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Posted

I did the clean rotors thing when i built the bike up. didnt do the sanding thing. riding tomorrow so will bed them in them. the brake leaver does not feel spongy at all.

could just be the bedding in thing-

 

thanks guys. :)

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Posted

Your pads are contaminated. Do the long downhill get-brakes-really-hot procedure. Same happened to me before, got oil on pads. I cleaned them with sunlight liquid (the only degreaser I had) and went riding. Got the brakes hot on a long long descent and they came back to life. Still using those pads today, a year on.

Posted
So after a 40km ride they seem to be stopping properly. but will change up to 203 front and 180 rear. that'll stop me! :)

 

If you not worried about the rather insignificant extra weight I think that is a great idea, makes your brake power a bit stronger and more robust/fade resistant.

Doesn't matter what type of riding you do more brakes is more brakes and its always a great thing to have a bit extra on the taps.

Posted

I'm also having problems with my rear XT brake. Works fine I guess, but I always have brake rub. Bare in mind, I know very little about MTBs so a lot of what you're about to hear will shock you.. I was told by my LBS that the disc had warped and needed to be replaced. So brand new disc and pads went on. Still rubbed. I've tried a million "tricks" like adjusting the caliper etc, but all to no avail. Sorry for the hijack, but seeing as we're on the topic of XT brakes, any advice?

 

I think the shop owes you your money and old rotors back!.

 

Try this - take out the pads and check to see where the brake caliper pistons are - ie how far the are protruding from the caliper body. I have found that even on new brakes, dirt builds up and one piston usually extends more than the other. This doesnt really affect the braking but it means that when you do the caluiper loosening and retightening trick, the caliper ends up off centre and the disc can actually rub on the caliper itself making a truly horrible noise.

 

Remove the caliper mounting bolts and pump the brakes sans pads a few times so that the pistons extend a bit, push them back in with a screw driver carefully so that the same amount of piston is showing on each side. Refit the pads and caliper and do the caliper tightening trick. This should solve the problem...

Posted

So after a 40km ride they seem to be stopping properly. but will change up to 203 front and 180 rear. that'll stop me! :)

Larger rotors not really a solution. Service caliper (remove pistons, service/lubricate o-rings), deglaze pads & rotor, bleed system, proper clean with isopropyl alcohol. Give me a call if you need help. 0827756195 (Dick)

Posted

Take your bike and some tools to the top of a very big hill with a sheer cliff on the one side. Use the tools to remove the XT brakes from your bike and then throw that k@k straight off the side of the cliff. Ride down the hill and using your takkies jammed into your back wheel stop at the nearest bike shop . Then buy AVID brakes. Bye now........

Posted

So after a 40km ride they seem to be stopping properly. but will change up to 203 front and 180 rear. that'll stop me! :)

all else fails go buy a pair of toughies and jam your foot on the back wheel that move works a charm until you miss place your foot into the wheel then its just *** and hare
Posted
I think the shop owes you your money and old rotors back!. Try this - take out the pads and check to see where the brake caliper pistons are - ie how far the are protruding from the caliper body. I have found that even on new brakes, dirt builds up and one piston usually extends more than the other. This doesnt really affect the braking but it means that when you do the caluiper loosening and retightening trick, the caliper ends up off centre and the disc can actually rub on the caliper itself making a truly horrible noise. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and pump the brakes sans pads a few times so that the pistons extend a bit, push them back in with a screw driver carefully so that the same amount of piston is showing on each side. Refit the pads and caliper and do the caliper tightening trick. This should solve the problem...

 

Exactly what i found with mine yesterday afternoon, been battling for a few weeks now (New Shimano, not XT though) with a noise / vibration coming through my whole bike on the rear, took pads out and extended the pistons and the one side was not moving at all, even when applying pressure to the "free" piston the other side would not come out.

 

Eventually got it to pop out, but in the process managed to extend the other piston a little too far and I could hear it suck in air, :blush: , bled it all the way through with new juice and now both pistons move evenly, hope it resolves the noise.

Posted

Exactly what i found with mine yesterday afternoon, been battling for a few weeks now (New Shimano, not XT though) with a noise / vibration coming through my whole bike on the rear, took pads out and extended the pistons and the one side was not moving at all, even when applying pressure to the "free" piston the other side would not come out.

 

Eventually got it to pop out, but in the process managed to extend the other piston a little too far and I could hear it suck in air, :blush: , bled it all the way through with new juice and now both pistons move evenly, hope it resolves the noise.

I have used a small wooden stick to keep one piston in while extending the other opposite one (not too much!). You can then clean the piston with a small earbud and either brake fluid of mineral oil (depending on what your brakes use) and then do the same for the other side.

Posted (edited)

Take your bike and some tools to the top of a very big hill with a sheer cliff on the one side. Use the tools to remove the XT brakes from your bike and then throw that k@k straight off the side of the cliff. Ride down the hill and using your takkies jammed into your back wheel stop at the nearest bike shop . Then buy AVID brakes. Bye now........

 

The problem is, once the shop fits Avids, he'll be downgraded from the takkies-on-wheel level of braking he'll have gotten used to...

Edited by MH for short
Posted

The problem is, once the shop fits Avids, he'll be downgraded from the takkies-on-wheel level of braking he'll have gotten used to...

MBP didn't see that coming...boooooom

Posted

The problem is, once the shop fits Avids, he'll be downgraded from the takkies-on-wheel level of braking he'll have gotten used to...

Yissie almost an hour to get a bite....niiiiice :thumbup:
Posted

I think the shop owes you your money and old rotors back!.

 

Try this - take out the pads and check to see where the brake caliper pistons are - ie how far the are protruding from the caliper body. I have found that even on new brakes, dirt builds up and one piston usually extends more than the other. This doesnt really affect the braking but it means that when you do the caluiper loosening and retightening trick, the caliper ends up off centre and the disc can actually rub on the caliper itself making a truly horrible noise.

 

Remove the caliper mounting bolts and pump the brakes sans pads a few times so that the pistons extend a bit, push them back in with a screw driver carefully so that the same amount of piston is showing on each side. Refit the pads and caliper and do the caliper tightening trick. This should solve the problem...

 

Thanks so much! Gonna give it a go over the weekend.

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