Stuff you learn(t) the hard way by being your own mechanic

[Dup08]

I messed up and cut a chain (XX1 Eagle) too short due to being a stupid and not leaving it at the lenght I had initially.

Resorted to adding another quick link with a few chain links to get it to the correct lenght again. 
Will this work with two links in close proximity on the chain or should I rather buy a new chain and learn a very expensive lesson?

[MTBRIDER1234]

27 minutes ago, Dup08 said:

I messed up and cut a chain (XX1 Eagle) too short due to being a stupid and not leaving it at the lenght I had initially.

Resorted to adding another quick link with a few chain links to get it to the correct lenght again. 
Will this work with two links in close proximity on the chain or should I rather buy a new chain and learn a very expensive lesson?

I have done it before with no issues. I personally believe that 2 master links in a chain shouldn't cause any problems. I know people who run 3 or more, but at that point, just buy a new chain. 

Just ensure that the masterlinks are new (or very close to new) to ensure they have a tight fit and you don't run the risk of them coming loose. It sounds like it wouldn't happen, but I have seen a few people's chains come loose during heavy chainslap, due to a worn masterlink coming apart. 

If you are unsure whether you can reuse it, check how hard it is to set. If it can be done with very little force, I would replace it. And if it can be done with your hands and no tools... I think it goes without saying that you need a new one.

Also don't cheap out and add new links to the chain by pushing the pins out enough to the point when you can put new links in, then push it back. Because it will break. Guaranteed.

[Dup08]

@MTBRIDER1234 thanks for the input.

Master links are brand new, so no issues there.

My OCD is probably then the only thing which is driving me into a new chain direction as I am struggling to accept the fact that I now have to run with two master links due to my own stupidity. 

[MTBRIDER1234]

14 minutes ago, Dup08 said:

@MTBRIDER1234 thanks for the input.

Master links are brand new, so no issues there.

My OCD is probably then the only thing which is driving me into a new chain direction as I am struggling to accept the fact that I now have to run with two master links due to my own stupidity. 

As long as the masterlinks colour match the chain, they won't really be too noticeable. 

Also remember that the arrow on the masterlink points in the direction the chain moves (so when it's under the chainstay, it points backwards) 

[MrJacques]

6 hours ago, Dup08 said:

I messed up and cut a chain (XX1 Eagle) too short due to being a stupid and not leaving it at the lenght I had initially.

Resorted to adding another quick link with a few chain links to get it to the correct lenght again. 
Will this work with two links in close proximity on the chain or should I rather buy a new chain and learn a very expensive lesson?

 

[The Ouzo]

Not bike related, but the lesson is.

Always take note or better, pics, when disassembling something you have not taken apart before.

 

After my ride yesterday I started cutting the grass. Back lawn done now heading to the front. Pull the cord on the weedeater and the thing snaps on the motor side.

No problem, this is a quick fix, I'll just open up, feed the remaining cord in and I should be good to go.

15 minutes later I cant get the mechanism to engage the recoil spring. I start fiddling, the recoil spring pops out.

OK, just coil it back and we should be good to go.

Four and half hours of fighting with the spring later, I'm now cold, tired and irritated, out of frustration I'm watching a youtube video on how to do it. and notice that the first mistake I made was trying to install the wheel that the cord winds onto upside down. That is why it was not engaging the recoil spring.

Had I taken note of how it came apart I would have been done in 20 minutes, instead, I wasted 4.5 hours and my weed eater is still lying in pieces on my work bench.

[devvydoesdonuts]

2 hours ago, The Ouzo said:

Not bike related, but the lesson is.

Always take note or better, pics, when disassembling something you have not taken apart before.

 

After my ride yesterday I started cutting the grass. Back lawn done now heading to the front. Pull the cord on the weedeater and the thing snaps on the motor side.

No problem, this is a quick fix, I'll just open up, feed the remaining cord in and I should be good to go.

15 minutes later I cant get the mechanism to engage the recoil spring. I start fiddling, the recoil spring pops out.

OK, just coil it back and we should be good to go.

Four and half hours of fighting with the spring later, I'm now cold, tired and irritated, out of frustration I'm watching a youtube video on how to do it. and notice that the first mistake I made was trying to install the wheel that the cord winds onto upside down. That is why it was not engaging the recoil spring.

Had I taken note of how it came apart I would have been done in 20 minutes, instead, I wasted 4.5 hours and my weed eater is still lying in pieces on my work bench.

I can relate to this, the amount of colourful language I have used trying to sort a weed eater out is second to non, my wife always says that I need to just be calm, I just say if it is not working the way it is supposed to. Props to you for spending 4.5 hours trying to figure it out, I would have had about 10 meltdowns in the first 20 mins, smashed it and have to go buy a new one the next day😂

[The Ouzo]

Just now, devvydoesdonuts said:

I can relate to this, the amount of colourful language I have used trying to sort a weed eater out is second to non, my wife always says that I need to just be calm, I just say if it is not working the way it is supposed to. Props to you for spending 4.5 hours trying to figure it out, I would have had about 10 meltdowns in the first 20 mins, smashed it and have to go buy a new one the next day😂

oh you have no idea.

