ChrisF Posted February 4 Posted February 4 44 minutes ago, Jbr said: Just picked up my bike from a nation wide famous bike shop, and as I sort of expected when I dropped it of just before xmas, half of the stuff isn’t done right, but as I don’t believe they actually have a clue, I’m not going to bother taking it back. So here’s the main problem I can sort out on my own, I already had it in the past when I swapped the current 11spd freehub for a microspline, and now that it’s back to the original freehub I get the same problem. It’s impossible to get the freehub/cassette turning once the wheel is on the bike and the axle tightened. My LBS fixed it in 5 mins last time but I didn’t dare ask how. Apparently it was some bearing preload issue ? Should I pursue it on my own or just be patient and have an actual mechanic look at it ? Knipe_Racing or Marks Workshop Which ever is closer to you. Sorry, no experience with the guys in the South. Still want to get a day-pass to go visit the Droo's .... Jbr 1
Jbr Posted February 4 Posted February 4 2 minutes ago, ChrisF said: Knipe_Racing or Marks Workshop Which ever is closer to you. Sorry, no experience with the guys in the South. Still want to get a day-pass to go visit the Droo's .... Those are too far, I have a decent shop nearby, I’ll probably take it to them if I can’t find the solution myself, I took that freehub appart multiple times and tried a few things without success, and YouTube I only find tutorials with quickrelease I don’t think it applies to my problem… so yeah…unlikely that I find the solution 😒 ChrisF 1
ChrisF Posted February 4 Posted February 4 4 minutes ago, Jbr said: Those are too far, I have a decent shop nearby, I’ll probably take it to them if I can’t find the solution myself, I took that freehub appart multiple times and tried a few things without success, and YouTube I only find tutorials with quickrelease I don’t think it applies to my problem… so yeah…unlikely that I find the solution 😒 The Droo's @droo ? Some say you get a beer if they cant fix it .... Speak to your LBS, ask him to explain the possible pre-load issue. (kindly share when you understand it) Bicycle Yard WESTERN CAPE 1
dasilvarsa Posted February 4 Posted February 4 10 hours ago, Newbie321 said: I tried tubes for all of 2 weeks on the Tygerberg trails in summer before giving up. Even with sealant I've had thorns that the sealant struggled with. No thanks... Tube Protectors Correctly Fitted Available at sportsmans warehouse and Major Bike shops.
Alouette3 Posted February 4 Posted February 4 @Jbr what hub have you got? I have experienced this with DT Swiss 3pawl hubs for instance, there is a spacer tube over the axle, over time they compress just enough to cause binding. First time I replaced it, problem solved, 2 years later, same issue, chatted to my local mech and he handed me a very thin spacer washer to take up the space left by the material compressing... apparently next time it happens he has another slightly thicker washer
BaGearA Posted February 5 Posted February 5 13 hours ago, Jbr said: Just picked up my bike from a nation wide famous bike shop, and as I sort of expected when I dropped it of just before xmas, half of the stuff isn’t done right, but as I don’t believe they actually have a clue, I’m not going to bother taking it back. So here’s the main problem I can sort out on my own, I already had it in the past when I swapped the current 11spd freehub for a microspline, and now that it’s back to the original freehub I get the same problem. It’s impossible to get the freehub/cassette turning once the wheel is on the bike and the axle tightened. My LBS fixed it in 5 mins last time but I didn’t dare ask how. Apparently it was some bearing preload issue ? Should I pursue it on my own or just be patient and have an actual mechanic look at it ? Most of the time its the washer between the freehub and hub being missing or flipped. But with hubs that don't use that system it could be bearings not seated all the way, In my case it once was one of the end caps being slightly damaged.
