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Posted
2 hours ago, MORNE said:

Not at all. And well done for loosing a bunch of weight already.
 

look, thats also why those Rapidé wheels never buckled. A good quality, hand built wheel will always be better. Most alloy rims that come on cookie cutter bikes are only supposed to stay round up to the sidewalk on the way to the car in my opinion lol. It’s not just the spez ones. In many cases I dont even think you can buy aftermarket rims that bad to get built up (maybe Temu)

Thanks, I was also only taking the piss about my weight. I am in a bit of a training plateau at the moment due to various reasons - crashing, getting sick, all the rain, work. . .  I'm amping to get after it again.

Those Rapidé wheels really are good. I'm tempted to get a set again . . .

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Zebra said:

I dont ride much technical, but QUITE happy with my ROVAL wheelset; they seem decent-enough, and LIKELY suit a number of riders on Specialized bikes - but not everyone…

Years ago, i bought a 2nd hand Epic comp carbon with Roval alu wheelset, and zero problems with them, whist not ‘pushing’ them, admittedly.

i know Bike Radar gives certain Roval wheels 4/5 stars, so i dont think they are totally crap (your words: rubbish)

and yes, your 07th Feb post - bent rim 2x (in one specific area) in 8-odd months, and then damaging it for the 3rd time in the same area (Conties), methinks you are possibly harsh on Roval!

Happy - requesting even - to be educated on where the rims lie on a scale of strength, etc, on the value-end of bikes…

Cheers

Chris

This is the type of environment I ride most often on my Stumpjumper EVO (pic below) , which is the type of environment it is advertised as being designed for. If I am expected to ride my bike as if I'm doing a leisure ride on gravel because the components won't live up to my "abuse" then can I please return my bike for a refund, because that's not what I signed up for.

Also, as I mentioned to Morne, I was running 40 psi pressure at the rear, so there is NO reason why that rim folded the way it did apart from just being rubbish.

I own two Spez bikes. The other one's Rovals also died a horrific death. Yes, I am a big boy, and I've lost 14 kg overall since January, and I rode my other Spez bike on a set of Rapide TR-36 wheels over these same rocks below many times before without ONE incident. Those rims have never been trued in all the time I've had them nor has a spoke needed tensioning. They still roll perfectly balanced. 


(not me, not my pic, just grabbed it off the interwebs for reference. I rode down these rocks on Saturday before the wheel died on a much smaller rock on a different trail.)

image.png.90b2a83b087fbd2b45a21c364921d460.png

Edited by Robbie Stewart
Posted
On 7/8/2024 at 9:09 AM, Robbie Stewart said:

This is the type of environment I ride most often on my Stumpjumper EVO (pic below) , which is the type of environment it is advertised as being designed for. If I am expected to ride my bike as if I'm doing a leisure ride on gravel because the components won't live up to my "abuse" then can I please return my bike for a refund, because that's not what I signed up for.

Also, as I mentioned to Morne, I was running 40 psi pressure at the rear, so there is NO reason why that rim folded the way it did apart from just being rubbish.

I own two Spez bikes. The other one's Rovals also died a horrific death. Yes, I am a big boy, and I've lost 14 kg overall since January, and I rode my other Spez bike on a set of Rapide TR-36 wheels over these same rocks below many times before without ONE incident. Those rims have never been trued in all the time I've had them nor has a spoke needed tensioning. They still roll perfectly balanced. 


(not me, not my pic, just grabbed it off the interwebs for reference. I rode down these rocks on Saturday before the wheel died on a much smaller rock on a different trail.)

image.png.90b2a83b087fbd2b45a21c364921d460.png

 

Are you confusing "marketing" with reality .... 

 

 

 

 

 

jokes aside ..... it should be fit for purpose.  And IF tyre pressures are so critically important for this type of application they really should provide guidance on what to use to avoid damage

Posted
2 hours ago, ChrisF said:

jokes aside ..... it should be fit for purpose.  And IF tyre pressures are so critically important for this type of application they really should provide guidance on what to use to avoid damage

I'm just curious how suddenly everyone is insisting that tyre inserts are an absolute must for anything related to enduro / all-mountain-style riding. Yet, they conveniently forget that we've all been riding the same conditions for decades without tyre inserts, nor needing them. But suddenly it seems like the rims are made of butter. Or that the tyres are somehow softer. I dunno. Maybe I must eat even less than I already do and only ride soft trails without obstacles. Oh, wait. Nevermind. Those trails are called roads.

