Post your woodwork here

[stefmeister]

I dont like mitre saws for framing applications, they arent accurate enough for me.

I instead use a picture framing sled on my table saw, the included angles always match up and the joints are always tight.

I think it took me around 30 mins to make that last sled, its not pretty but it does an amazing job.

My wife is an artist so Im forever making frames for her work and its quick and easy.

 

For architraves, a mitre saw will do just fine as you'll most likely only have 2 mitred corners per window/door frame, and the odds of everything being perfectly square is close to zero.  

But for framing, totally agree with you. For 4 angled 45 cuts, it's quite difficult with a mitre saw. Some okes claim the Festool saw gives perfect cuts, but that's serious money.

My Bosch glide saw sucks for absolute dead accurate cuts, which reminds me I'll most likely have to make a sled too for upcoming mirror frame project.

[patches]

Some advice needed from you clever woodworkers. I am in the process of replacing the old steel window frames in my place with nice new wooden ones - nice chunky profile 92mm x 60mm.

 

I want to do architraves around the frames and feel like tackling the project myself. Any good Youtube channels I can search for videos of how to do this?

 

Also essential equipment? Mitre Saw?

 

Anyone in Cape Town want some decent windows / doors made by an old Italian family who do things properly I can recommend Colatruglio and Sons in Durbanville. Absolute quality.

 

 

I dont like mitre saws for framing applications, they arent accurate enough for me.

I instead use a picture framing sled on my table saw, the included angles always match up and the joints are always tight.

I think it took me around 30 mins to make that last sled, its not pretty but it does an amazing job.

My wife is an artist so Im forever making frames for her work and its quick and easy.

 

I guess the other question is whether the architraves are to be painted or not.

 

Paint (and no-more-gaps) can hide a multitude of sins

 

As Rocket-Boy mentioned, a mitre saw will not be as accurate as a dedicated framing sled for a table saw. 

 

However the chances that your window openings are perfectly square is slim-to-none, so pefectly 45deg cuts may not help you anyway.

 

What may help is something like a Starret protractor

 

 

I've been installing a fair amount of new skirting board, cornices and the odd architrave or 2 over the past year and this little tool has helped get more accurate angles on out-of-square walls and windows.

[patches]

This past weekend was a long one here in NZ and with the better-half away in Aus, I decided it was a good time to make some mess...

 

Behold... some nasty swirly textured ceilings with ugly power-hungry lights.

 

 

After Dexter-ing up the hallway it was time to start the messy work

 

 

The manky "insul-fluff" insulation goes everywhere. Between a rake and a garden-vac I managed to clear most of it up.

 

 

 

After sorting out some electrical for the new lights (and a 24V supply to my Google Nest Doorbell) the new insulation needed to be installed. But before I could do that I had to remove some of the nogs between the joists as they were down the centre of the hallway, which meant I couldn't install downlights in those positions. 

 

I replaced the single removed nogs with 2 offset to either side (as seen by the pink treated timber). Then some new R3.2 pink bats could go in. The new framing nail gun was a treat when installing the new nogs!

 

 

After that it was the real challenge. The crazy (or lazy) part of me decided to try get away with installing 1 giant sheet of drywall, to avoid having to plaster the joints. The hallway is 5.2m long by 1.2m wide. The largest board available is 6m x 1.2m, and because it's a ceiling I went for 13mm thick (as the 10mm versions tend to sag).

 

The result more physical exertion than I have done in a while. Fortunately I had a drywall lifter, but wrestling a 50kg 5m sheet along a hallway that it just fits through was still no easy task.

 

I ended up trimming 20mm off the width of the board because it kept getting wedged when trying to lay it flat up against the joists, but ultimately, it worked!

 

Here it is, installed with probably over a 100 drywall screws (thank goodness for autofeed collated screw guns) and a all 3 coats of plaster over the screw dimples. Zigbee controlled smart downlights with a Zigbee smart switch which all work with Philips Hue, also installed.

 

 

Unfortunately I didn't get as far as installing the cornice, sanding and painting this weekend, as I had to wait for the 3rd coat of plaster to dry. But all-in-all, it went pretty well.

Edited April 26, 2021 by patches

[GrahamS2]

After that it was the real challenge. The crazy (or lazy) part of me decided to try get away with installing 1 giant sheet of drywall, to avoid having to plaster the joints. The hallway is 5.2m long by 1.2m wide. The largest board available is 6m x 1.2m, and because it's a ceiling I went for 13mm thick (as the 10mm versions tend to sag).

