madmarc

Getting anything for COLNAGO is basically impossible in SA - The struggle is real i tell you. It boggles the mind that they have a SA importer who is useless and have virtually no dealer network around the country. Even getting bar tape or bottle cages is impossible. Getting Campy is becoming very much the same - Anything you want you have to know someone who knows someone who is in the inner circle of the local importer. When you see big brands trading out of back rooms and parking lots, then questions need to be asked. You better off contacting a dealer in US or UK

Depends what the warranty policy is from the OEM - In most other industries the part is replaced as well as a labor rate for a set amount of hours to replace the part. I have always been of the opinion that LBS tell their customers that labor is not included and score from the customer and the OEM - But that's just my opinion. Recently TREK replaced my 7 year old frame that cracked - I was told i would have to foot the rebuild cost, when i asked what the TREK warranty policy was in terms of labor for rebuild i was told they only replace the defective part no labor is included. I didn't argue ...was more than happy at getting the latest TREK frame free after 7 years of riding.

Yes the guy did make that point on his FB post and said it was just under 1m in length in reality - still a big puffy though

Borrowed off FB - apparently taken on Kaarkloof trails

I had this problem - my house is FB with 3 hole bricks, i hung a new gate which needed 12mm rawlbolts which i initially used - eventually the bricks cracked and the electric gate pulled the brackets off the wall. I had to surgically break out the broken bricks and replace with new ones - I used the Fisher plastic cages and their glue to insert threaded rod, remounted the brackets. Its incredible how strong that glue is and the only way to mount things on cavity bricks - its expensive but really works well

I have the same problem - Now looking for one of these locally https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-bushing-repair-kit-procedure

Ye i get your point, but if your were speeding it means you got to Pick n Pay before hundreds of others, and they had to stand at the till in longer lines. Jokes aside though - This whole WADA - SAIDS thing has got totally our of hand in their knee jerk reaction to show they trying to clean up the sport. You get caught on T or EPO you get 4 year ban - you get caught using an asprin you get 4 year ban all because some medical guy said it will improve your performance by 0.1 second over a 3 hr event. The sentence just doesn't suite the crime.

Jussie that's harsh. so they serve a 2 or 4 year ban as their punishment, but you would rather have them punished for life. What about the next time you get caught speeding, they throw your ass in jail for life, same same You get caught for breaking the rules, there is a punishment or sanction. When its done its done - we move on.

It all depends on what type of BB you have Pressfit - the right tool is the first one in 100tours post above - My method is a long round punch insert through the drive side and tap around the sides of the bearing inside the BB and the bearing will pop out, just be careful not to tilt the bearing while tapping it as it must come out straight - repeat for the opposite side - I actually made a special tool with a rawl bolt and threaded rod which also works For external threaded BB you need this tool

The tool in your pic is for a Shitmano crank - It is used to remove the plastic retainer cap, which is finger tight on the non drive side crank. After it is removed the 2 allen cap screws & plastic spacer are removed and the crank should slide off the shaft. GXP cranks use an allen key on the non drive side crank - But here it gets a bit confusing - there are 2 allen bolts when you look at the crank a smaller one inside a bigger one - you will use the smaller one to loosen the crank - when you start it will loosen and then tighten again, so you need to carry on loosening it and it will push the crank off the spline. Once the crank is off, you then pull the drive side crank and spindle out of the BB. Basically what is happening the small allen bolt loosens from the internal thread on the spindle and then as its loosening it pushes against the inside of the larger allen bolt which in turn pushes the crank off the splines on the spindle. DO NOT! remove the larger allen bolt - I repeat - DO NOT ! remove the larger allen bolt Google GXP crank installation - there are pdf's from SRAM that explain with pictures

Shitmano cassettes work fine - You may find shifting a bit noisier and less smoother - But it does work

Name them - I'll give it a bash 1 - Oval Master Titanium 2 - C40 gold limited edition 3 - C40 MK I - I think 4 - CT2 Titainio 5 - Master Olympic 6 - Dunno ! but looks like a steel frame

Has the RD been fine tuned using the RED plastic gauge that it is supplied with ? This is critical to ensure smooth shifting - SX - NX - GX all shift same if its setup correctly

I had the same issue with a my TREK 9.9 - used light film of carbon assembly grease where bearings seat in the headset and on the carbon handle bars - sorted

I disagree - Bike parts are duty free irrespective of the value according to shippers that i've used

Its not the exchange rate - I worked out 9K at Euro ROE of 18.5 in fact i can get Euro today on Shyft for 17.9 so it would cost me about 8.7K I think the difference is locally there are more companies in the margin chain - OEM -> Importer -> LBS which adds over 30% to the price. Most online shops in Europe are supplied direct from the OEM. I work for a German company with a local importer and we dictate how much the local importer can markup, its now where near the numbers that bike parts are marked up.

I will wait for my next Business trip to Germany - 9K for the same kit

I changed to oval and I must say I climb slightly easier - Not saying a now climb like a mountain goat because I suck at climbing anyway - But it certainly feels a lot more fluid and I can hold a pace better on uphills. I think some may expect too much like a radical change when going oval - I researched it a fair amount and tend to agree with the science but don't expect to now take time out of your strava segments - Its more about pedaling efficiency and reducing dead spots on each rotation.

Now these are cool - I actually had a silver set off my dream, but i binned them some years back - can't believe i did that !

I normally ride 175mm and have always tried to keep it that way. My last build was 172.5 and can feel absolutely no difference between this bike and my other 5 road bike and 3 MTB's

Nice build - That was my thought - these carbon cages are cool but may look a bit too modern on the C40 On the other hand the gruppo I'm mounting is 11spd CHORUS Ultratorque with a set of older ZIPP 404 wheels.

So I'm busy with a C40 World Champion limited edition build - looking for recommendations on which Bottle cages to use and where can i get them

C40 HP finally finished and added to the collection

I had the same issue on my TREK Top Fuel. Removed the headset bearings and coated the seats in the frame with carbon assembly past - The inserts in the frame are carbon. I then removed the bars and use some past on the stem where it clamps to the bar. Used a torque wrench to re-assemble Sorted.

I have 2 WIN 10 Laptops both are running latest updates, Both Lenova. On the one, connecting via BT works seamless on the other its a nightmare keeps dropping signal, switching itself off etc etc etc. I could have redone my entire highschool career with the hours i spent trying to fix it. Solution = bought a ANT+ dongle - sorted ! Laptop with dongle sits about 3 m from my trainer setup and connects perfectly. Just to mention - My Laptop i'm using is a work laptop and mostly connected to work via VPN - when its connected to VPN my Zwift companion app won't link - as soon as i disconnect the VPN it connects and works perfectly.