Posted

The OP said "... the rims because i heavily cased a jump."

Then our friend Wyatt Earp says "My advice would be that you tell them you rode in quite an aggressively rocky area, you heard spokes making a noise and inspected the wheels after the ride. Noticed the cracks and you want to put in a claim for a new wheelset."

Now perhaps I am wrong but this seems to fit my dictionary's definition of fraud quite well. Or did I somehow misunderstand the true meaning of the message, when Mr Earp suggested telling the R1 insurance company that a very different set of circumstances were at play?

Gee. And we wonder why insurance rates are so high. And I wonder why this statement didn't seem a little strange to anyone else here. 😑

Posted
On 7/10/2024 at 2:50 PM, Robbie Stewart said:

I'm just curious how suddenly everyone is insisting that tyre inserts are an absolute must for anything related to enduro / all-mountain-style riding. Yet, they conveniently forget that we've all been riding the same conditions for decades without tyre inserts, nor needing them. But suddenly it seems like the rims are made of butter. Or that the tyres are somehow softer. I dunno. Maybe I must eat even less than I already do and only ride soft trails without obstacles. Oh, wait. Nevermind. Those trails are called roads.

Naah, the Roval rims are okay. Not too heavy, not too light, not too weak, not too strong. And cheap for spez, so they get specced on their bikes. I managed to ding one Roval rim, on a rocky trail, while experimenting with low pressure. Not the roval’s fault. And that wheel lasted quite a while longer after that. including an Ezelduro. Arguably the rockiest riding around in the western cape.
Eventually replaced it with a Rapide. 

But let’s be honest Robbie, you knew you were going to replace that back rim eventually when you got the bike (I’m comfortable to guess that it’s the back rim.) 

my suggestion: 

Inserts are a crutch for the unskilled, but an insurance package for the highly skilled racers. Maxxis EXO tyres are good enough, if pumped hard enough.Minder Neanderthal, Meer feëtjie. 
learn to be softer on your wheels, Smooth is fast. Smoother is the beter path to progression than Faster. 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, PhilipV said:

Naah, the Roval rims are okay. Not too heavy, not too light, not too weak, not too strong. And cheap for spez, so they get specced on their bikes. I managed to ding one Roval rim, on a rocky trail, while experimenting with low pressure. Not the roval’s fault. And that wheel lasted quite a while longer after that. including an Ezelduro. Arguably the rockiest riding around in the western cape.
Eventually replaced it with a Rapide. 

But let’s be honest Robbie, you knew you were going to replace that back rim eventually when you got the bike (I’m comfortable to guess that it’s the back rim.) 

my suggestion: 

Inserts are a crutch for the unskilled, but an insurance package for the highly skilled racers. Maxxis EXO tyres are good enough, if pumped hard enough.Minder Neanderthal, Meer feëtjie. 
learn to be softer on your wheels, Smooth is fast. Smoother is the beter path to progression than Faster. 

 

You've got me pegged. 100%. Well done. 

I'm conceding your point. And yes, it is the rear, and yes I knew it wasn't going to last. I was running the stock Eliminator GRID T7 out back which didn't last long, and replaced it with a new one a week ago. It had two rides on before it too died. I'm going back to Assegai / Minion DHR 2 with DD Maxx grip. And yes, I am built like a Neanderthal and ride like one too.  I'm just annoyed that my Rapide TR-36 runs held up so well and are still running as true as they day I got them. Why can't EOM stock be as good. But yeah, cost versus function I suppose. Probably the thinking is that aftermarket replacement is inevitable, so as long as they keep me running for a while it's all good? Oh well, like I said earlier, then the bike would be 20k more expensive and maybe not such a good deal then at that price point. It's all about economy of scale I reckon.

