Gravel bikes - what do you have and where did you buy it?

[The Ghost]

Awesome bike, sure you will have many happy km's on it . I was also looking at what options etc when I arrive. Is pricing roughly same as in SA? Been on chain reaction cycles website as they based in Belfast and trying to gauge pricing vs specialized.

Thanks.

Roughly the same yes, if I recall I paid €3 800 for it before adding things like tubeless conversion, spares etc.

All the Spez euro stores seem to have the same pricing which is also pretty much 1:1 with US pricing so you can look on any of those for indicative pricing.

[capediver]

Anyone with gpx or Strava links to gravel rides in the Sir Lowry's/Schapenberg/Lourensford/Hottentots Dome bowl area....public open free to ride gravel/jeep tracks......??

Edited July 2, 2020 by capediver

[Patchelicious]

Anyone with gpx or Strava links to gravel rides in the Sir Lowry's/Schapenberg/Lourensford/Hottentots Dome bowl area....public open free to ride gravel/jeep tracks......??

I don’t think there is much, but the Wannabes trail from Somerset to Stellies is doable on a Gravel Bike.

[LazyTrailRider]

The Diverge now sports GRX 1x and a 460mm/25deg Spank Vibrocore bar with some fresh new S-Wrap Roubaix tape.

 

I've also sourced a set of Pathfinder 38c tanwall rubber which still needs to go on, and then need to take it out for its first post-upgrade ride (my Stumpy got the ride attention this weekend)...

 

[Monark]

The Diverge now sports GRX 1x and a 460mm/25deg Spank Vibrocore bar with some fresh new S-Wrap Roubaix tape.

 

I've also sourced a set of Pathfinder 38c tanwall rubber which still needs to go on, and then need to take it out for its first post-upgrade ride (my Stumpy got the ride attention this weekend)...

 

IMG_2591.jpg

Those bars are great

[Nick_A]

Anyone with gpx or Strava links to gravel rides in the Sir Lowry's/Schapenberg/Lourensford/Hottentots Dome bowl area....public open free to ride gravel/jeep tracks......??

 

 

I don’t think there is much, but the Wannabes trail from Somerset to Stellies is doable on a Gravel Bike.

 

I've been in Somerset West for half of lockdown and ridden the Wannabees trail quite a bit and kept thinking you could have good fun on there with a gravel bike!

[Grease_Monkey]

I've been in Somerset West for half of lockdown and ridden the Wannabees trail quite a bit and kept thinking you could have good fun on there with a gravel bike!

It is propper fun on a gravel bike. There is even a dedicated gravel bike route. Whilst everything is rideable on a gravel bike, places like waterworks / Faure is a bit more fun on a hardtail with a suspension fork. But I guess that all depends on your definition of fun.

[capediver]

It is propper fun on a gravel bike. There is even a dedicated gravel bike route. Whilst everything is rideable on a gravel bike, places like waterworks / Faure is a bit more fun on a hardtail with a suspension fork. But I guess that all depends on your definition of fun.

Sounds cool, anybody got gpx route files/strava/Endomondo links for these?

[Grease_Monkey]

Sounds cool, anybody got gpx route files/strava/Endomondo links for these?

My gpx routes wouldn't be of much use because it mainly covers a very small portion of the routes...

 

But here is a link to the trails on Google Maps: https://wannabees.co.za/cycling-routes/ - there is allot to choose from.

[gogo@]

I bought a Farr frame and built with GRX groupset, 105 shifters and rapide wheels. Thought I would change the fork to carbon but absolutely love the bike at the moment. Just perfect for adventure riding.

My "problem" started when I fell in love with that frame...

 

Went for the grey rather than the orange and spent months drooling over it as I figured out how to kit it out.  That was (almost) the best part.

 

Along the way there were many moments of doubt. I definitely bought with my heart, then had to throw my head at it.  But in the end it worked out far far far better than I dreamed.

