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[Event] Swartberg100 Gran Fondo 2018


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Posted (edited)

Entered.Now for training and bike choices .I guess 2 x anything is the best option .At 100kg ,should i even consider a roadbike with 2 x 11 or go with MTB 1 x 10,1 x11 or 2 x 10 .Note .I have ridden Swartberg enough times to know that good brakes are as important as the correct gears .So that sort of cancels out the road bikes .

Edited by Blitzer
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Posted

Entered.Now for training and bike choices .I guess 2 x anything is the best option .At 100kg ,should i even consider a roadbike with 2 x 11 or go with MTB 1 x 10,1 x11 or 2 x 10 .Note .I have ridden Swartberg enough times to know that good brakes are as important as the correct gears .So that sort of cancels out the road bikes .

A compact crank with a 11 spd 32x12 or 40x12 will do the trick on a road/gravel bike if you want to be competitive.

 

Just to finish, a HT MTB with gravel tyres to drop a bit of weight.

Posted

Entered.Now for training and bike choices .I guess 2 x anything is the best option .At 100kg ,should i even consider a roadbike with 2 x 11 or go with MTB 1 x 10,1 x11 or 2 x 10 .Note .I have ridden Swartberg enough times to know that good brakes are as important as the correct gears .So that sort of cancels out the road bikes .

unless of course the road bike has some hyrdraulic discs.
Posted

I tested my race rig (Niner RLT steel with 40 mm gravel tyres) up, over and back at Breedts today.

 

Some discoveries:

 

Tubeless is a must. I had a slow leak and fitted a tube on the back. The pressures to avoid pinch flats make it a harsh ride.

 

Being in the drops is easier and gives much more control than riding on the hoods when descending. Practice.

 

Momentum is your friend. You can ride anything on the route.

 

Don't forget your gloves at home.

 

It would have been easier on a DS MTB and faster down the steep bits. 48-12 is faster than 32-11 1x on the flats

Posted

I tested my race rig (Niner RLT steel with 40 mm gravel tyres) up, over and back at Breedts today.

 

Some discoveries:

 

Tubeless is a must. I had a slow leak and fitted a tube on the back. The pressures to avoid pinch flats make it a harsh ride.

 

Being in the drops is easier and gives much more control than riding on the hoods when descending. Practice.

 

Momentum is your friend. You can ride anything on the route.

 

Don't forget your gloves at home.

 

It would have been easier on a DS MTB and faster down the steep bits. 48-12 is faster than 32-11 1x on the flats

What sort of condition is the road in?

 

I am really struggling to pick a gear...

Posted (edited)

What sort of condition is the road in?

 

I am really struggling to pick a gear...

 

 

 

Breedts is worse than I have seen it in the 7 years that I have been riding it.

Wrt the Grand fondo we must remember that there are two other, longer stretches of dirt road and as I recall the stretch from DeRust towards the caves is rougher and longer than the pass itself...

Edited by eddy
Posted

 

 

 

 

Breedts is worse than I have seen it in the 7 years that I have been riding it.

 

Wrt the Grand fondo we must remember that there are two other, longer stretches of dirt road and as I recall the stretch from DeRust towards the caves is rougher and longer than the pass itself...

 

hmmmm

 

True... 35c might be a bit uncomfortable. Trying to decide what speed I can spin vs how far I can climb and still average 20kph!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi there peeps

I’m using a one-by gravel drop bar disc bike

Currently 38T front ring and Sram 19-42 rear cassette

Tyres are Maxxis Rambler 40c

Two questions

1. Should I put on my new Schwalbe G one Allrounder 35c tyres to get more speed on the tar? But would this make gravel descents hellish?

1. Is it worth forking out for the e13 9-46 cassette?

 

Thanks for any advice!

Posted (edited)

Hi there peeps

I’m using a one-by gravel drop bar disc bike

Currently 38T front ring and Sram 19-42 rear cassette

Tyres are Maxxis Rambler 40c

Two questions

1. Should I put on my new Schwalbe G one Allrounder 35c tyres to get more speed on the tar? But would this make gravel descents hellish?

1. Is it worth forking out for the e13 9-46 cassette?

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

 

Good question and one I also faced. 

 

I did  a Breedts test ride on both my 40c Clement MSOs and also on Schwalbe 35c Sammy Slicks to see which was faster. 

 

I am definitely running the wider tyres at a softer pressure. Any benefit I may get on the tar will be offset by the punishment I will take on the rough gravel. No question for me.

 

But then again, I am old and fat and am riding a Niner RLT Steel which is rigid and HT. You may be different but I think that unless you are a racing snake going for the podium and don't plan on enjoying the day, go wider for a better ride.

 

Your second question depends on whether you can ride a 12% gradient for a few km after riding for 150 kays. I have been up on a compact road crank (I think 36 small ring) and a 12-32 cassette, but I k@ked a bit and only started at the start of the pass. It certainly is doable.

Edited by eddy
Posted

Good question and one I also faced.

 

I did a Breedts test ride on both my 40c Clement MSOs and also on Schwalbe 35c Sammy Slicks to see which was faster.

 

I am definitely running the wider tyres at a softer pressure. Any benefit I may get on the tar will be offset by the punishment I will take on the rough gravel. No question for me.

 

But then again, I am old and fat and am riding a Niner RLT Steel which is rigid and HT. You may be different but I think that unless you are a racing snake going for the podium and don't plan on enjoying the day, go wider for a better ride.

 

Your second question depends on whether you can ride a 12% gradient for a few km after riding for 150 kays. I have been up on a compact road crank (I think 36 small ring) and a 12-32 cassette, but I k@ked a bit and only started at the start of the pass. It certainly is doable.

Posted

Thanks for the help!

I think you are right.

I will try outt the 35c but probably go for the 40c

Posted

At Karoobiax last year I ran 700 x 38c Specialized Triggers on a CaadX and found them a bit harsh on corrugated sections. I’m now busy building a Cotic Escapade and plan on running 650b x 50c. Should be a much more cumfy ride. I’m also 100% sure the Cotic steel is going to be alot more forgiving than the alloy CaadX.

Posted

At Karoobiax last year I ran 700 x 38c Specialized Triggers on a CaadX and found them a bit harsh on corrugated sections. I’m now busy building a Cotic Escapade and plan on running 650b x 50c. Should be a much more cumfy ride. I’m also 100% sure the Cotic steel is going to be alot more forgiving than the alloy CaadX.

I too will be attempting the GF with an Escapade :)

Posted

At Karoobiax last year I ran 700 x 38c Specialized Triggers on a CaadX and found them a bit harsh on corrugated sections. I’m now busy building a Cotic Escapade and plan on running 650b x 50c. Should be a much more cumfy ride. I’m also 100% sure the Cotic steel is going to be alot more forgiving than the alloy CaadX.

Not sure if there will be any bad corrugated sections on the GF.  Perhaps a bit going down Swartberg.

Posted

Not sure if there will be any bad corrugated sections on the GF.  Perhaps a bit going down Swartberg.

Unless they have fixed the road between de Rust and Cango, it will be verry rutted in parts.

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