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MarcHD

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Couple of bearing shops in Paarden Island, must be a good few in Montague Gardens as well. Google "Bearing Man" ....

 

 

Local shop in Brackenfell even give you the option for a quality SKF, or a cheaper chinese equivalent

Thanks ... looking at Mearing Man now ... 

 

6902 = https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/All-Categories/Bearings/Ball/Deep-Groove/Single-Row/6902/p/6902

 

6802 = https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/All-Categories/Bearings/Ball/Deep-Groove/Single-Row/6802/p/6802

 

When you search though, and the 6802 being the example, you get a couple of options .... I imagine you just stick to the plain numbers?

 

https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/search/?text=6802

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Thanks ... looking at Mearing Man now ...

 

6902 = https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/All-Categories/Bearings/Ball/Deep-Groove/Single-Row/6902/p/6902

 

6802 = https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/All-Categories/Bearings/Ball/Deep-Groove/Single-Row/6802/p/6802

 

When you search though, and the 6802 being the example, you get a couple of options .... I imagine you just stick to the plain numbers?

 

https://bmgworld.net/bmg/en/ZAR/search/?text=6802

Take the sample with.

 

The basic code confirm the ID, OD, and width.

 

Types of dust seals, and weather proofing result in many options ....

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And don’t forget to ask for LLB seals

 

LLB Type Seals

 

most popular seal type, this is a Nitrile material rubber with a steel insert. Rather than the standard 2RS type seal, we go a step further by machining a groove into the inner race where the seal can rotate with better efficiency and less rolling resistance. Rather than one thick seal lip rubbing on a blunt surface, LLB type utilizes two razor thin sealing lips riding in the groove with light contact. The outside lip keeps the water and contaminates out, while the inner seal retains the grease for smooth function and long intervals between servicing.

 

LLU

 

Similar to the LLB type seal, LLU is a full contact, dual lip seal riding in a groove on the inner race. With more sealing pressure, these are ideal for pivots or headsets that continually come in contact with dirt, sweat, and dust. The increased seal pressure and 2 lips help retain the 90% grease fill we use on these bearings to better displace any moisture and continually lubricate the balls and races.

 

VV SEALS

 

Developed with the idea of rolling as fast as possible, this dual lip configuration does not make contact with the bottom of the machined groove. Since these bearings also have a high rate of grease fill, the grease migrates to the bottom of the groove where a hydromatic type seal is established between the 2 lips and the grease in the groove. This grease barrier keeps the dirt and contaminates from coming inside the bearing, while still rolling smoothly and with the least resistance of all our bearings.

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Hi Marc

 

I have been looking, but been unable to find what I think is the correct info on line.

 

The bearings on my hub are shot .... I found that my chain skipped under loads. So changed the chain, fitted a used GX der and shifter that I had lying around and thought all would be good. Shifting was awesome and then a few km into a ride and the chain skipped again under load.

 

Last night it dawned on me that it could be hub. Took the wheel off the bike and the cassette was all wobbly on the f/hub body ... slipped the f/hub (with the cassette e-13 still fitted) it was clear the beardings are toast ... teeny tiny little balls came pining out and boom .. that was the problem all along.

 

Long story short, I am looking for the bearing specs for the following please:

 

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/wheels/wheels-mtb/all-mountain/m-1900-spline that came with the 2018 AL 29'er Jeffsy https://www.yt-industries.com/en/detail/index/sArticle/1929

 

 

Hi Hairy, 

 

Nice to see so many clued up Hubbers coming to assistance! 

 

A neat trick DT Swiss added to their updated website just over a year ago, which everyone including workshops and end consumers can benefit from is the Support page.

 

Simply follow these steps for anyone wanting to know more details about their specific product and what spares are required etc...

 

1. On DT Swiss homepage click on Support

 

2. In the Support page click on Product Support found under Self Service

 

3. On newer models of wheels and components, all DT products have a QR code with numbers one can use to input your product details and immediately find further info. If your product was produced prior to this innovation, see step 4

 

4. Scroll down to where it says "Product has no ID" and use the drop down menu to select product type - in your case "Hubs"

 

5. Select the various features of your hub in the subsequent drop down menus...

- Model (360)

- Model year (2018)

- Field of application (MTB)

- Axle system (12mm Thru Axle)

- Built in dimension (148mm Boost)

- Brake interface (Disc IS (6bolt))

- Freehub system (3pawl)

 

This will yield one product found for which clicking on this product the list of spare parts are provided 

 

As you will see your hub requires the following:

 

 

Ball bearing 6902 Ø 15/28x7mm

  • DIAMETER 1 [MM] (D1)15.0
  • DIAMETER 2 [MM] (D2)28.0
  • WIDTH 1 [MM] (B1)7.0
  • BEARING QUALITYStandard
  • SHORT NAMEB.BEARING 6902 ESB/ESNB L
  • MATERIAL NUMBERHSBXXX00N2336S
  • AMOUNT2 PC

My suggestion is to try source this bearing through one of our dealers as DT uses angular contact bearings which are best suited to wheel/hub use.

 

I can gladly get in touch with your preferred LBS in order to have these bearings sent to them for you?

Edited by MarcHD
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Hi Hairy, 

 

Nice to see so many clued up Hubbers coming to assistance! 

 

A neat trick DT Swiss added to their updated website just over a year ago, which everyone including workshops and end consumers can benefit from is the Support page.