I would have in the past. Up until about 2 years back I had 3 weed eaters that I did not use hanging in the shed. Because even after stripping and cleaning out the carbs they would not start, I got frustrated and went a bought a new one everytime.

This one is a Stihl. Its never given me any crap in the 10 years I've had it. That and the fact that I cant afford to just go out and buy a new one anymore is what made me persevere.

With fresh energy and now knowing the correct way to assemble it, I will attempt to put it back together again before the weekend.

[dave303e]

I have a stihl that has been standing since Jan, 1 load of dirty fuel because someone in the household thinks that leaving fuel tanks open in dusty environments is perfectly fine... I have cleaned that carb maybe 10 times this year. I am about to order a new fuel filter/pickup/tank and then a piston and head for it as well. Man I hate those stupid little motors.

[devvydoesdonuts]

1 minute ago, The Ouzo said:

oh you have no idea.

I would have in the past. Up until about 2 years back I had 3 weed eaters that I did not use hanging in the shed. Because even after stripping and cleaning out the carbs they would not start, I got frustrated and went a bought a new one everytime.

This one is a Stihl. Its never given me any crap in the 10 years I've had it. That and the fact that I cant afford to just go out and buy a new one anymore is what made me persevere.

With fresh energy and now knowing the correct way to assemble it, I will attempt to put it back together again before the weekend.

Sometimes it is better to just put it aside and wait a day or two before trying to tackle it. Wishing you luck that you get it sorted. 

[The Ouzo]

3 minutes ago, dave303e said:

I have a stihl that has been standing since Jan, 1 load of dirty fuel because someone in the household thinks that leaving fuel tanks open in dusty environments is perfectly fine... I have cleaned that carb maybe 10 times this year. I am about to order a new fuel filter/pickup/tank and then a piston and head for it as well. Man I hate those stupid little motors.

The Stihl motor has been 1000 times better than the Ryobi and Homelite ones ive had in the past. But I make sure to run the thing dry after every use, otherwise you battle to start it the next week.

 

[dave303e]

39 minutes ago, The Ouzo said:

The Stihl motor has been 1000 times better than the Ryobi and Homelite ones ive had in the past. But I make sure to run the thing dry after every use, otherwise you battle to start it the next week.

 

I think ours has been cutting grass since before I was born. It is ancient. Which might also be the problem. I am sure once it has some compression again it will be a bit more reliable...

[Chadvdw67]

21 hours ago, The Ouzo said:

The Stihl motor has been 1000 times better than the Ryobi and Homelite ones ive had in the past. But I make sure to run the thing dry after every use, otherwise you battle to start it the next week.

 

Just a word of caution, the only lubrication the crank and rod bearings get is from the fuel that passes through the crankcase when the motor runs, running it till it runs dry means that there is no lubrication as the motor dies, it might sound trivial, but I have seen guys seize motors doing that

[The Ouzo]

1 minute ago, Chadvdw67 said:

Just a word of caution, the only lubrication the crank and rod bearings get is from the fuel that passes through the crankcase when the motor runs, running it till it runs dry means that there is no lubrication as the motor dies, it might sound trivial, but I have seen guys seize motors doing that

thanks. i think it will be ok (it has been for 10 years). its under low stress at idle (which is how I leave it after emptying the fuel), plus its still lubricated until that last drop of fuel gets through the carb, so it should be ok.

We used to do this with our 2 stroke outboard engines on the boat when storing the boat for winter. The problem with leaving the old fuel in there is that it goes off and then you struggle to start it after a few months. Have you ever tried to pull start a 500cc 2 stroke outboard ? Its hard work, and when you have 2 of them its a  serious workout.

 

I get what you're saying about the lubrication though.

[MrJacques]

 

[MTBRIDER1234]

7 hours ago, Chadvdw67 said:

Just a word of caution, the only lubrication the crank and rod bearings get is from the fuel that passes through the crankcase when the motor runs, running it till it runs dry means that there is no lubrication as the motor dies, it might sound trivial, but I have seen guys seize motors doing that

Yeah from my experience, running 2 strokes dry is a no go. I also recommend putting in a few drops of 3 in 1 oil after you run it, and cycle the engine a few times slowly with the plug out. Some people may say it's unnecessary, but it certainly doesn't do any harm, and helps the engine last a bit longer.

Also for people struggling to start the, put the carb back to factory settings, check that the air filter isn't clogged, and check spark (replace the plug if you aren't sure). A problem that isn't well known enough is air leaks. A leaky carb gasket will cause nothing but issues with tuning, and cause it to run erratically.

The little 2 strokes engine are very simple in how they work, and as long as they have fuel, spark and air (like any engine) they are happy. They are also generally very forgiving of being a bit lean or rich.