About Surfing.

['Dale]

A thread dedicated to one of the ancient ways of connecting with Mother Nature.

 

Edited August 24, 2020 by 'Dale

[Robbie Stewart]

There was a fun 4 - 5 foot a-frame peeling infront of Kreeftebaai this arvie around lunch-time. Some fun, offshore glass barrels and no-one on them. It is making me think of taking up surfing again after a 12 year hiatus.

[Robbie Stewart]

I still have an old 70's era Lighting Bolt shaped by Barry Kanaiapuni in my garage. That board taught me the fine art of trim. Half hour on that board, then back to my shortboard, and I was flying, gouging and carving my way through a session in no time.

Edited August 23, 2020 by Robbie Stewart

['Dale]

There was a fun 4 - 5 foot a-frame peeling infront of Kreeftebaai this arvie around lunch-time. Some fun, offshore glass barrels and no-one on them. It is making me think of taking up surfing again after a 12 year hiatus.

 

Do it, Robbie.

2020 is the year for doing determining what is really important. 

['Dale]

Edited August 24, 2020 by 'Dale

[Shebeen]

ooooh emoji in the subject title.

 

admin loves that!

 

 

surf is up in ct currently, muizenberg has had it's busiest winter fo sho

[Robbie Stewart]

Do it, Robbie.

2020 is the year for doing determining what is really important. 

 

I am taken back to the early to mid 2000's.

 

Early morning summer dawn patrols before work. I'd get up at 4:30-ish, drive down to Vic Bay and get there in time to catch first light and suit up into baggies and a vest to keep the chill at bay. Board out the bag. That fresh smell of sex wax as you get the board all sorted. The run down the point road to the top, feeling the anticipation of sensing the offshore fan my back and the smell of the ocean, all while seeing the first set of the day peel down the point. Jumping in off the point rock, the shock to the system as I duck under and wet my head for the first time. The taste of salt on my lips. Sitting in the line-up, alone if I'm lucky and picking my first wave in the next set. Turning, and paddling into the pocket. That moment of weightlessness. And then the drop into a bottom turn. That first gouge. Watching the lip teasing, teasing, teasing and finally curling over. Ducking under. Time frozen. Glass curtains. Foamballs. A light spit on my back. Sun on my face. Another bottom turn. That first carve. the second one a bit harder, fins popping and the board sliding. Bailing at the end. That smile. Paddling back to the top. Seeing some mates have joined me. The camaraderie. That last wave before heading off to work. Okay, that real last wave...tasting salt all day at work, as I did not shower the sea off as I was running late. The stoke of mind-surfing the whole session over and over again all day long.

 

I snap back to reality, and I ask myself, knowing this why did I stop.

 

Time to get my priorities sorted again.

[Duane_Bosch]

Me at Elands a few weeks ago.

[capediver]

Me at Elands a few weeks ago.

116647071_10158939208479789_7981774705016547259_o (1).jpg

And the video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evAClMU50gE&t=33s

[Jewbacca]

Scored Dunes firing yesterday... Managed to snap my rear left fin with my shoulder while getting washing machined and still managed to find some shade.

 

Banks are a bit iffy but there are some bangers rolling through on the low.

 

Swell predicted all week, so if the wind can decide what it wants to do we should be in for a pretty fun week!

[capediver]

Scored Dunes firing yesterday... Managed to snap my rear left fin with my shoulder while getting washing machined and still managed to find some shade.

 

Banks are a bit iffy but there are some bangers rolling through on the low.

 

Swell predicted all week, so if the wind can decide what it wants to do we should be in for a pretty fun week!

Niiice, Dunes is one of my favourite Cape spots...one session I had there, paddling back out, I got caught on the sandbar and a wave broke on me before I could duckdive it...broke my board in two...while I was on it!!!!...got washed in feeling very sorry for myself and then still had to walk all the way back to the car with a floppy board!

[capediver]

Some of my best memories are from surfing and just being near or on the ocean and up until lately, have been really enjoying long-boarding (...the short board revival is currently in full swing!!!) especially with my eldest and seeing her start out and then get totally bitten and now a full on surf rat! Love it, just love it and it's true what they say, once you start surfing, you'll always surf...maybe not as often and as long, but you'll always surf....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug37xN5WC7Q

[forkie]

Do kneelos count?

Me at Bruces earlier this year. 

 

[Bateleur1]

And the video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evAClMU50gE&t=33s

 

Very nice 

[forkie]

Me at Elands a few weeks ago.

116647071_10158939208479789_7981774705016547259_o (1).jpg

are you standing or kneeling?

[Jewbacca]

Niiice, Dunes is one of my favourite Cape spots...one session I had there, paddling back out, I got caught on the sandbar and a wave broke on me before I could duckdive it...broke my board in two...while I was on it!!!!...got washed in feeling very sorry for myself and then still had to walk all the way back to the car with a floppy board!

Dunes damage.jpg

There was a run of swell a few weeks ago which got the blood flowing. I saw 5 snapped boards in 2 days between the Hoek and Dunes and I'm sure plenty more that I didn't see!

 

It's my favourite wave in CT and it looks like tomorrow afternoon is going to be on again!