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So what is a safe lock?


DR ◣◢

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Posted

I had a well known brand 8 mm plastic coated cable lock until I mislaid the key on a trip.  Took me less than 3 minutes to cut through with the file on my Leatherman.  Don't know if this is thumbs up for Leatherman or down for the cable . Will try the U type. next

Posted

Having had a bike nicked off a locked tow bar bike rack some years ago, I will never leave a bike on a rack unattended too again.

 

No lock is safe and a bike on rack just attracts attention. They'll probably steal the car if they can't get bike off.

Posted

Had my racks stolen off the car end of last year. Not sure how to secure the racks, even more ( racks on roof rails)

 

 

Try the Thule range that can be locked and keep the allen keys inside the car as opposed to in the foot section.

Posted

Try the Thule range that can be locked and keep the allen keys inside the car as opposed to in the foot section.

 

It was Thule racks that was speedily removed from my vehicle, while we were in the shop. All locked up, was removed with some scratches left on my roofrails.

Posted

I think it would be nice if the Thule clamp locked my joining the jaws together and not clamping onto the bike. 

 

Even like a metal bar that goes round the whole clamp and back onto the arm would be great. Probably find they will take the whole car though.

Posted

if it is not something that bolts onto a mounting points built into your cars gutter or similar...it can be removed with a screwdriver in seconds. These thule ones that clamp onto existing roof rails are the easiest, those they just break the pathetic cylinder lock out and slip it off.  Second easiest are the ones that supposedly comes down into the door sill between the rubber and the roof. If they don't break the lock, they just rock it so it gets enough play (damaging the car) to slip over the ridge where the rubber sits and slip it off.

the local Thule shops also don't just sell locks/keys to random people anymore apparently...you need to show conclusive proof that you are the owner of the item. Apparently a photo is not sufficient proof anymore.

 

The rack needs to bolt onto the actual car so that if they don't have a set of allen keys and/or a socket...it is not coming off quickly. If you have one of the latter, for added safty...just replace the allen bolts with torx too, and put a lock nut over the thule nut if there is exposed thread left. Don't know why thule havent done that yet, but then..most people leave them on permamnently and they aren't meant to be left on permanently imo. (PS...mine are on permanently too lol) But a determined thief will get past most things. 

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Posted

The safest lock is the one that's stronger than the one next to it.

 

One of the tools on my tool board will get through a cable lock in 10 seconds, and it fits in my pocket. A battery grinder will get through anything.

 

80% secure is as good as you'll get, for the determined and professional thief there's insurance.

Posted

a shifting/brake cable cutter will also get through even a 16mm cable. you just snip it bit by bit. it will get through in a handfull of snips.

Posted

I think it would be nice if the Thule clamp locked my joining the jaws together and not clamping onto the bike. 

 

Even like a metal bar that goes round the whole clamp and back onto the arm would be great. Probably find they will take the whole car though.

 

If you just push the turning knob on locked thule jaws in hard when you unscrew it, then it doesn't matter if it is locked it will still unscrew and loosen the jaws on your bike. No Tools needed, no suspicious activity either.

 

Well on the ±2015 era thule it was like that, doubt much has changed.

Posted

At the end of the day you can only made it as hard as possible to slow a thief down.

 

Nothing will stop them. Make sure the bike next to yours is easier to steal. 

Posted

If you just push the turning knob on locked thule jaws in hard when you unscrew it, then it doesn't matter if it is locked it will still unscrew and loosen the jaws on your bike. No Tools needed, no suspicious activity either.

 

Well on the ±2015 era thule it was like that, doubt much has changed.

 

Ja, unfortunately Thule is made in the land of milk and honey where theft is a non issue. The only reason I lock my Thule roof racks is to have peace of mind that it will not come undone while I am driving - it provides zero security. I often stop at the Engen Woolies on my way home from a ride or a coffee shop, I park where I can see my bike. If I can't see it I use a thick cable lock - again, I know it provides little in the way of security, but at least someone will have to use a tool of sorts to get it off, and hopefully the guy parked next to me is an easier target. But like I said earlier, the best lock is the one that your insurance approves.  

Posted

Some insurance companies are now specifying that you need to have a cable lock of a certain thickness, often 12mm or more.

 

I've cut 10mm cable coil locks where keys were lost with cable cutters like scissors go through paper.

 

We have also had clients who had Imbi Bike Savers on their bike racks, the thieves cut the cable locks and attempted to steal the bikes but couldn't figure out what was holding them together(the Imbi's) and after being disturbed, eventually ran and left the bikes.

Posted

Let me go check my policy

 

Some insurance companies are now specifying that you need to have a cable lock of a certain thickness, often 12mm or more.

 

I've cut 10mm cable coil locks where keys were lost with cable cutters like scissors go through paper.

 

We have also had clients who had Imbi Bike Savers on their bike racks, the thieves cut the cable locks and attempted to steal the bikes but couldn't figure out what was holding them together(the Imbi's) and after being disturbed, eventually ran and left the bikes.

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