Posted
12 hours ago, Robbie Stewart said:

You've got me pegged. 100%. Well done. 

I'm conceding your point. And yes, it is the rear, and yes I knew it wasn't going to last. I was running the stock Eliminator GRID T7 out back which didn't last long, and replaced it with a new one a week ago. It had two rides on before it too died. I'm going back to Assegai / Minion DHR 2 with DD Maxx grip. And yes, I am built like a Neanderthal and ride like one too.  I'm just annoyed that my Rapide TR-36 runs held up so well and are still running as true as they day I got them. Why can't EOM stock be as good. But yeah, cost versus function I suppose. Probably the thinking is that aftermarket replacement is inevitable, so as long as they keep me running for a while it's all good? Oh well, like I said earlier, then the bike would be 20k more expensive and maybe not such a good deal then at that price point. It's all about economy of scale I reckon.

I could reuse the spokes when I rebuilt the Rapide onto the  Roval wheels on mine. So I taped the wheels together and transferred the spokes one at a time. A drill with a long bit helped the process a long. Saved rebuild and spoke costs. Might be worth checking out for your bike. And the Rapide rims are quite a bit stronger, at a slight weight penalty. Totally worth it. 
man’s also, the N-subs trails are hard on tyres. High speeds and sharp rocks ask more of wheels than the Boland riders riding mostly flow trails. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, PhilipV said:

I could reuse the spokes when I rebuilt the Rapide onto the  Roval wheels on mine. So I taped the wheels together and transferred the spokes one at a time. A drill with a long bit helped the process a long. Saved rebuild and spoke costs. Might be worth checking out for your bike. And the Rapide rims are quite a bit stronger, at a slight weight penalty. Totally worth it. 
man’s also, the N-subs trails are hard on tyres. High speeds and sharp rocks ask more of wheels than the Boland riders riding mostly flow trails. 

I'm having the debate in my mind if I should carry the Rapide rims over to the Stumpy, but then I lose the mullet status on that bike which I am quite fond of. That 29" front wheel is all business and the 27.5" rear wheel is where the party is at and I don't really want to lose that. I would also need to re-use the original hubs because the Rapide hubs are non-boost.

But then I am also day dreaming over a set of Stans Flow EX3 rims laced to Hope Pro 5 hubs and wrapped in Maxxis Assegai / Minion DHR ii rubber.

Posted
On 7/10/2024 at 3:19 PM, tinmug said:

The OP said "... the rims because i heavily cased a jump."

Then our friend Wyatt Earp says "My advice would be that you tell them you rode in quite an aggressively rocky area, you heard spokes making a noise and inspected the wheels after the ride. Noticed the cracks and you want to put in a claim for a new wheelset."

Now perhaps I am wrong but this seems to fit my dictionary's definition of fraud quite well. Or did I somehow misunderstand the true meaning of the message, when Mr Earp suggested telling the R1 insurance company that a very different set of circumstances were at play?

Gee. And we wonder why insurance rates are so high. And I wonder why this statement didn't seem a little strange to anyone else here. 😑

um. ja you are not wrong. I could be making it up but I remember someone saying that insurance companies are starting to check social media/strava/race results etc. and putting two and two together when people tell porkies to get a claim.

 

methinks biketheft/chopshops is a much bigger issue for insurance premiums.

Posted
1 hour ago, Robbie Stewart said:

I'm having the debate in my mind if I should carry the Rapide rims over to the Stumpy, but then I lose the mullet status on that bike which I am quite fond of. That 29" front wheel is all business and the 27.5" rear wheel is where the party is at and I don't really want to lose that. I would also need to re-use the original hubs because the Rapide hubs are non-boost.

But then I am also day dreaming over a set of Stans Flow EX3 rims laced to Hope Pro 5 hubs and wrapped in Maxxis Assegai / Minion DHR ii rubber.

Do you still have the Camber? Putting the 29er wheels on the stumpy is probably as simple as swapping out end caps on those hubs. 
 

you can probably re-use the current hub and spokes. Those Roval hubs dt Swiss clones. Pretty good. 

