Post your woodwork here

[patches]

Hahahahahahahahahaha!

 

Neodymium magnets. Cheap. Lol.

 

 

Surprisingly they arent too bad, which is just weird for SA!

I have bought a few times from these guys in the past: https://magnetstore.co.za/ (for any SA people who want some)

I bought a few block shaped ones for this exact project about 2 years ago, but since I havent actually built the kitchen yet Im not sure where to temporarily mount it.

 

 

I was in an art supply store a few weeks ago and saw what they were charging for them, its absolutely crazy. The guys at magnet store are way cheaper and have super fast turnaround times.

 

 

Experilab also sell at reasonable (I thought) prices.

 

 

I initially got some round test magnets (22mm diameter x 8mm thick) from a hardware store, just to test a proof of concept. Those alone were about R160 equiv for a 2 pack.

 

I then ordered the bar magnets (80x9x9mm with 21kg pull force) from a specialist supplier (magnets.co.nz) and they worked out to about R800 equiv (incl shipping) for the 5 magnets required. Ouch!

 

I may take a gamble on some Aliexpress offerings and see what they're like.

[carrera4s]

Soon!  Just give me a day or three!  Just finishing off two small trimmings and apply some preliminary finish.

 

Maybe just a teaser or two...

 

 

 

 

A few more progress photos:

 

Bench flattened and levelled.  This is the heap of shavings just from flattening the top:

 

 

Bench flipped over to cut the ends square from the bottom as well (my track saw only cuts c 52 mm deep with the track - top is 120 mm thick):

 

 

End grain after cutting:

 

 

End grain after cleaning up with the No 7 and No 6:

 

 

Hard work for such few shavings....:  

 

 

Some of the wedged tenon details:

 

 

And one coat of Danish oil...  The breadboard end on the right still needs some work for the end cap.

 

 

I had a piece of leftover hardekool that I am making a coffee table from.   Here I am squaring and bevelling the cut edges.  Just three edges and all three planes are blunt again (5, 6 and 7)!

 

[patches]

A few more progress photos:

 

Bench flattened and levelled.  This is the heap of shavings just from flattening the top:

 

WB 26a.jpg

 

Bench flipped over to cut the ends square from the bottom as well (my track saw only cuts c 52 mm deep with the track - top is 120 mm thick):

 

WB 26b.jpg

 

End grain after cutting:

 

WB 27.jpg

 

End grain after cleaning up with the No 7 and No 6:

 

WB 28.jpg

 

Hard work for such few shavings....:  

 

WB 29.jpg

 

Some of the wedged tenon details:

 

WB 31.jpg

 

And one coat of Danish oil...  The breadboard end on the right still needs some work for the end cap.

 

WB 32.jpg

 

I had a piece of leftover hardekool that I am making a coffee table from.   Here I am squaring and bevelling the cut edges.  Just three edges and all three planes are blunt again (5, 6 and 7)!

 

WB 33.jpg

WB 34.jpg

 

wow.

 

(saying anything else seems redundant)

[DJR]

WOW

[patches]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

1. Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
2. Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
3. Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
4. Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one 

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling. 

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

 

 

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

Edited December 9, 2020 by patches

[carrera4s]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

......

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

 

I also immediately thought about 45 degree dowels, but also realised it can possibly be a pain to drill them accurately.

 

If you don't manage to drill that accurately, maybe oversize some of the holes and use some epoxy to fill the gaps.

Edited December 10, 2020 by carrera4s

[Stretched@Birth]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

• Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
• Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
• Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
• Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling.

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

Shelf with Dowels_01.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_02.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_03.PNG

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

Maybe a French Cleat could work. The 18mm to 20mm thickness might be a limiting factor though.

[Grebel]

Why not make them as a two piece unit then the fitment would be perpendicular to each wall. Accuracy in aligning your fixings would get the tops flush.

[stefmeister]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

1. Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
2. Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
3. Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
4. Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one 

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling. 

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

Shelf with Dowels_01.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_02.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_03.PNG

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

 

It simple really, fasten to one wall as per your diagram, and make a slot (either rebate or dovetail if you feel adventurous) in the other edge that slides the shelf in perpendicular.

Also, 18-20 mm shelves are rather thin, unless you're going for an elegant look. Personally, 32-50 mm is ideal for floating shelves IMO.

As much as I prefer solid wood over ply/chipboard, it's a bit overkill to use solid hardwood for something that is not entirely visible, apart from the front edge. . The ones I've made before, I make a sandwich of 3 layers of veneered board. The middle 'layer' is basically hollow to allow for wall mounting slots. Edges are covered in either hardwood or if I can find 50 mm edge banding. 

[stefmeister]

A few more progress photos:

 

Bench flattened and levelled.  This is the heap of shavings just from flattening the top:

 

WB 26a.jpg

 

Bench flipped over to cut the ends square from the bottom as well (my track saw only cuts c 52 mm deep with the track - top is 120 mm thick):

 

WB 26b.jpg

 

End grain after cutting:

 

WB 27.jpg

 

End grain after cleaning up with the No 7 and No 6:

 

WB 28.jpg

 

Hard work for such few shavings....:  

 

WB 29.jpg

 

Some of the wedged tenon details:

 

WB 31.jpg

 

And one coat of Danish oil...  The breadboard end on the right still needs some work for the end cap.

 

WB 32.jpg

 

I had a piece of leftover hardekool that I am making a coffee table from.   Here I am squaring and bevelling the cut edges.  Just three edges and all three planes are blunt again (5, 6 and 7)!

 

WB 33.jpg

WB 34.jpg

 

Well done. I see there's a cut out for an end vise - what are you going to use for it?

[Capricorn]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

1. Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
2. Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
3. Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
4. Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one 

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling. 

