Your Enduro ride

[GrahamS2]

on the 140mm pike?

 

I'm running 4 tokens at about 70psi. gonna probably settle on 3 tokens.

140 yes

[MarcBurger]

Appreciate the life saving

Honestly its the poor overall feel and cornering confidence that's off.

 

No clue how you understand rebound settings.

Settings are from neutral centre. So from the middle setting. -2(faster) and +1(slower) front and rear respectively.

Hence abiding by your rule of thumb.

Sounded more like a cry for help because you were about to dead sailor yourself into oblivion on the next jump, to me, so we we just trying to save your life :-) 

 

Those fork shock settings are confusing me. Is the fork 2 clicks from full slow and the shock 1 click in the opposite direction from max rebound speed? 

 

If that's the case I'd say part of your problem is right there.  My general rule of thumb is faster rebound on the fork and slower out back. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Appreciate the life saving

Honestly its the poor overall feel and cornering confidence that's off.

 

No clue how you understand rebound settings.

Settings are from neutral centre. So from the middle setting. -2(faster) and +1(slower) front and rear respectively.

Hence abiding by your rule of thumb.

Except it isn't. Fork and shock rebound settings/ clicks are different and should be measured from full open or closed. Also, one click on the shock may equal 2 on the fork Ito outright change to oil flow so a simple measure of clicks may not result in an accurate measurement of rebound damping across the 2 shocks. . In isolation, yes. Compared to each other, not necessarily. There's also the range of "useful settings" which each suspension component has. Your +2/-1 may still result in a setting which has faster rebound on the rear than in the front.

 

It's good to first set to the middle setting and play from there, but it may be that the rebound is still too fast on the rear. It's time to play around with the settings and heed what advice Bos gave above.

[Bos]

Seems the comments (however valid) got quite derailed. The essence of the post was that you don't know how bad your setup is, until you try a better one. and the quest to have a better overall setup with minimal input/change. It became more of a how-to DJ with a full sus.

Things like "just go ride your bike" are a bit of an irrelevant statement. When we're riding, we ride, we ride a lot. When we're working, we're thinking about riding, and talking about riding.

 

In a nutshell the best suggested solution was to start from scratch, now knowing how it should feel. Rather than just tweaking a bad initial setup. Then tweak things later. Will start with a potentially overdue shock service.

The cockpit will change slightly. The wheels wont.

 

Edit:

My current setup, give or take changes depending where I'm riding:

Weigh 85kg

Pike: 75psi (2 tokens), rebound 2 clicks towards faster

Rear: 30-32% sag: 1 click towards slower.

Sorry mate.

I think you misunderstood. But if the shoe fits. I was explaining the difference between DJ with FS and DJ with HT. 

 

I agree with your comments (When we're working, we're thinking about riding, and talking about riding.) you should just go ride your bike.   

[Headshot]

On the set up topic I have had an interesting two weeks. My steel HT's Pike blew its damper after a fun loop from home to Rondebosch via Kirstenbosch.  So I rode my Enduro on the green belts. It felt awful. I had just spent a lot of time on my HT and the big bike felt like I was riding a water bed in comparison.  Back on  the repaired HT at Tokai I had the opposite experience. The bike felt too hard everywhere.

 

Some changes were needed to both bikes. The Enduro got a 10 psi shock pressure increase and some more air in the rear tyre. The HT got the fork air pressure reduced and the tyres made a tad softer. The changes made a huge difference to both bikes, especially the Enduro which suddenly pedaled way better even with the shock fully open and with fewer pedal strikes. The HT was back to being a little less uncomfortable than it had been. 

 

All this made me realise how important set up is, from a long travel bike to a HT. The issues arose because of laziness. Dont be lazy.

 

So which is faster. My last two rides on the same trail with different bikes were won by the HT on several Strava  DH segments. On mellower trails the HT can hold its own easily and can be faster. Tokai and properly rough tracks are a different story...

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

On the set up topic I have had an interesting two weeks. My steel HT's Pike blew its damper after a fun loop from home to Rondebosch via Kirstenbosch.  So I rode my Enduro on the green belts. It felt awful. I had just spent a lot of time on my HT and the big bike felt like I was riding a water bed in comparison.  Back on  the repaired HT at Tokai I had the opposite experience. The bike felt too hard everywhere.

 

Some changes were needed to both bikes. The Enduro got a 10 psi shock pressure increase and some more air in the rear tyre. The HT got the fork air pressure reduced and the tyres made a tad softer. The changes made a huge difference to both bikes, especially the Enduro which suddenly pedaled way better even with the shock fully open and with fewer pedal strikes. The HT was back to being a little less uncomfortable than it had been. 

 

All this made me realise how important set up is, from a long travel bike to a HT. The issues arose because of laziness. Dont be lazy.

 

So which is faster. My last two rides on the same trail with different bikes were won by the HT on several Strava  DH segments. On mellower trails the HT can hold its own easily and can be faster. Tokai and properly rough tracks are a different story...

