

Off cut bit of timber and test it.....just do not force it

agree with the recommendation to take multiple passes with shallower cuts, if cutting by hand.
If doing a full depth cut, then strongly recommend a table router setup with a strong motor (not necessarily a spindle cutter).

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