 

Simply follow these steps for anyone wanting to know more details about their specific product and what spares are required etc...

 

1. On DT Swiss homepage click on Support

 

2. In the Support page click on Product Support found under Self Service

 

3. On newer models of wheels and components, all DT products have a QR code with numbers one can use to input your product details and immediately find further info. If your product was produced prior to this innovation, see step 4

 

4. Scroll down to where it says "Product has no ID" and use the drop down menu to select product type - in your case "Hubs"

 

5. Select the various features of your hub in the subsequent drop down menus...

- Model (360)

- Model year (2018)

- Field of application (MTB)

- Axle system (12mm Thru Axle)

- Built in dimension (148mm Boost)

- Brake interface (Disc IS (6bolt))

- Freehub system (3pawl)

 

This will yield one product found for which clicking on this product the list of spare parts are provided 

 

As you will see your hub requires the following:

 

 

Ball bearing 6902 Ø 15/28x7mm

  • DIAMETER 1 [MM] (D1)15.0
  • DIAMETER 2 [MM] (D2)28.0
  • WIDTH 1 [MM] (B1)7.0
  • BEARING QUALITYStandard
  • SHORT NAMEB.BEARING 6902 ESB/ESNB L
  • MATERIAL NUMBERHSBXXX00N2336S
  • AMOUNT2 PC

My suggestion is to try source this bearing through one of our dealers as DT uses angular contact bearings which are best suited to wheel/hub use.

 

I can gladly get in touch with your preferred LBS in order to have these bearings sent to them for you?

Awesome thank you Marc!

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That is indeed handy. Found it in the manuals too. The Freehub bearings aren't listed though. Only the 2 hub bearings there.

 

@Hairy - How much mileage did you get on the hub? I'm at about 4500km and they where over due.

 

Unfortunately the Star Ratchet system gets way more love and resources online then the 3 pawl.

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That is indeed handy. Found it in the manuals too. The Freehub bearings aren't listed though. Only the 2 hub bearings there.

 

@Hairy - How much mileage did you get on the hub? I'm at about 4500km and they where over due.

 

Unfortunately the Star Ratchet system gets way more love and resources online then the 3 pawl.

 

Correct, the spares list will only be for the product you have narrowed the search down to and as freehubs almost all take the same size bearings it's usually the hub that people have and issue with.

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That is indeed handy. Found it in the manuals too. The Freehub bearings aren't listed though. Only the 2 hub bearings there.

 

@Hairy - How much mileage did you get on the hub? I'm at about 4500km and they where over due.

 

Unfortunately the Star Ratchet system gets way more love and resources online then the 3 pawl.

I bought the bike from the LBS (Demo Bike) 2019.09.21 and according to Strava have only done 219km on her ... so needless to say I am a bit disappointed.

 

Bike was on it's first chain and I replaced it now at the recommended wear mark, so she could not have done too much mileage before I got her.

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I bought the bike from the LBS (Demo Bike) 2019.09.21 and according to Strava have only done 219km on her ... so needless to say I am a bit disappointed.

 

Bike was on it's first chain and I replaced it now at the recommended wear mark, so she could not have done too much mileage before I got her.

 

Hey there,

 

That does sound quite irregular - even for the 3pawl 360/370 hub!

 

Does said LBS perhaps use things like a pressure wash maybe?

Alternatively it could just be that the bike wasn't as new as advertised? 

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Hey there,

 

That does sound quite irregular - even for the 3pawl 360/370 hub!

 

Does said LBS perhaps use things like a pressure wash maybe?

Alternatively it could just be that the bike wasn't as new as advertised? 

I would expect the pressure washer to have been the culprit ... every time the bike comes back it would be cleaned and cleaned quickly as they have a workshop to keep ticking over with little time to clean demo bikes.

 

This particular LBS I trust.

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I would expect the pressure washer to have been the culprit ... every time the bike comes back it would be cleaned and cleaned quickly as they have a workshop to keep ticking over with little time to clean demo bikes.

 

This particular LBS I trust.

 

A pressure wash, while if used correctly, can be fine to wash bikes with, there is always that potential for human error that even the best of us can succumb to from time to time (especially if rushed and under pressure) 

 

Unfortunately/fortunately the 3pawl DT hubs aren't quite as well sealed as the Ratchet models so any stray water at high pressures will likely find it's way into the hub. 

 

This is of course to bring cost down (hence fortunately) but is certainly something to keep in mind

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A pressure wash, while if used correctly, can be fine to wash bikes with, there is always that potential for human error that even the best of us can succumb to from time to time (especially if rushed and under pressure

 

Unfortunately/fortunately the 3pawl DT hubs aren't quite as well sealed as the Ratchet models so any stray water at high pressures will likely find it's way into the hub. 

 

This is of course to bring cost down (hence fortunately) but is certainly something to keep in mind

I get it .... 

 

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My opinion (based only on my own experience) is that many bike shops washing system is to blame for premature bearing failures: time is money, thus using a high pressure washer combined with too strong chemicals makes for unhappy bearings.

 

Especially around the cassette they use some chemicals that makes those cassettes sparkle like diamonds. Unfortunately those same chemicals can clean out the grease of a bearing as well...

 

Thus when my bike goes in I ensure its clean, and give clear instructions for them not to wash it, which normally means put a big freakin sticker on it!

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