 

 

How did you get a 6m long board to your house???

[patches]

How did you get a 6m long board to your house???

 

I had it delivered direct from the manufacturer, through one of the big building supply chains (Placemakers).

 

Bunnings wanted to charge $270 delivery to do the 1 board (which itself is only about $60). Part of that high cost is because of the small order quantity, and part is because they get the manufacturer to delivery to my local Bunnings branch, then that branch has to hire a truck big enough.

 

Or if I increased the order to all the boards I need to do the rest of my ceilings (10 sheets of various sizes, approx $400 worth), delivery would be over $600, $350 of which I would get back when I return the special pallets to them, but how am I supposed to return giant plasterboard pallets if I can't transport giant plaster boards in the first place.

 

So although I paid more for the boards from Placemakers (about $520), they charge a flat rate of $100 delivery (as they just get the manufacturer to deliver direct). Plus they deliver about 1 week quicker.

 

EDIT: That said, I did have to buy 2x 2400x1200x18mm sheets of ply to create a sturdy lean surface to store the boards in my garage. Those sheets, along with 2x 5.4m lengths of cornice, got transported on the roofrack of a Polo

Edited April 27, 2021 by patches

[bertusras]

Having installed a ceiling in a double garage earlier this year, I don't envy you at all. Great job!

[Hairy]

This past weekend was a long one here in NZ and with the better-half away in Aus, I decided it was a good time to make some mess...

 

Behold... some nasty swirly textured ceilings with ugly power-hungry lights.

 

20210423_183519.jpg

 

After Dexter-ing up the hallway it was time to start the messy work

 

IMG-20210424-WA0003.jpg

 

The manky "insul-fluff" insulation goes everywhere. Between a rake and a garden-vac I managed to clear most of it up.

 

IMG-20210424-WA0007.jpg

 

IMG-20210424-WA0014.jpg

 

After sorting out some electrical for the new lights (and a 24V supply to my Google Nest Doorbell) the new insulation needed to be installed. But before I could do that I had to remove some of the nogs between the joists as they were down the centre of the hallway, which meant I couldn't install downlights in those positions. 

 

I replaced the single removed nogs with 2 offset to either side (as seen by the pink treated timber). Then some new R3.2 pink bats could go in. The new framing nail gun was a treat when installing the new nogs!

 

IMG-20210425-WA0015.jpg

 

After that it was the real challenge. The crazy (or lazy) part of me decided to try get away with installing 1 giant sheet of drywall, to avoid having to plaster the joints. The hallway is 5.2m long by 1.2m wide. The largest board available is 6m x 1.2m, and because it's a ceiling I went for 13mm thick (as the 10mm versions tend to sag).

 

The result more physical exertion than I have done in a while. Fortunately I had a drywall lifter, but wrestling a 50kg 5m sheet along a hallway that it just fits through was still no easy task.

 

I ended up trimming 20mm off the width of the board because it kept getting wedged when trying to lay it flat up against the joists, but ultimately, it worked!

 

Here it is, installed with probably over a 100 drywall screws (thank goodness for autofeed collated screw guns) and a all 3 coats of plaster over the screw dimples. Zigbee controlled smart downlights with a Zigbee smart switch which all work with Philips Hue, also installed.

 

IMG-20210426-WA0007.jpg

 

Unfortunately I didn't get as far as installing the cornice, sanding and painting this weekend, as I had to wait for the 3rd coat of plaster to dry. But all-in-all, it went pretty well.

Well done ... I see you went full Scott Brown, and it looks like you vacuumed the trusses!

[MTBeer]

I guess the other question is whether the architraves are to be painted or not.

 

Paint (and no-more-gaps) can hide a multitude of sins

 

As Rocket-Boy mentioned, a mitre saw will not be as accurate as a dedicated framing sled for a table saw. 

 

However the chances that your window openings are perfectly square is slim-to-none, so pefectly 45deg cuts may not help you anyway.

 

What may help is something like a Starret protractor

 

 

I've been installing a fair amount of new skirting board, cornices and the odd architrave or 2 over the past year and this little tool has helped get more accurate angles on out-of-square walls and windows.

What sort of gap filler is best. The normal Brummer Wood Filler?