My thinking (when I got there) was that I wanted something bomb proof that I could fix myself if needed. I also thought if I got stuck building I could drop the whole thing at the bike shop and say "do". But that never happened. Even cutting down the fork steerer I managed myself.

 

The bike is absolutely awesome and rides like a dream. It took a bit of getting used to because of the change in wheel size and the difference in geometry of the frame.  The centre of gravity is lower.  But that means the bike is infinitely stable even in the most vicious cross-winds.  I've actually scored some serious speeds with a tailwind in conditions where no-one else would dare to ride.

 

Circumstances, besides lockdown, have been horrendous since I finished the build so I haven't been able to do any proper long rides yet but I've popped on a carrier and panniers and carted 20 liters (so kg) of water on the back.  That needs balancing out front. But that was just a try-out.  After 500km the brakes need adjustment and that is about all.

The steel fork is also an eye-opener. OK corrugations are horrible but they weren't much worse with my MTB fork either!

 

This is what I went for:

Frame and fork: FARR small (steel)

Bars: Salsa Cowchipper drop bar (42cm) 24 degree sweep (awesome!)

Bar tape: Salsa gel cork with a double wrap layer on the top (flat) bar (you can ride without gloves, extremely comfortable and good grip)

Stem: Salsa guide (80mm, 15mm rise)

Seatpost: Salsa guide (18mm offset)

 

Levers: Ultegra R8000 (11 speed)

Front derailleur: Shimano GRX FD-RX810

Rear derailleur: GRX-RD-RX810 2x11sp

Cassette: 11-34T

Crankset: GRX FC-RX810-2 70mm 48/31T

 

This gearing does everything I want from it which includes some pretty steep climbing.  With the bike's geometry, it's surprisingly good at getting uphill. I thought I'd struggle more with the weight but not so.  With the 48/31 split on the front, it's wicked fast on the flats and has a very friendly granny.

 

It's possible (apparently) to run a wider range cassette but I decided to go with Shimano's limits and see how that works.  My rides include some steep pitches and this set-up covers that easily. No need really to strain the derailleur limits.  Maybe packed for touring that could be an issue.

Installation and set-up was really easy.

 

One thing: the front-derailleur is bottom-pull (road frame style) so a little pulley gadget was needed to convert to the frame's top-pull cable routing.  It's called a problem solver and that's what it does, beautifully.

 

Wheelset: Hope Hoops Pro4 hubs, 27.5", 23mm Tech Enduro rims, through axle.

 

Tyres: Conti: Race King (rear) X-King (front) 2", tubeless, ghetto conversion.

Not light, but bomb proof.

 

The 2" tyres on 27.5" wheels on this frame make for a rather close fit but there is still some room for clearance although I don't think there is much tolerance for mud... but then I don't plan to ride in such conditions.  Thinking was to go for a high-volume wheel set for comfort and control and to get a second 700cm set for road at a later stage.

 

However I don't see a later stage on the horizon any more. These just work. I also have a set of Schwalbe Mondials intended for touring, at some point.  The Contis were an experiment to see if they fit and how they would run. Brilliant. Perfect for the gravel roads here and not too shabby on the tar either. And they sing, two slightly different tunes but in harmony! (What else!)

Oh yes...

 

Brakes: TRP Spyre (mix of flat and post-mount) paired with Ice-tec rotors (160mm)

These are solid, cable-actuated, easy to set up and adjust. One problem: they don't come with the right frame bolts... which I managed to source elsewhere but were a bit of a pain.  It's probably because of frame-specific requirements, but still.  I need to try them under load as when I did my "water run" they were a bit slack as the calipers need adjustment after a 500km run in.

 

The frame has a relatively deep (lengthy) headset which means the space on the frame is ample for water bottles and bags.  It's also what makes the bike so stable but it means the bottom bracket to ground clearance is low so pedal strike can be an issue.  There is no 65mm crankset option on the 2x GRX 48/31 which I would have preferred.  But this is a small difference and just means learning (quickly) not to drop a pedal especially when starting to roll off, which is where this is most likely to happen.