Jbr Posted February 5 Posted February 5 21 minutes ago, BaGearA said: Most of the time its the washer between the freehub and hub being missing or flipped. But with hubs that don't use that system it could be bearings not seated all the way, In my case it once was one of the end caps being slightly damaged. I think it’s more a case of wrong end cap than spacing behind the freehub because once the wheel is on the wheel freewheels no problem I can also backpedal, but the cassette/body just won’t move forward
droo Posted February 5 Posted February 5 3 hours ago, Jbr said: I think it’s more a case of wrong end cap than spacing behind the freehub because once the wheel is on the wheel freewheels no problem I can also backpedal, but the cassette/body just won’t move forward I'll ask too then - what hub? Different hubs will have different solutions for the same issue. DT 350 - usually a freehub seal that's not been seated properly after a bearing replacement. Seat seal properly, problem solved. DT 370 - knackered freehub spacer. Replace spacer, problem solved. Most other hubs - missing freehub spacer. Fit spacer. Freehub drag is never a preload issue, there is no hub that has preload adjust on the freehub aside from Shimano, which requires completely stripping the freehub and adding or removing shims. ChrisF 1
Jbr Posted February 5 Posted February 5 2 minutes ago, droo said: I'll ask too then - what hub? Different hubs will have different solutions for the same issue. DT 350 - usually a freehub seal that's not been seated properly after a bearing replacement. Seat seal properly, problem solved. DT 370 - knackered freehub spacer. Replace spacer, problem solved. Most other hubs - missing freehub spacer. Fit spacer. Freehub drag is never a preload issue, there is no hub that has preload adjust on the freehub aside from Shimano, which requires completely stripping the freehub and adding or removing shims. it's a mavic hub
droo Posted February 5 Posted February 5 Just now, Jbr said: it's a mavic hub There's your first problem... I also won't be able to internet you any advice unfortunately, they change their hub designs like most of us change socks. I'd be happy to have a look if you can get it to me. dasilvarsa and Jbr 1 1
Ant in the NL Posted February 6 Posted February 6 Anyone know how to repair or what to replace a LTwoo 1x12 rear derailleur with? Annoying chain slap in the high gear and it seems as if the cassette doesn't engage immediately when you pedal from start or from coasting. Avalanche Reflex Pro 29er standard equipment as bought from Durbanville Cycles around 18 months ago - 3000kms on it. Any guidance or advice will be appreciated 👍🏼
droo Posted February 6 Posted February 6 1 hour ago, AntVanR said: Anyone know how to repair or what to replace a LTwoo 1x12 rear derailleur with? Annoying chain slap in the high gear and it seems as if the cassette doesn't engage immediately when you pedal from start or from coasting. Avalanche Reflex Pro 29er standard equipment as bought from Durbanville Cycles around 18 months ago - 3000kms on it. Any guidance or advice will be appreciated 👍🏼 99% sure that's not the derailleur. Far more likely to be the freehub. Dusty, Ant in the NL, gerriemtb and 1 other 4
Ant in the NL Posted February 6 Posted February 6 26 minutes ago, droo said: 99% sure that's not the derailleur. Far more likely to be the freehub. That's great insight, thank you 👍🏼👍🏼 So, how would I know what part to buy to replace the existing unit? Avalanche bike company say "any Shimano", but is it really that easy?
droo Posted February 6 Posted February 6 10 minutes ago, AntVanR said: That's great insight, thank you 👍🏼👍🏼 So, how would I know what part to buy to replace the existing unit? Avalanche bike company say "any Shimano", but is it really that easy? Take the freehub off and take it to a shop, there are a few different variants.
RobertWhitehead Posted February 6 Posted February 6 (edited) On 2/5/2024 at 8:16 AM, Jbr said: I think it’s more a case of wrong end cap This 👆. Try to remove the fixing bolt on the one side and swop the end caps round, i.e. push the thru axle through the wheel from the other side. Chances are that this may resolve the issue Edited February 6 by RobertWhitehead Expanded
MrJacques Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Saw this gap while washing my bike. I recently swapped handlebars and check headset bearings. I'm wondering if I put everything back together correctly. I should take more photos before taking things apart. I took one of the cable routing, but not of this part. It feels fine, turns freely and there's no knocking. I've also seen photos online of other bikes with the same gap. I'm probably going to take it apart again just to be sure.
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