Posted
2 hours ago, PhilipV said:

Do you still have the Camber? Putting the 29er wheels on the stumpy is probably as simple as swapping out end caps on those hubs. 
 

you can probably re-use the current hub and spokes. Those Roval hubs dt Swiss clones. Pretty good. 

I do yes. I ride along the cycle path with it to build and maintain general fitness. It's a bit overkill but it works. I still have the old original roval wheels of the camber. Mmmm. Maybe put them back on and move the rapides over to the Stumpy. I'll be saving a bunch too.

Posted (edited)
On 7/7/2024 at 7:59 PM, BaGearA said:

Cause then the bike you bought would cost 20k more and then you might not think it such a deal ? 

 

Broadly speaking trek 9.7s come with ally wheels which really aren't great, 9.8s come with carbon wheels which are very good imo 

 

Both wheelsets share the same hubs and the hubs imo are dogshite 

 

The diff between 9.7s and 9.8s broadly speaking also about 20k 

 

 

Both are carbon frames tho.

 

 

I'm sure i could draw similar parallels with scott, giant and spez. Carbon wheels cost ching and adding them onto a bike that's good value doesn't necessarily up the value for everyone even tho the price climbs drastically 

Apologies BaGear, I quoted you accidentally.

Edited by Wyatt Earp
Posted
On 7/10/2024 at 3:19 PM, tinmug said:

The OP said "... the rims because i heavily cased a jump."

Then our friend Wyatt Earp says "My advice would be that you tell them you rode in quite an aggressively rocky area, you heard spokes making a noise and inspected the wheels after the ride. Noticed the cracks and you want to put in a claim for a new wheelset."

Now perhaps I am wrong but this seems to fit my dictionary's definition of fraud quite well. Or did I somehow misunderstand the true meaning of the message, when Mr Earp suggested telling the R1 insurance company that a very different set of circumstances were at play?

Gee. And we wonder why insurance rates are so high. And I wonder why this statement didn't seem a little strange to anyone else here. 😑

 

He didn’t mention that he cased a jump and that is what caused the cracks, he is presuming it, read the OP’s 1st. comment, the one I responded to again.

Same as the chain, chains don’t snap from too much power, they snap from cross-changing under pressure and the male plate pulls from the pin, most of the time it’s just a poorly installed pin to begin with.

Mountain bike wheels are meant to hold up to the abuse.

If your bike is insured for all risks, and you find your rims cracked, they should be covered without any questions.

 

I deal with insurance companies on bicycles weekly, and often make it clear to the assessor, when I feel a claimant is pulling a clever move.

I also understand the semantics and the loopholes they will go through to repudiate a claim especially when the bike is covered for all risks, and often the owner has to motivate to get the claim approved.

If you bothered to read my response properly, you will also read where I say the hubs will likely not be covered.

Will give you 6 out of 10 for trying 👍🏻

Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, Wyatt Earp said:

He didn’t mention that he cased a jump and that is what caused the cracks, read the OP’s 1st. comment, the one I responded to again.

Mountain bike wheels are meant to hold up to the abuse.

If your bike is insured for all risks, and you find your rims cracked, they should be covered without any questions.

 

I deal with insurance companies on bicycles weekly, and often make it clear to the assessor, when I feel a claimant is pulling a clever move.

I also understand the semantics and the loopholes they will go through to repudiate a claim especially when the bike is covered for all risks, and often the owner has to motivate to get the claim approved.

If you bothered to read my response properly, you will also read where I say the hubs will likely not be covered.

Will give you 6 out of 10 for trying 👍🏻

 

Tricky topic .....

 

I also read that he damaged the rim due to casing a jump -

Case.jpg.5e1db34e57494c61ac95f5a262d4ea8d.jpg

 

The semantics of a "casing a jump" vs "abuse" vs "accident damage" would make an interesting debate .....

 

Would be interesting to hear feedback from those in the insurance industry.

 

 

 

Yes, sure you see, and hear, some interesting "stories" .... sadly many people want the insurance to buy their next bike after years of use.  Clearly not the case with the OP.

 

Edited by ChrisF

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