droenn Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 Mine has been through numerous forms, started with 1x1 with a Paul chainkeeper, then I had to get gears on the bike, and so had 1x9 with the Paul Chainkeeper, and SLX 10sp+ RD and a 9sp SRAM gripshift. This didn't work too well, there was a small diff in the leverage ratio, even with a spacer on the RD, and the chainkeeper didn't like to work with the gears, even with the clutch RD.Next I bought 10sp cassette, and a 10sp Zee shifter, but the budget wouldn't allow for a NW chainring at that time so I persisted with the Paul Chainkeeper, but that wasn't too successful. The bike is meant to be a SS so I wanted a solution that would work for me, a chainkeeper, and in particular the MRP chainkeeper(X0) would do the trick, about around that time I saw one at a good price on the Hub, so contacted the seller, who had retracted his ad, but we came to an agreement, and I now had the chainkeeper in my grubby paws, and proceeded to install it, and it works a treat, the chain won't be dropped at all, even on the rockiest trails.The chainkeeper with a normal SLX chainring20140306_153017.jpg The bike as SS with the chainkeeper20140306_153028.jpg The bike with 1x1020140418_093054.jpg Very nice! Those Ragley frames look awesome, did you order in from UK?
deanbean Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 Very nice! Those Ragley frames look awesome, did you order in from UK?A year ago from Chain Reaction. I really like the feel of the bike.
BBN Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 This is true, then how do you get the line to be much better with a standard 2x10 setup using a single N/W ring in front? I have an entry level SRAM crankset, and was planning on getting a single N/W on the front, do I just move that spacer to the none drive side? Would that not move it too far into the frame and have other problems? Otherwise can anyone else give some suggestions since we are here, and then I dont have to read through 200 pages of varying information See my previous post, put a spacer between the crank spider and the NW chainring. Make sure your chainring bolts are long enough.
Thermophage Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 This is true, then how do you get the line to be much better with a standard 2x10 setup using a single N/W ring in front? I have an entry level SRAM crankset, and was planning on getting a single N/W on the front, do I just move that spacer to the none drive side? Would that not move it too far into the frame and have other problems? Otherwise can anyone else give some suggestions since we are here, and then I dont have to read through 200 pages of varying information spacers between the chainring and spider (you can use spring washers as finding the real spacers in RSA is basically impossible). You can also change up spacers on your BB. I moved mine from the drive to non-drive side and made the chainline much better for the range of gears I use most (towards the larger end OFC).
Rick Sanchez Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 This is true, then how do you get the line to be much better with a standard 2x10 setup using a single N/W ring in front? I have an entry level SRAM crankset, and was planning on getting a single N/W on the front, do I just move that spacer to the none drive side? Would that not move it too far into the frame and have other problems? Otherwise can anyone else give some suggestions since we are here, and then I dont have to read through 200 pages of varying information I you have a 3x10 crank then you have no problem. Just put the NW ring where the middle ring used to be. On a 2x10, do as they said and use spacers.
Jimmy 2.0 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 I also had that issue...so swapped the spacers on the BB to the non-drive side. Not eh chainline (IMHO) is better for the higher gears (larger) where you tend to apply much more torque. Chainline on 1X is never going to be great. You can also use spring washers between the spider and chainring (because finding the REAL spacers is almost impossible) to shift the chainline a little better you can also use standard washers to It up
Shepherd Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 I you have a 3x10 crank then you have no problem. Just put the NW ring where the middle ring used to be. On a 2x10, do as they said and use spacers. Thanks everyone for the information. I will check out the spacers and play around... Will also go to the start page and read properly!!!! hahaha Thanks again guys, will post my pics in about two weeks time
shaper Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 My Niner EMD .. Rapide 34T on XTR crank, XT RD with 11-36 cassette
DuncanDoughnuts Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 My setup- depending on where I'm riding i switch between a 32 and a 30 front ring. 11-42 at the back.
Fisan Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 I'll post my 1x10 conversation later , but just a note on chain lines and washers. To sum up hours of 1x10 research and some practical findings:3x Crankset > 2x CranksetDO use washers if you want to chainline adjustment: this way you also save yourself from having to buy singlespeed specific chainring bolts which costs $$$.Also, file the washers for smaller chainrings.Do NOT use spring washers - they will dig into your crankset/spider/chainring.Do not adjust BB spacers (at least not on the Shimano hubs). The specific spacer setup is there for a reason. The spacers allows the BB to be correctly alligned to the shell threads. Though I haven't heard of any damage cases, this is not recommended.If you are planning to convert to 1x10, make sure your NW ring won't be obstructed by your chainstay (I can't fit 36+T on my Scott Scale without compromising my chain alignment). No one warned me on this. I now have a 2mm gap between my 32T chainring and chainstay.Anyways, let's get the camera...
stephan99 Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 My setup- 11-36 with XT shadow+ rear derailleur, race face NW 32t front ring. Got the Cguide chain guide just to keep the chain from slamming the chainstay. Hoping to get a OneUp 42t and rad cage in the next few months. Will allow me to go 34 in the front.
Fisan Posted November 13, 2014 Posted November 13, 2014 Didn't have time to put the make up on... XT RD Long Cage | 11 - 36 SLX | 32 RaceFace NW + washers http://i.imgur.com/37SD04w.jpg The not-so-shiny drivetrainhttp://i.imgur.com/jgCmZKv.jpg Some washers to get the chain alignment inwards (and also utilize the longer chainring bolts)http://i.imgur.com/FlLNAh8.jpg
Grey Hubs Posted November 16, 2014 Posted November 16, 2014 Lappier 10 x 1 XTR conversion done by Bicycle Supply Chain. 34 Wolf with 11-40 XTR
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