 

Interesting, I think too many people set and forget. Me included.

 

BTW all the above just shouts "1st world problems"................

[Headshot]

Interesting, I think too many people set and forget. Me included.

 

BTW all the above just shouts "1st world problems"................

Yup  - we should all be riding postman's bikes with rod brakes while lions chase us around. 

[Capricorn]

Some good advice here. Longer travel bikes are definitely very different to jump on steeper jumps especially. A hard tail is more predictable. With the FS, as the bike compresses through the apex of the jump it starts rebounding as you drive towards the lip, this is why your rear rebound should be slower than your front. The front wheel then leaves the lip while the rear is still busy rebounding, which can also "buck" the rider. Is that the right term? Call it nosedive...

 

I'm getting very technical here.  But the most important is to just go ride, practice makes perfect. Having said that, Body positioning / weight centering is one of the most important aspects when it comes to jumping. Make sure you're balanced & centered over your bars and you are not pedaling right up to the lip. A natural reflex action when hitting a jump when you're scared or unsure is to lean back. On a HT it will send you nose high into a dead sailor which you might land or might loop out of on the landing, but on the FS that rebound of the rear wheel will pop you straight over the bars since all your weight is on the back wheel. and your body weight will override whatever the bike does because its 10x more. 

 

Sorry to get technical here, I just went through the same thing learning to jump a FS after I use to DJ on a jump bike for many years.

fairl appropriate vid to go along with the discussion

 

[Reden]

Got some new wheels. Waited a very long time for them...

 

[RockCoach]

And you'll wait a very long time without wheels if anything goes wrong ????

[Reden]

And you'll wait a very long time without wheels if anything goes wrong

Yes, I know.

Just getting a XD freewheel body out of the importer proves to be a futile excersise.

It is the worst most non-existent service I have ever seen.

[Sparky and the Warden]

This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

 

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

????

[Rigardt@Scott]

This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

 

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

????

And that trail is just the place to put it to work!

[Eddy Gordo]

This thread has been to quiete for waaay to long. So I thought I'd post my new steed, some may recognise this Warden as it was previously Iwan Kemp's bike.

Spec is...

Knolly warden carbon frame

Fork: Mrp ribbon coil

Shock: cane creek IL coil

Cranks: Xx1 carbon

Pedals: oneup comp flats

Drivetrain: box one 11 speed

Handlebar: nukeproof horizon carbon

Dropper: Lyne 150 xl

Wheels:Lyne amp 30 with high engagement hub (loving them)

Brakes:rsc ultimate guides

 

Nice man. Enjoy plenty rides!

[Jako De Wet]

Awesome bike!

 

And I love that trail.

 

Side note: Skollied @Otero's flat Shimano Saint pedals and picking up my 2FO's tomorrow...Now I just need to get a lekker broek

 

Amped!

[henningvr]

This is my #enduro bike. Coming from riding XC bikes all my life, this has been quite the eye opener in terms of how big a difference geometry actually makes. Sections of single track that were quite daunting are now easier to negotiate, and a lot more fun (as I am not afraid of face planting anymore mainly due to the dropper post/getting my weight far enough back).

 

I'm loving every second on this bike!!

 

SILVERBACK SLADE TRAIL

 

SPECIFICATIONS

 

CRANKSET: Raceface Ride, 32t, Black

PEDALS: Shimano Saint Flat Pedals (PD-M828)

CASSETTE: Sunrace 11-46 11 Speed, 418% Wide Range

REAR DERAILEUR: Shimano XT M8000 Long Cage, Black

SHIFTER: Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed, Black

 

FORK: Rockshox Revelation Charger RC, 140mm, DebonAir, Diffusion Black, Boost 110, Charger Damper, Reduced 42mm Offset

 

WHEELS: Stan's Flow S1, 29mm Internal Width

TYRES: Maxxis Rekon 29x2.6", EXO/TR, 60Tpi

 

SEATPOST: X-Fusion Manic Dropper Post, Internal Routing, 150mm 

SADDLE: Specialized Phenom Expert 155mm

HANDLEBAR: Sector Plane Alloy Handlebar, Dia:31.8mm, Backsweep:9°, Rise 5mm; W: 780mm 

GRIPS: King Kom Silicone with KCNC 'Outta My Face' Bar End Plugs

STEM: Sector Alloy Stem, 31.8mm, Rise 6°, with stainless steel bolts; L: 45mm

 

CALIPERS: Shimano Deore MT500

LEVERS: Shimano Deore MT501

ROTORS: Shimano SM-RT76-M 180mm/180mm, 6 Bolt

 

FRAME: 29" Butted 6061 Aluminium, Tapered 1-1/8"-1.5" Headtube, 12 x 148mm, SBC 12mm Thru Axle Dropouts

 

WEIGHT: 12.96kg