The toolbox thread

[BigDL]

Slowly rebuilding my tool collection. Picked these up today.

 

[Anonimus Suminona]

On flyer, your transmission?

I have 722.9 transmission

[Anonimus Suminona]

The problem is you should have cycled to the nearest bicycle shop and bought another bike

Yeah, it makes sense

[Jaws677]

.

Edited April 5, 2022 by Jaws677

[BigDL]

Where did you buy the DeWalt tools from?

From a UK chain - Screwfix

[patches]

Slowly rebuilding my tool collection. Picked these up today.

 

 

Is all the Irwin stuff in your part of the world orange and black?

 

In NZ and Aus it's typically blue and yellow. Just wondering if they "regionalise" it?!

[Psyrax]

Are'nt the 3 hole brick normally only reserved for facebrick though ?

Its the building industry - people do weird ****.

[mazambaan]

Its the building industry - people do weird ****.

 

He he rawl bolt vs plastic plug. i learnt the rawl bolt storey some time ago screwing a gate to a brick gatepost about 440mm square. Tightening the rawl bolt the top courses of the brickwork popped up, separated by the expansion of the bolt. Use with care.

[Long Wheel Base]

Is all the Irwin stuff in your part of the world orange and black?

 

In NZ and Aus it's typically blue and yellow. Just wondering if they "regionalise" it?!

Was also going to ask. Here is RSA it is also blue and yellow. I have some irwin tools and a pair of their gloves. The stuff is quality. The gloves are amazing. I think a lot of people under estimate a pair of decent gloves. I have a few pairs of leather gloves that I usually use but when I bring out my mooi mooi irwins I feel like a F1 mechanic. They were fairly pricey so I only wear them on special occasions. They can be washed which is nice. The leather ones are also nice for dirtier jobs and they last a few years before you need to chuck them. Luckily they a lot cheaper than the irwin gloves.

[Hairy]

If you want to go "Pro"

 

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/16-new-pro-mechanics-tools--pond-beaver-2021.html

[madmarc]

The problem we as trade people have is these bricks with the holes in them. Some bricks have only 3 big holes in and other a lot of small holes. That is a cavity in the place where you want to install an anchor (rawl bolt or plug or whatever). Solid bricks or concrete are the best, obviously.

 

There are products that, when you find its a hollow brick, that you install a ceetain type of fischer plug and squirt then a thick type of epoxy into the plug so it gives a larger grip area in the cavity. But those things are expensive and really meant for guys who work with this scenario every day.

 

So whats the best to use, a fischer plug or rawl bolt? Both have their advantage and disadvantage, but the best is to hope you don't drill into a hollow part of the brick when you don't want to.

 

I had this problem - my house is FB with 3 hole bricks, i hung a new gate which needed 12mm rawlbolts which i initially used - eventually the bricks cracked and the electric gate pulled the brackets off the wall.

 

I had to surgically break out the broken bricks and replace with new ones - I used the Fisher plastic cages and their glue to insert threaded rod, remounted the brackets.

 

Its incredible how strong that glue is and the only way to mount things on cavity bricks - its expensive but really works well

[BigDL]

Is all the Irwin stuff in your part of the world orange and black?

 

In NZ and Aus it's typically blue and yellow. Just wondering if they "regionalise" it?!

Not sure - was in to do click and collect on the other stuff and they had the saws on special at the counter so I just picked one up.

 

Edit: just checked online and it seems to be blue and yellow normally

Edited April 22, 2021 by BigDL

[ABrooks]

I have a centrifugal switch from a table saw that has cracked and is now spinning on the shaft. They seem to be hard to come by, is this something that I can fix with Pratley's steel, will it stick to the switch? It seems to be from cast brass or something. 

 

[Skylark]

I have a centrifugal switch from a table saw that has cracked and is now spinning on the shaft. They seem to be hard to come by, is this something that I can fix with Pratley's steel, will it stick to the switch? It seems to be from cast brass or something.

 

WhatsApp Image 2021-04-26 at 14.48.24.jpeg

Probably some kind of alloy not too many degrees from pewter, just about impossible to repair and make the screw full load bearing again.

 

I'd glue the whole lot into place with Pratley steel, on the shaft and them put some into the screw how and tighten the screw with as much load as it can take currently.

 

Or another option is perhaps using a pipe clamp to replace the clamping force of the screw, make 2 cut outs in the collar to allow it to be squeezed and compares onto the shaft.

Edited April 26, 2021 by Skylark

[ABrooks]

Probably some kind of alloy not too many degrees from pewter, just about impossible to repair and make the screw full load bearing again.

 

I'd glue the whole lot into place with Pratley steel, on the shaft and them put some into the screw how and tighten the screw with as much load as it can take currently.

 

Or another option is perhaps using a pipe clamp to replace the clamping force of the screw, make 2 cut outs in the collar to allow it to be squeezed and compares onto the shaft.

 

Thanks I also considered the whole pipe clamp idea to prevent it from splitting further. 

[BigDL]

So, having bought a Makita battery brush cutter a few weeks back and loving it, I bought a Makita Battery chainsaw. I was inspired by seeing some pine trees on the side of the road that had been felled and left, so I bought the saw and went this morning to recover some wood. Brilliant saw - batteries run for about 45 mins. Used one set of batteries per trailer load.