Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo

[Pieter1]

I'm as slow as they come

 

Front: 2.6 Butcher 1.4bar

Rear: 2.3 Butcher 2 bar (both grid version)

30mm internal width Rapides

 

I do use a Ice Toolz floor pump though so it might be anything haha

 

I find any lower in the back and the tyre just gives way

Gspot type trails I'll go to to 2.2 rear

 

I can now visibly see the rear tyre's casing giving in after a year (or maybe less)

 

I am (after December) AROUND 92kg with kit etc

 

And I know (I know) about the Butcher DeatGap trademark pending and as soon as the 89 daze of January have passed I will gooi the 2.6 to the back (just because and I have it now) and klap 'n Assegai Exo+ up front (local is lekker).

I honestly do not find the Butcher that bad fir my type of riding style.

 

Still quite new to all this and slowly but surely changing one thing after the other seeing what works for me and what not.

 

My latest & greatest edition to my Fuel EX was a Pike Ultimate and wow...coming from the Recon....

There are so many settings and things to still figure out.

Currently have one token in (received like that) and run 98 psi (RS recommended is 107) rebound -8 clicks (recommended -7)

So far its epic obv

Took it down Jonkers on the weekend and it just lapped everything up..hungry hungry hippo style

I have yet to change the LS and HS compression (using as received for now) epic dude at the LBS tuned it for me as we have similar weight.

 

So ja...will play around...so much to still figure out

Lekker dude. Ja all the suspension settings are doing my head in a bit. Enjoying the tinkering tho.

[Thermophage]

I meant is he accusing you of not being Greg Minaar smooth or Sean Connery smooth?

 

Or both?! 

 

If so he obviously hasn't followed you down a trail or seen your side flick fringe that even looks majestic straight after you take of the lid...... (edit.. evidence below)

 

sidefringe.jpg

Waahahaha ... somewhere between that old Ezel and now I have managed to loose one of those elbow guards

[Jewbacca]

Waahahaha ... somewhere between that old Ezel and now I have managed to loose one of those elbow guards

Meh... Losing protection is never great. You will always have 'one' just floating around staring at you making you wonder if you will ever find it's partner.

 

I say throw it away and be done.

 

I lost a knee guard and a year later I saw it in the box and spent 2 hours earching Harry Potters bedroom to no avail. I'm sure I left it in the Jonkers Car Park or at Bootleggers in tokai and it was a chew to for a happy doggo for a few days.

[Hairy]

 

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/marzocchi-bomber-cr-mtb-rear-shock-2020/rp-prod195377

Edited February 4, 2020 by Hairy

[Hairy]

[Headshot]

I've been swapping between my HT and enduro bike recently and fiddling with each of them a bit. I've lowered the fork pressure in the HT and taken out the token in my Yari to give me some hand comfort. I noticed that despite running them at lower than recommended pressures I wasn't getting close to full travel on either. I was happy to leave things as they were because on both bikes, especially the enduro, I hate the low bar height.  The fork riding higher helps with that on steeper stuff.

 

I removed the last token from my Yari and pumped it to the same pressure as before. It is much more comfortable especially off the top. If I'm heading down anything steep I simply click in a bit of compression damping. So far so good, although I made a total hash of DH 0 on Saturday. The rest of Tokai was great however so I'm blaming myself not the bike. That said I'm still looking to raise the bars a bit and possibly remove tokens/bands from the rear shock to see what that does.

 

On the HT, the front rides a bit lower as the fork is softer but its manageable and far more comfy on the hands. 

[Bos]

To all the Hubbers with Rock Shox Pike/revelation forks 2018+... does your fork travel match the exposed stanchion area? 

 

Its a long story but I bought a fork thats suppose to be 150mm and it only shows 142mm exposed stanchion area. According to all sources I have called on this far its the right airspring but I cant imagine, RockShox would make a fork that uses a larger negative air chamber, which therefore sits 10mm into its travel(in essence its negative travel) and still call it a 150mm (10mm negative spring +140 positive)..anyway. 

 

So If a 150 pike measures 140mm, I need a 160mm debonairspring. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

take it in to get serviced and inspected. May have a 140mm air spring in it, even!

[Bos]

take it in to get serviced and inspected. May have a 140mm air spring in it, even!

I've done all that. Nothing wrong internally, which Is why I ask.

[Eddy Gordo]

[Eddy Gordo]

Here's Your Single-Sided, Carbon Fiber DIY Linkage Fork

 

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/the-single-sided-carbon-fiber-diy-linkage-fork.html

 

[Hairy]

Here's Your Single-Sided, Carbon Fiber DIY Linkage Fork

 

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/the-single-sided-carbon-fiber-diy-linkage-fork.html

 

 

nearly lost my lunch 

[stefmeister]

 

An upside down thudbuster will make for a better looking linkage fork. 

[Jewbacca]

I've done all that. Nothing wrong internally, which Is why I ask.

The Pike/Yari use the same air spring but a 150mm Yari air spring will be a 140mm Pike.... I think... Writing that makes me unsure of which way the 10mm goes now

[RiverInTheRoad]

To all the Hubbers with Rock Shox Pike/revelation forks 2018+... does your fork travel match the exposed stanchion area? 

 

Its a long story but I bought a fork thats suppose to be 150mm and it only shows 142mm exposed stanchion area. According to all sources I have called on this far its the right airspring but I cant imagine, RockShox would make a fork that uses a larger negative air chamber, which therefore sits 10mm into its travel(in essence its negative travel) and still call it a 150mm (10mm negative spring +140 positive)..anyway. 

 

So If a 150 pike measures 140mm, I need a 160mm debonairspring. 

Not sure if this is applicable but I had a fork that sunk into its travel. The reason was that the positive and negative airspring did not equalize properly. There is a little air channel that is responsible for equalizing. You might also be losing air between the two chambers due to poor sealing. Check if everything in the air-spring side is completely clean. Fork Grease like SRAM butter can block these airways.

[Bos]

The Pike/Yari use the same air spring but a 150mm Yari air spring will be a 140mm Pike.... I think... Writing that makes me unsure of which way the 10mm goes now

mm.. This makes most sense.. that the shaft is a Yari 150. I opened the fork up, I'm well aware of the neg chamber sucking it in etc.. you just grab the fork by the lowers, put your foot under the crown and pull, as soon as the fork passed the dimple it will suck the blockage out. 

 

Hence my question. Since there is no indication, on the shaft itself, of what the travel is. it just says 080.. and thats it. 

 

Anyway. I might get a 160. hope it gives me 150mm. which my frame is built for. Otherwise the BB height & HA starts getting out of whack.