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

Shelf with Dowels_01.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_02.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_03.PNG

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

2 pieces. 

top half and bottom cover. You are just worried about downward vertical support, so the bottom can just be a cosmetic plate. Then you can have simple, straight dowels. no need for fancy alignment so things slide on just ride. Also the bottom plate gives you a chance to add and hide wiring for undercounting strip lighting. and it's servicable if required.

Edited December 10, 2020 by Capricorn

[Hairy]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

1. Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
2. Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
3. Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
4. Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one 

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling. 

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

Shelf with Dowels_01.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_02.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_03.PNG

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

French cleats may simplify the whole installation

[Rocket-Boy]

Another woodwork question to this experienced bunch...

 

I want to make some floating shelves. I know there are 1000+ youtube vids on DIY floating shelves, but I have a few tricky constraints/parameters that I'm trying to think my way around.

 

1. Corner: I want to make a shelf that bends around a corner in my kitchen. This means that many of the dowel methods may not work as the shelf needs to be pushed into position against 2 planes.
2. Wall Composition: This shelf will be installed on subway tiles on a frames wall (timber framing with drywall lining). So support methids may be limited and have to line up with the wall studs.
3. Shelf Composition: I want to make the shelf out of solid hard maple. Likely 20-18mm think (depending on how much I need to plane back). Many of the floating shelf designs are either framing with hollow plywood shells inserted over, or thick (30mm +) pieces of timber.
4. Shelf Size and Capacity: The shelves will only be about 100-120mm deep, and only be carrying some small items like salt & pepper grinders and spice jars. The relatively small cantilever should mean support s don't have to be ultra beefy.

Some of the ideas that may work:

 

Pocket holes with long screws going through carefully drilled holes in the tiles, straight into the studs. However I don't have a pocket hole jig, and don't feel like spending $200 on one 

 

Another idea is the dowel method but in stead of having the dowels perpendicular to the bracket (which based on the corner design means that the shelf cannot be slid onto the dowels in both the X and the Y direction), the dowels are at 45deg to the brackets so that the corner shelf slides on in 1 direction towards the corner. The catch with this is that one would have to be VERY accurate with their drilling. 

 

Here's a quick design I threw together of what these 45deg dowels may look like

 

Shelf with Dowels_01.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_02.PNG

 

Shelf with Dowels_03.PNG

 

Dowel positioning and length will be refined. And as for drilling them, they on't have to be a perfect 45deg, as long as they are all parallel. I reckon a jig to hold the wood at an angle in the drill press may work.

 

I'd drill the holes first, then cut off the little wedge part that forms the wall bracket. That way the holes should all line up. I will lose a kerf's worth of length and grain won't be perfect, but small price to pay for lines up dowels.

 

So yeah, I'm keen to hear what you guys may think, or if you have any other smart ideas?!

My brother in law has quite a simple but strong solution for these situations.

He uses really long coach bolts screwed into the wall, you would only need to do one side, they are strong.

Next he cuts the bolt head off with an angle grinder which just leaves the threaded bar sticking out.

Hold up the edge of the shelf and mark the centers of the bolts. Drill slightly oversized holes and jam some construction adhesive in them.

Push the shelf on and its done.

 

Its surprising how strong they are, none of his shelves he did have sagged at all.

[Hairy]

My brother in law has quite a simple but strong solution for these situations.

He uses really long coach bolts screwed into the wall, you would only need to do one side, they are strong.

Next he cuts the bolt head off with an angle grinder which just leaves the threaded bar sticking out.

Hold up the edge of the shelf and mark the centers of the bolts. Drill slightly oversized holes and jam some construction adhesive in them.

Push the shelf on and its done.

 

Its surprising how strong they are, none of his shelves he did have sagged at all.

Many of our contractors do this, but it would rely on a decent brick wall to start with.

 

Scott Brown did a floating TV unit not too long ago and did something similar, but braced the timber wall studwork and cantilevered timber sections off this ... with a little modifications it would work as a structural fixing. 

 

[Rocket-Boy]

Many of our contractors do this, but it would rely on a decent brick wall to start with.

 

Scott Brown did a floating TV unit not too long ago and did something similar, but braced the timber wall studwork and cantilevered timber sections off this ... with a little modifications it would work as a structural fixing. 

 

Wouldnt it be strong enough if the coach bolts were in the center of each stud?

The studs are oriented in a way that there would be quite a lot of thread depth in each one.

 

I dont know too much about the loadbearing capacities of wooden structures, but the Americans I watch on Youtube seem to mount some pretty heavy items if they are directly into studs.

[Craai]

A few more progress photos:

 

Bench flattened and levelled.  This is the heap of shavings just from flattening the top:

 

WB 26a.jpg

 

Bench flipped over to cut the ends square from the bottom as well (my track saw only cuts c 52 mm deep with the track - top is 120 mm thick):

 

WB 26b.jpg

 

End grain after cutting:

 

WB 27.jpg

 

End grain after cleaning up with the No 7 and No 6:

 

WB 28.jpg

 

Hard work for such few shavings....:  

 

WB 29.jpg

 

Some of the wedged tenon details:

 

WB 31.jpg

 

And one coat of Danish oil...  The breadboard end on the right still needs some work for the end cap.

 

WB 32.jpg

 

I had a piece of leftover hardekool that I am making a coffee table from.   Here I am squaring and bevelling the cut edges.  Just three edges and all three planes are blunt again (5, 6 and 7)!

 

WB 33.jpg

WB 34.jpg

 

 

That's stunning; well done; your workbench looks better than the furniture in my house   

TBH, I would be quite apprehensive to use it for it's intended purpose; my idea of workbench is the cheapest wood I could find put together as quickly and sturdy as possible; definitely not something I would feel sorry for. 

Edited December 10, 2020 by Craai