 

I found myself riding some farm track through tight bush and the Cowchipper bars were brilliant in that situation, just wide enough to have good control and narrower than MTB bars so much easier to maneuver through the tight stuff.

 

This is beyond a doubt every bit the bike for living on the bike!

[Jof]

This is Kevin - The Curve GRX 

 

Titanium perfection - I have some lovely bikes I rotate.  Haven't looked at them since I got this.  I have lost interest in anything bike related.  It's a love story for the ages

 

Curve Carbon wide rim wheels with DT swiss 350s

520 wide flared bars

lauf gravel fork

XX1 crank painted to match custom lauf 

garburuk 42T chainring with matching deraileur cage and jockeys

10/50 AXS

sram red shifters and brakes

shimano rotors

spez gravel seatpost

farr saddle

panaracer 4

 

Stunning !!!!!

[Jonesy]

My "problem" started when I fell in love with that frame...

 

Went for the grey rather than the orange and spent months drooling over it as I figured out how to kit it out. That was (almost) the best part.

 

Along the way there were many moments of doubt. I definitely bought with my heart, then had to throw my head at it. But in the end it worked out far far far better than I dreamed.

My thinking (when I got there) was that I wanted something bomb proof that I could fix myself if needed. I also thought if I got stuck building I could drop the whole thing at the bike shop and say "do". But that never happened. Even cutting down the fork steerer I managed myself.

 

The bike is absolutely awesome and rides like a dream. It took a bit of getting used to because of the change in wheel size and the difference in geometry of the frame. The centre of gravity is lower. But that means the bike is infinitely stable even in the most vicious cross-winds. I've actually scored some serious speeds with a tailwind in conditions where no-one else would dare to ride.

 

Circumstances, besides lockdown, have been horrendous since I finished the build so I haven't been able to do any proper long rides yet but I've popped on a carrier and panniers and carted 20 liters (so kg) of water on the back. That needs balancing out front. But that was just a try-out. After 500km the brakes need adjustment and that is about all.

The steel fork is also an eye-opener. OK corrugations are horrible but they weren't much worse with my MTB fork either!

BV RDg.jpeg

 

This is what I went for:

Frame and fork: FARR small (steel)

Bars: Salsa Cowchipper drop bar (42cm) 24 degree sweep (awesome!)

Bar tape: Salsa gel cork with a double wrap layer on the top (flat) bar (you can ride without gloves, extremely comfortable and good grip)

Stem: Salsa guide (80mm, 15mm rise)

Seatpost: Salsa guide (18mm offset)

 

Levers: Ultegra R8000 (11 speed)

Front derailleur: Shimano GRX FD-RX810

Rear derailleur: GRX-RD-RX810 2x11sp

Cassette: 11-34T

Crankset: GRX FC-RX810-2 70mm 48/31T

 

This gearing does everything I want from it which includes some pretty steep climbing. With the bike's geometry, it's surprisingly good at getting uphill. I thought I'd struggle more with the weight but not so. With the 48/31 split on the front, it's wicked fast on the flats and has a very friendly granny.

 

It's possible (apparently) to run a wider range cassette but I decided to go with Shimano's limits and see how that works. My rides include some steep pitches and this set-up covers that easily. No need really to strain the derailleur limits. Maybe packed for touring that could be an issue.

Installation and set-up was really easy.

 

One thing: the front-derailleur is bottom-pull (road frame style) so a little pulley gadget was needed to convert to the frame's top-pull cable routing. It's called a problem solver and that's what it does, beautifully.

 

Wheelset: Hope Hoops Pro4 hubs, 27.5", 23mm Tech Enduro rims, through axle.

 

Tyres: Conti: Race King (rear) X-King (front) 2", tubeless, ghetto conversion.

Not light, but bomb proof.

 

The 2" tyres on 27.5" wheels on this frame make for a rather close fit but there is still some room for clearance although I don't think there is much tolerance for mud... but then I don't plan to ride in such conditions. Thinking was to go for a high-volume wheel set for comfort and control and to get a second 700cm set for road at a later stage.

