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Posted

You can't Zwift on a PC with Bluetooth directly?

Download the zwift app on your phone, and start it before loading zwift. Then it will show the Bluetooth sensors which are picked up by your phone. I didn't recommend that to cadenceblur as I thought the powertaps did either ant or BLE but not both.

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Posted

Download the zwift app on your phone, and start it before loading zwift. Then it will show the Bluetooth sensors which are picked up by your phone. I didn't recommend that to cadenceblur as I thought the powertaps did either ant or BLE but not both.

 

No but that goes through your phone through your network to the PC, which has huge lag.

Posted

No but that goes through your phone through your network to the PC, which has huge lag.

Correct, though I haven't tested the lag. What antstick are you using?

Posted

Thanks for the link madbradd!

My Kickr 2 drops the power signal on average once per every Zwift ride for about 2 seconds or so. I'm using Ant+ on a screened extension cable to USB 3 port on my laptop.

Just checked the power saving setting in the USB Root Hub and had to un-tick the check box to allow the computer to switch of the device to save power.

 

Will try it tonight to see if any difference, I doubt it as the cadence and HR sensors don't drop out, but it's worth a try.

Posted (edited)

Yeah I've also now unticked the USB Power Save option, will give it a bash tomorrow. Thanks!!!

 

Edit: Come to think of it, it's possible that the days I'm not having issues, the laptop is plugged into AC power.

Edited by bertusras
Posted

Thanks for the link madbradd!

My Kickr 2 drops the power signal on average once per every Zwift ride for about 2 seconds or so. I'm using Ant+ on a screened extension cable to USB 3 port on my laptop.

Just checked the power saving setting in the USB Root Hub and had to un-tick the check box to allow the computer to switch of the device to save power.

 

Will try it tonight to see if any difference, I doubt it as the cadence and HR sensors don't drop out, but it's worth a try.

 

Great news that the link may have helped! Excited for a reportback.

 

As I've stated, using a new antstick helped me. But I changed to a different brand so it may be less sensitive to the USB power issue. 

Posted

Yeah I've also now unticked the USB Power Save option, will give it a bash tomorrow. Thanks!!!

 

Edit: Come to think of it, it's possible that the days I'm not having issues, the laptop is plugged into AC power.

 

Good luck! I hope it sorts it out! Eagerly awaiting feedback.

Posted (edited)

How does zwift handle hills if you don't have a smart trainer?

 

For instance if you ride in a group and hit a climb, if you don't up the resistance manually to get the wattage will you just see your avatar get dropped?

 

And how does the software know what resistance/wattage is right for a climb? 

 

I'll be using a ant+ dongle and my powermeter for data

 

My smart trainer was stolen so I'm back in the stone age now :(

Edited by Jurgens Smit
Posted

How does zwift handle hills if you don't have a smart trainer?

 

For instance if you ride in a group and hit a climb, if you don't up the resistance manually to get the wattage will you just see your avatar get dropped?

 

And how does the software know what resistance/wattage is right for a climb? 

 

I'll be using a ant+ dongle and my powermeter for data

 

My smart trainer was stolen so I'm back in the stone age now :(

Its all power to weight. Zwift will adjust your speed based on that. You just control the power

Posted (edited)

So you input FTP and weight and the rest is done for you?

 

FTP is not required. As long as your personal settings are correct, Zwift manages it automatically. I also started out with a dumb, smart trainer (Satori Smart) which didn't control the resistance. So if I felt like it I could meander up Zwift mountain at 120W in an easy gear and low HR, without having to actually fight against the 7% gradient, however at a measly 5kph or something like that. It's essentially the same as if you were to hit a climb in ERG mode, it completely ignores the gradient and doesn't affect how hard you need to pedal, you just go slower.

 

Edit: And that's why weight is important in Zwift. Some people (cheaters) will put their weight much lower than it is, and then blast up climbs at 7w/kg, which Zwift obviously can't compensate for.

Edited by bertusras
Posted

So you input FTP and weight and the rest is done for you?

You only input FTP for reference to your workouts. Zwift adjusts your intervals based on the percentages required for the workout interval.

 

It uses your instantaneous power reading, your weight and the instantaneous course variables (gradient, equipment, drafting, current speed etc) to determine your instantaneous speed/acceleration etc.

 

So when you get to a climb, you will need to pedal faster to climb with the group (if the wattage of the riders in the group increases). If their wattage stays the same, then you just need to maintain power.

Posted (edited)

You only input FTP for reference to your workouts. Zwift adjusts your intervals based on the percentages required for the workout interval.

 

It uses your instantaneous power reading, your weight and the instantaneous course variables (gradient, equipment, drafting, current speed etc) to determine your instantaneous speed/acceleration etc.

 

So when you get to a climb, you will need to pedal faster to climb with the group (if the wattage of the riders in the group increases). If their wattage stays the same, then you just need to maintain power.

 

So would I need to ideally have a speed sensor as well?

 

Edit - PM does cadence as well

Edited by Jurgens Smit
Posted

So would I need to ideally have a speed sensor as well?

 

Edit - PM does cadence as well

No because you have a power reading. It only uses the power to calculate your virtual speed.

 

Zwift does allow for a speed+cadence mode on specific trainers and extrapolates a "zpower" from that, but that's only for if you don't have a powermeter or smart trainer.

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