[MTBeer]

What sort of gap filler is best. The normal Brummer Wood Filler?

[Hairy]

3037.jpg

What about body filler as an option

[Kranswurm]

What about body filler as an option

Wrong expansion and contraction for wood.Why anyway when we have the correct product

[patches]

What sort of gap filler is best. The normal Brummer Wood Filler?

 

As all my trim mouldings are white, I just went for a white wood filler (whatever's cheapest at the hardware stores here in NZ). 

 

That said, because I use an 18Ga brad nailer to fit most of it, the holes left behind are tiny. With wall screws one will have to finesse the filling a little more to make the fasteners invisible, but a decent fill and sand and you should be fine! 

Edited April 27, 2021 by patches

[Hairy]

As all my trim mouldings are white, I just went for a white wood filler (whatever's cheapest at the hardware stores here in NZ). 

 

That said, because I use an 18Ga brad nailer to fit most of it, the holes left behind are tiny. With wall screws one will have to finesse the filling a little more to make the fasteners invisible, but a decent fill and sand and you should be fine! 

Take a look at how he fills nail holes quickly around the 10:55 mark

[Ed-Zulu]

This past weekend was a long one here in NZ and with the better-half away in Aus, I decided it was a good time to make some mess...

 

Behold... some nasty swirly textured ceilings with ugly power-hungry lights.

 

20210423_183519.jpg

 

After Dexter-ing up the hallway it was time to start the messy work

 

IMG-20210424-WA0003.jpg

 

The manky "insul-fluff" insulation goes everywhere. Between a rake and a garden-vac I managed to clear most of it up.

 

IMG-20210424-WA0007.jpg

 

IMG-20210424-WA0014.jpg

 

After sorting out some electrical for the new lights (and a 24V supply to my Google Nest Doorbell) the new insulation needed to be installed. But before I could do that I had to remove some of the nogs between the joists as they were down the centre of the hallway, which meant I couldn't install downlights in those positions. 

 

I replaced the single removed nogs with 2 offset to either side (as seen by the pink treated timber). Then some new R3.2 pink bats could go in. The new framing nail gun was a treat when installing the new nogs!

 

IMG-20210425-WA0015.jpg

 

After that it was the real challenge. The crazy (or lazy) part of me decided to try get away with installing 1 giant sheet of drywall, to avoid having to plaster the joints. The hallway is 5.2m long by 1.2m wide. The largest board available is 6m x 1.2m, and because it's a ceiling I went for 13mm thick (as the 10mm versions tend to sag).

 

The result more physical exertion than I have done in a while. Fortunately I had a drywall lifter, but wrestling a 50kg 5m sheet along a hallway that it just fits through was still no easy task.

 

I ended up trimming 20mm off the width of the board because it kept getting wedged when trying to lay it flat up against the joists, but ultimately, it worked!

 

Here it is, installed with probably over a 100 drywall screws (thank goodness for autofeed collated screw guns) and a all 3 coats of plaster over the screw dimples. Zigbee controlled smart downlights with a Zigbee smart switch which all work with Philips Hue, also installed.

 

IMG-20210426-WA0007.jpg

 

Unfortunately I didn't get as far as installing the cornice, sanding and painting this weekend, as I had to wait for the 3rd coat of plaster to dry. But all-in-all, it went pretty well.

I love your projects, you are busy man indeed and some quality stuff for a DIY'er working at a hospital on a far flung island!

[Hairy]

I love your projects, you are busy man indeed and some quality stuff for a DIY'er working at a hospital on a far flung island!

When he said the ceiling board was a special order, he meant to say he took it from the hospital stores and transported it on an ambulance's roof to his house ....................

[patches]

I love your projects, you are busy man indeed and some quality stuff for a DIY'er working at a hospital on a far flung island!

 

Thanks Ed! Keeps me outta trouble and gives me an excuse to buy tools without my partner batting an eye. Plus at the labour rate of tradies in New Zealand, I'd be broke!

 

When he said the ceiling board was a special order, he meant to say he took it from the hospital stores and transported it on an ambulance's roof to his house ....................

 

Haha, you joke but if I took ceiling board from the hospital they would probably contain asbestos   

 

Coincidentally the head of asbestos management was kind enough to lend me his drywall lifter to assist with the job. These contraptions are game changers when it comes to installing plasterboard ceilings.

 

Edited April 28, 2021 by patches