 

However I don't see a later stage on the horizon any more. These just work. I also have a set of Schwalbe Mondials intended for touring, at some point. The Contis were an experiment to see if they fit and how they would run. Brilliant. Perfect for the gravel roads here and not too shabby on the tar either. And they sing, two slightly different tunes but in harmony! (What else!)

Oh yes...

 

Brakes: TRP Spyre (mix of flat and post-mount) paired with Ice-tec rotors (160mm)

These are solid, cable-actuated, easy to set up and adjust. One problem: they don't come with the right frame bolts... which I managed to source elsewhere but were a bit of a pain. It's probably because of frame-specific requirements, but still. I need to try them under load as when I did my "water run" they were a bit slack as the calipers need adjustment after a 500km run in.

 

The frame has a relatively deep (lengthy) headset which means the space on the frame is ample for water bottles and bags. It's also what makes the bike so stable but it means the bottom bracket to ground clearance is low so pedal strike can be an issue. There is no 65mm crankset option on the 2x GRX 48/31 which I would have preferred. But this is a small difference and just means learning (quickly) not to drop a pedal especially when starting to roll off, which is where this is most likely to happen.

 

I found myself riding some farm track through tight bush and the Cowchipper bars were brilliant in that situation, just wide enough to have good control and narrower than MTB bars so much easier to maneuver through the tight stuff.

 

This is beyond a doubt every bit the bike for living on the bike!

IMG_8801.JPG

Nice write-up. Good to hear your experience. My build has been fraught with difficulties. The first bike shop gave up, the second is winning despite some hiccups.

Pleeez.... can you let us know the weight of your bike? (More out of curiosity than anything else.)

I've sent you a PM.

Cheers

Edited July 7, 2020 by Jonesy

[gogo@]

Nice write-up. Good to hear your experience. My build has been fraught with difficulties. The first bike shop gave up, the second is winning despite some hiccups.

Pleeez.... can you let us know the weight of your bike? (More out of curiosity than anything else.)

I've sent you a PM.

Cheers

On the weight of the bike I'd say around 11kg maybe a bit less, worked out on manufacturers' stated weight of components and including something for Stans sealant.  It's probably 10.75kg but I haven't weighed anything... It's heavy but doesn't ride heavy if that makes sense.  My wheel set and tyres alone weigh around 3.5kg according to calculations so you will definitely reduce weight there if you are going for a lighter 700cm set up.

Hope you come right quickly it's so worth it!

[Paul Ruinaard]

Just taken delivery of this - very nice - running Maxxis gravel tyres on it - 40 mm. I found it to be quite a lot higher rolling resistance but lots of fun. the original idea was to build something for the indoor trainer out of bits i had as the carbon frames and changing aren't a great idea,

 

Its my second gravel type bike. First was. Chinese CX type bike which was okay but this build is IMO better.

 

I had an Ultegra disc groupset and a set of DT swiss rims spare plus the other bits in the garage. Needed the frame (Momsen Ally ) and then of course the build got away from me and i started to add things in and dream about builds.

 

Bike rides nicely and will be on the trainer as well as for occasional rides - would like to do some gravel biking in the Karoo and Eroica ride.

Edited July 8, 2020 by Paul Ruinaard

[andreas17777]

Nice write-up. Good to hear your experience. My build has been fraught with difficulties. The first bike shop gave up, the second is winning despite some hiccups.

Pleeez.... can you let us know the weight of your bike? (More out of curiosity than anything else.)

I've sent you a PM.

Cheers

What does the fork weigh, I'm considering switching to carbon if it will save some weight.

[gogo@]

What does the fork weigh, I'm considering switching to carbon if it will save some weight.

Hopefully Jonesy can answer.  I never weighed mine.  Frame and fork according to FARR weigh 2.775kg.  At a guess I'd say the fork is around 0.9 to 1.1kg but that's a it, a guess.

I do like the ride-feel of the steel fork though...