openmind

Anyone know why you can't buy just a speed sensor for a V800 - looks like you have to buy the speed and cadence set to get the speed sensor. The cadence sensor is sold separately though.

I'm selling my Nespresso Esenza coffee machine and Aeroccino frother - see ad here: Nespresso Coffee Machine And Milk Frother

Don't knock a triple crank, especially on a bike like this where a few grams are of little concern - the ability to dump or gain a bunch of gears twice instead of just once with one click of the left shifter is invaluable, especially on undulating track where you are trying to maintain momentum and a reasonable pedal cadence. Shimano front shifting is so good that you can do this reliably under power with no mis-shifts.

Funny how simple threaded BBs just don't seem to creak; or if they do, it's easy to fix. Maybe pressfit is just a technology step too far.

Silicone spray.

They might be on to something - my heart rate drops by 3-5 bpm if I close my mouth and only breathe through my nose. Problem is, I can't keep this up as my skinny white man's nose does not let me breathe fast enough through my nose only. I've tried the strips which work until they peel off from sweat (which happens pretty quickly). Apparently, your nose conditions the air adding moisture, removing dust etc. which improves the ability of the lungs to take up O2. So the more you can breathe through your nose the better.

I raced a Pinarello Montello SLX in the early 90's and happened to be on holiday in Italy in 1992. I was in Treviso (Pinarello's home town) and looked up the local Pinarello bike shop. Giovanni Pinarello happened to be there and I started to chat to him about how I loved my bike and about Miguel Indurain who had recently won the Tour on a Pinarello. He offered to show me round the factory so I hopped into a Pinarello branded car full of carbon disk wheels (!) and we drove off to the factory where he gave me a personal guided tour, showed me his maglia nera (black jersey - for the last man in the race!) from the 1951 Giro, let me sit on Indurain's bike that still had a Tour number on it and gave me a signed poster of Big Mig! His son Fausto (who runs Pinarello today) took some pictures of us with my camera. I'll never forget that day. RIP Mr Pinarello.

Finally, a reasoned response! I was slowly going mad reading all the pseudo-science! Glad to see someone paid attention in their std 8 science class

I have the fold-up one. It's awesome, well made and easy to use. I keep it in my boot. I have a roof rack for a third bike if needed. In my experience, the three-bike racks are too closely spaced to actually fit three bikes unless you enjoy spending hours working out what permutation of bike orientation and clamp position will work for the three specific bikes you are trying to fit.

I use carbon paste on the stem / bar interface and torque to only 2/3 of the torque spec. More than tight enough and never slips. I use carbon paste even on Al /Al interfaces - works a treat.

Take it to droo - he'll sort you out. www.stokesuspension.com

Ok, I'll try... @Sworks20: Dude, women are people too. It's unacceptable to be nasty to someone just because they are a woman. Think racism, religious intolerance, etc. All no-nos. Sorry, couldn't do it with one syllable words without swearing.

I had one of the prototype Backtracker units to try for the weekend. Spent about five hours on the bike with it. It works flawlessly, exactly as advertised. Within an hour or so I found myself trusting it to the extent that I would ride to the right of the yellow line where the road was smoother and glass-free until the green light on the Backtracker display went yellow, indicating an approaching car. I quickly learned to gauge how close the cars were based on where the dot was on the display (have a look at the videos on the site to see what I mean). Once the last car had passed and I had a green light again, I would move right, knowing that the next car was at least 150m away. The device does not replace your road sense, but compliments it. It would detect a car before I could hear it, which was reassuring. I was a little more relaxed than normal having more information at my disposal about the traffic than usual. The main benefit of the device is that the rear LED is interactive, i.e. it gets brighter and flashes more quickly the closer the car is. And it gets really bright. As far as I could tell, the cars on my regular route were giving me a little more space than usual, but that is subjective, perhaps it was just because it was a quiet Sunday afternoon I like the simplicity of the device - it has not been over-engineered. It does one job very well. Personally I would like the display unit to be out on a stalk in front of my handlebars rather than on top of them - this would place it closer to my peripheral vision, meaning I would not have to look down as much to see it. There is a danger of becoming fixated on the display and not watching the road ahead. Another small issue is that the rear unit is rather wide and the way in which it mounts to the seat post made my thighs touch it when I was pushed back in the saddle (e.g. on a climb). It should perhaps be mounted differently so that it is positioned further back from the seat post. Anyway, I liked it enough to order one! Good luck iKubu, I hope they fly off the shelves!

So very Euro!

I have a RacerX (2006) hanger - if it fits it's yours.

No

You're being paranoid. Stellenbosch is crawling with cyclists at all times of the day. Your chances of being involved in an incident are extremely small. Just be sensible and avoid the known hotspots if you ride alone.

Paranoid

Drill the frame. BB shells are over-engineered anyway. If memory serves me correctly, Johan Borman was also an advocate of drilling. If you don't know, he's the Chuck Norris of bike tech.

Clean and grease the shoulders of the bolts that hold the calliper to the brake mount. Loosen both bolts slightly so that the calliper can move side-to-side. Walk the bike forward while pulling the brake lever to centre the calliper. Stop the bike, hold the brake lever in hard and carefully tighten the calliper bolts each a little at a time, alternating between them until they're tight. If the calliper moves, start again and tighten the bolts even less each time. Release the brake and spin the wheel to check alignment.

A drug test is an IQ test. Only the stupid ones get caught.

Bloody hell, Vettes, you've been through the wars. I have a spare Gobi in my parts bin - it's yours if you want it. PM me with your address and I'll send it to you. Rest up and heal well.

You will never regret buying Campag. If you look after it, the groupset will outlive you.

Oil. Just use oil. Everything else was made by some marketing department.

These are awesome brakes, I've had the original R1's for four years and love them - reliability, power, modulation and light-weight all second-to-none. I use only organic pads - the metal ones make the brakes squeal like pigs. A mate of mine prefers the metal pads (they last longer) and lives with the squeals - he calls his brakes his "Italian ladies" (they sing like opera divas). I suggest you stick to organic and just suck up the pad cost. The performance is worth it. You could also pick better lines and lay off the brakes a bit