Saddle Height?

[Grey Hubs]

Tape measure in the wrong direction   OUTSTANDING!

[Long Wheel Base]

Ok here are the pics- damn hard to take but there-

 

I have flipped the stem. Bar is flat. No spacers. I should mention that I recently upgraded the fork from 100mm to 120mm.

 

I was thinking 27.5 or a Medium 29er but reading all the above I am not so sure. My saddle is comfy for me as it is now. I could source a shorter crank its now 175mm but I could source maybe 170mm but they seem hard to find?

 

Also as Myles said I am seriously thinking of a shorter stem which would slightly lower the stem height, paired with wider bars and as Myles said not a riser bar. 

 

Never done a bike fit. Maybe I should.

 

 

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I would honestly get longer socks before worrying about saddle height.  

[Halfdoesyn]

You can also fiddle with the bike fitting tool on https://www.competitivecyclist.com/

[Jewbacca]

You can also fiddle with the bike fitting tool on https://www.competitivecyclist.com/

All this talk of dressing to the left and you just had to add the word 'fiddle'?

[Frosty]

Tape measure in the wrong direction   OUTSTANDING!

Stack height is measured in the same direction

[Grey Hubs]

By the looks of the amount of dropper post sticking out from the seat post clamp, the frame size does not look far off...

[scubes]

wow i did this and it worked perfectly

 

thanks dude...

 

This is remarkably accurate. Thanks!

 

How far fore/aft your saddle is will also have a baring on this. If you move it forward, you can raise it a bit, then drop it if you move it backwards, but only 10mm or so either way. Moving it back will give more power on flats, forward a bit more on steeper climbs. Further back will put more weight on your wrists though. At least that's what I've found

 

[scubes]

the shorter socks makes me more streamlined and saves me 1 second per km ridden...

it also means less washing etc... 

 

I would honestly get longer socks before worrying about saddle height.  

 

[Spafsack]

Hi guys, i get the feeling that my saddle could go a tad higher, like a very small bit. Looking at MTB saddle height on google, it says that you should still have a slight bend in your leg when at bottom of stroke. Like i said, it feels as if i could go higher as when i pedal, my knees look bent, as if they could stretch out more. Does anyone else have this. I feel as i might be loosing power and its not good for me in the long run.

 

Looking at others while cycling, it seems there legs stretch out almost straight. I know the ins and outs, saddle to high, and your ass starts shifting side to side, i guess i must just push it up by mm and see how it goes. Just thought i would ask, see what others have to say.  

[Butterbean]

Hi guys, i get the feeling that my saddle could go a tad higher, like a very small bit. Looking at MTB saddle height on google, it says that you should still have a slight bend in your leg when at bottom of stroke. Like i said, it feels as if i could go higher as when i pedal, my knees look bent, as if they could stretch out more. Does anyone else have this. I feel as i might be loosing power and its not good for me in the long run.

 

Looking at others while cycling, it seems there legs stretch out almost straight. I know the ins and outs, saddle to high, and your ass starts shifting side to side, i guess i must just push it up by mm and see how it goes. Just thought i would ask, see what others have to say.

I personally go as high as i can without my hips rocking side to side on the saddle.

 

If you're not sure though, just pay the small amount it costs for a basic bike fit. I prefer the fit Spez stores do, but that's up to you. They're well worth it for more than just the sadddle height.

[gtr1]

Easy old school test. Place your heals on the pedals. Pedal and your knee should be straighten at the furtherest point without stretching and no sideways wobble on the saddle. Then height more or less correct.

 

In other words pedal comfortably with the heels. With no bend in knee.

 

Best option, go for a proper bike fit.

[Frosty]

Below is the static method used to set your saddle height.

1. Take your shoes off, feet shoulder-width apart;
2. Place a book between your legs and as high up as possible under your crotch;
3. Get someone to measure your inseam from the top of the book to the floor;
4. Multiply that measurement by 0.883;
5. Set your saddle height to the measurement obtained in step 4, from the centre of your BB to the top of your saddle;
6. Then sit on your saddle with shoes on, and place the heel on the pedal when it's in the lowest position - your leg should now be straight, without you having to rock your hips to either side. When cleated in, there should be a slight bend in your leg when the pedal is in the same position.

If you Google this, you'll find plenty sites showing it in pictures.

[Spafsack]

Hi GTR, this is also my go to old school method. When i do this my leg is not fully straight, i am glad you mentioned this. I think i will up it by a few mm and go do my usual 20km route, see how it feels, make sure i am not rocking on the saddle. Thanx all. 

 

 

 

 

Easy old school test. Place your heals on the pedals. Pedal and your knee should be straighten at the furtherest point without stretching and no sideways wobble on the saddle. Then height more or less correct.

 

In other words pedal comfortably with the heels. With no bend in knee.

 

Best option, go for a proper bike fit.

[andreas17777]

Below is the static method used to set your saddle height.

1. Take your shoes off, feet shoulder-width apart;
2. Place a book between your legs and as high up as possible under your crotch;
3. Get someone to measure your inseam from the top of the book to the floor;
4. Multiply that measurement by 0.883;
5. Set your saddle height to the measurement obtained in step 4, from the centre of your BB to the top of your saddle;
6. Then sit on your saddle with shoes on, and place the heel on the pedal when it's in the lowest position - your leg should now be straight, without you having to rock your hips to either side. When cleated in, there should be a slight bend in your leg when the pedal is in the same position.

If you Google this, you'll find plenty sites showing it in pictures.

Should you not have your shoes on when measuring your inseam? GCN has a great tutorial?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxRVphhR_Ww

[Frosty]

Should you not have your shoes on when measuring your inseam? GCN has a great tutorial?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxRVphhR_Ww

Yes and no.

 

The Lemond method used a 15mm stack height of the pedal, and was included in the formula to calculate the saddle height. There is a variation of measuring (with shoes on), and using the same inseam method, but multiplying the measurement by 109%. The distance is then used from the pedal to saddle top, when the crank is at the bottom of the stroke AND inline with the seat post.

 

As mentioned before, these are static saddle height methods, as flexibility makes a difference as does different but types (longer legs, shorter torso, etc.).

 

In my case, my saddle height was set without shoes, and was spot on when I went for a bike setup - the fit technician asked if I had a fitment before. I guess I was one of those that fits with the standard measurement methods.

[Eldron]

My current favourite DIY seat height hack is to pedal with your hips stable and your heels as far down as they can go. It's pretty awkward.

 

At the full extension of your stroke (crank in line with the seat tube not the 6'o'clok position) the bottom of your heel should be inline with the bottom of your toes.

 

You'll need a buddy of course and don't rock your pelvis.

 

Saddle too high is way more common than saddle too low in my experience.

 

Random note - when your saddle is too high your pelvis doesn't move side to side it rotates (with the symphysis pubis (kekekeke) as the axis so that the side you're applying power is lower/correct.