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Polishing Cranks XTR m980


ChUkKy

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Posted

Howzit Guys....

 

Ive got a crankset that I wanna polish, its an old XTR M980 which has seen better days. I bought it pretty rough looking with the intention of polishing it like a mirror but then I kinda just left it but now Ive got the bee in my bonnet.

 

In my quest to find the right papers I can get up to a 1200 grit paper.

 

Where the hell can I find a 2000 and 5000 grit paper???

This stuff is like hens teeth

 

Ideally id like it to attach to my rotary attachment but if I gotta use elbow grease and do it, ill make a plan.

 

Any advice on what I can do or where I can get the stuff?

Posted

Personally I think you are wasting your time beyond 2000 grit.

 

The key is not getting to the 2000 grit too quickly. You have to take your time to eliminate scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Doing this by hand is the only way really, using a machine to sand you run the risk of potentially changing the shape of corner rads on the crank.

 

I would prefer using a bench mounted polishing wheel, wool or material/cloth to buff to a shine.

 

I never go beyond 2000 grit, after that I use Brasso and then good quality metal polish/cream, something like Autosol

Posted

Personally I think you are wasting your time beyond 2000 grit.

 

The key is not getting to the 2000 grit too quickly. You have to take your time to eliminate scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Doing this by hand is the only way really, using a machine to sand you run the risk of potentially changing the shape of corner rads on the crank.

 

I would prefer using a bench mounted polishing wheel, wool or material/cloth to buff to a shine.

 

I never go beyond 2000 grit, after that I use Brasso and then good quality metal polish/cream, something like Autosol

Agreed, you will be amazed what a polishing wheel can do!!

Posted

Personally I think you are wasting your time beyond 2000 grit.

 

The key is not getting to the 2000 grit too quickly. You have to take your time to eliminate scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Doing this by hand is the only way really, using a machine to sand you run the risk of potentially changing the shape of corner rads on the crank.

 

I would prefer using a bench mounted polishing wheel, wool or material/cloth to buff to a shine.

 

I never go beyond 2000 grit, after that I use Brasso and then good quality metal polish/cream, something like Autosol

 

Cool, ill give this a go.

Thanks gents.

Posted

Personally I think you are wasting your time beyond 2000 grit.

 

The key is not getting to the 2000 grit too quickly. You have to take your time to eliminate scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Doing this by hand is the only way really, using a machine to sand you run the risk of potentially changing the shape of corner rads on the crank.

 

I would prefer using a bench mounted polishing wheel, wool or material/cloth to buff to a shine.

 

I never go beyond 2000 grit, after that I use Brasso and then good quality metal polish/cream, something like Autosol

 

 

what he said ^^^ 

going to use this on my XTR M960 Crank then fit a Wolftooth chain ring for life extension

Posted

Personally I think you are wasting your time beyond 2000 grit.

 

The key is not getting to the 2000 grit too quickly. You have to take your time to eliminate scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Doing this by hand is the only way really, using a machine to sand you run the risk of potentially changing the shape of corner rads on the crank.

 

I would prefer using a bench mounted polishing wheel, wool or material/cloth to buff to a shine.

 

I never go beyond 2000 grit, after that I use Brasso and then good quality metal polish/cream, something like Autosol

^This exactly. Use the first grit to remove any dents and imperfections, after that the subsequent grits are just there to remove the scratches caused by the previous grit.

If you progress too quickly then you wont remove the scratches from the previous one.

 

A buffing wheel on a bench grinder works wonders, I charge them with buffing compoud which you can buy in a kit from most hardware stores, its a Torkcraft branded set.

Posted

Like this?

 

I'm busy with a build and this is how, with a little help, I managed to get the cranks to look. Campy cranks with all branding removed and polished on a cotton / felt wheel on a bench mounted motor with different grits polishing compound, ending with Brasso. Sorry, you'll have to wait a bit to see the rest......like I said, it takes time! (Waiting patiently for the paint job)

 

Do what Quinton says above. Just know, it will take lots of time and elbow grease.

post-17716-0-67063200-1569513303_thumb.jpg

Posted

I’ve always wondered about polishing parts like this. It’s my understanding that aluminum parts are anodized to prevent oxidation so if you sand and polish them you remove it. Don’t the polished parts then oxidize without any protection?

Posted

I’ve always wondered about polishing parts like this. It’s my understanding that aluminum parts are anodized to prevent oxidation so if you sand and polish them you remove it. Don’t the polished parts then oxidize without any protection?

 

yes partly, also increases the resistance to surface wear or abrasion

Just keep polishing them for corrosion protection

Posted

My 105 cranks were highly corroded. I used 1000 grit to take off the worst of the surface and then used AutoSol to polish.

 

My buffing pad is used in a drill, so don't worry if you don't have a bench mounted system.

 

I think that I should actually give them a pass with some Buffing compound as mentioned above.

 

post-20015-0-11428600-1569518085_thumb.jpg

Posted

I’ve always wondered about polishing parts like this. It’s my understanding that aluminum parts are anodized to prevent oxidation so if you sand and polish them you remove it. Don’t the polished parts then oxidize without any protection?

Aluminum always forms a thin oxide layer, that layer is quite tenacious and then seals off the rest of the aluminum from oxidizing. Anodizing increases the thickness and integrity of that natural oxide layer.

 

Aluminum oxidizes extremely quickly, so when you polish it shiny it still has an oxide layer, just a very shiny and uniform one. It will however show scratches afterwards very easily, as the oxide layer is very thin and not as competent as that achieved through anodizing.

Posted

Aluminum always forms a thin oxide layer, that layer is quite tenacious and then seals off the rest of the aluminum from oxidizing. Anodizing increases the thickness and integrity of that natural oxide layer.

 

Aluminum oxidizes extremely quickly, so when you polish it shiny it still has an oxide layer, just a very shiny and uniform one. It will however show scratches afterwards very easily, as the oxide layer is very thin and not as competent as that achieved through anodizing.

clear coat over polished finish?

Posted

Howzit Guys....

 

Ive got a crankset that I wanna polish, its an old XTR M980 which has seen better days. I bought it pretty rough looking with the intention of polishing it like a mirror but then I kinda just left it but now Ive got the bee in my bonnet.

 

In my quest to find the right papers I can get up to a 1200 grit paper.

 

Where the hell can I find a 2000 and 5000 grit paper???

This stuff is like hens teeth

 

Ideally id like it to attach to my rotary attachment but if I gotta use elbow grease and do it, ill make a plan.

 

Any advice on what I can do or where I can get the stuff?

Please document the process with pictures and post them for us.

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