gummibear Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 (edited) At my age and weight,aero and lightweight make no difference so I just go for comfort[emoji15][emoji1787] Edited February 12, 2021 by gummibear Mopkop, Long Wheel Base and DJuice 3
TNT1 Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 Riding in a group doesn't nullify aero gains. Unless you sitting 8th wheel all day everyday what about riding across a split maybe or just going down hill. You see how your explanation actually supports riding in a group nullifying aero gains?
Furbz Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 At my age and weight,aero and lightweight make no difference so I just go for comfort[emoji15][emoji1787] my age to! and i am early 30s comfort trumps all for me. followed by aero. then weight. gummibear and Patchelicious 2
Eldron Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 Sit down people - your minds are about to be blown..... I am not buying a road bike for summer 2021!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've ordered a gravel bike (an Ibis Hakka MX). I have a extra set of carbon wheels that I'm gonna pop some slicks on for road rides then just swap wheels depending on surface. No aero AND no weight weenie gainz. How will I even manage to stay upright with all that disadvantage???? I fully expect to get smashed by the tannies on their aero road bikes on the Friday social Rapha rides.... gummibear and splat 2
Andreas_187 Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 (edited) Aero gains trump weight gains up to a gradient of 7%. Lighter isn’t always faster.You've been drinking the Cannondale cool aid. I live on Kloof Nek Road so I know for a FACT that 2kg makes a big difference on the way up. The skinny climbing bike will also be faster than the Trek on the downhill because I will be be cruising down the other side at over 65km/h while the Trek and its 50 tooth big ring will be spinning at warp-speed-rpm trying to catch up!Slow on the way up AND the way down Edited February 12, 2021 by Andreas_187
BikeisLife Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 You've been drinking the Cannondale cool aid. I live on Kloof Nek Road so I know for a FACT that 2kg makes a big difference on the way up. The skinny climbing bike will also be faster than the Trek on the downhill because I will be be cruising down the other side at over 65km/h while the Trek and its 50 tooth big ring will be spinning at warp-speed-rpm trying to catch up!Slow on the way up AND the way downKloof Nek Strava segment - avg. of 8,1% gradient so thanks for confirming my point. Long Wheel Base 1
Andreas_187 Posted February 12, 2021 Posted February 12, 2021 (edited) Kloof Nek Strava segment - avg. of 8,1% gradient so thanks for confirming my point.You got drunk on the cool aid! LOLThey say you will save 50watts when you are cycling on a flat road at 48km/h. Can you even reach 48km/h on a flat road for any length of time without a hurricane behind you? Read Cannondales own white paper for the small print. Their 7% tipping point is based on a weight difference of only 1kg between climbing bike and aero bike so already that 7% is suddenly not the tipping point when talking about a 6.5kg bike which is 2kg lighter.Furthermore, their 7% tipping point is based on their pro riders climbing at power above 5w/kg.So now if you take a normal human being the tipping point is now only a few degrees. Buy a bike that is say 2kg lighter than the porky System Six and you will be faster up just about any hill. It's basically based on speed more than gradient. If you ride up suikerbossie at 30km/h then the aero could help you. If you ride up at less than 20km/h get a light bike.Nice looking bike though, I like it alot. Edited February 12, 2021 by Andreas_187
Patchelicious Posted February 13, 2021 Posted February 13, 2021 (edited) Its simple, both are good bikes, so buy the one you WANT most, the one that makes you want to ride it. Edited February 13, 2021 by Patchelicious ChrisF, bertusras, 'Dale and 1 other 4
Veebee Posted February 13, 2021 Posted February 13, 2021 Someone in our group has a new Madone, checked it this morning, looks really good. sam11 and Long Wheel Base 2
Furbz Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 if this happens to you when you see the bike you know you have chosen the right one - regardless of which is best. Long Wheel Base, Eldron and ChrisF 3
splat Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 Which is lighter and which one has the correct crankset. I know some of the top Treks came with a 50/34 crank which is a bit strange for a top end bike.Which one makes you want to ride the most? Cranks (rings), cassettes, bars, stems, saddles and pedals can easily be changed to suite - that shouldn't really affect the choice of the bike. Long Wheel Base 1
splat Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 (edited) You've been drinking the Cannondale cool aid.I live on Kloof Nek Road so I know for a FACT that 2kg makes a big difference on the way up. The skinny climbing bike will also be faster than the Trek on the downhill because I will be be cruising down the other side at over 65km/h while the Trek and its 50 tooth big ring will be spinning at warp-speed-rpm trying to catch up!Slow on the way up AND the way down Neither of these bikes are skinny climbers, they are both aero AF. and there isn't a 2kg weight difference between them either.Lets not get too caught up in the marketing and stick to real world practicalities like the speeds and gradients we actually ride and whether we are bunch riders or soloists. Edited February 14, 2021 by splat
Mongoose! Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 Although the Trek is the nicest looking I am not a fan of the "Isospeed" system. Just too many moving parts down there... Pity they don't make the Modone without Isospeed... https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/madone-slr-seatpost-isospeed-help/21469
Furbz Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 (edited) Although the Trek is the nicest looking I am not a fan of the "Isospeed" system. Just too many moving parts down there... Pity they don't make the Modone without Isospeed... https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/madone-slr-seatpost-isospeed-help/21469 while it can get grime in it - its rare it causes any noises. i've ridden mine for a year and a half (12500km odd) and only cleaned it out once after a numbers of wet races in a bunch over muddy roads. cleaning the isospeed is a pain the first time due to the learning curve.i've done it exactly once.but i am confident i could do it fairly quickly now.and its still silent. yes it adds weight.i race VA and keep mine on the softest setting possible and love the additional comfort. Edited February 14, 2021 by Furbz
Veebee Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 Cranks (rings), cassettes, bars, stems, saddles and pedals can easily be changed to suite - that shouldn't really affect the choice of the bike.All of those at extra costs... Would think changing the stem / saddle and maybe the bars on a new bike would be okay, but if you doing anymore then its a waste. Rather buy a frameset and build up with all the stuff you exactly want.
Andreas_187 Posted February 14, 2021 Posted February 14, 2021 there isn't a 2kg weight difference between them either.I didn't say there was a 2kg difference between these 2 bikes. Both bikes are heavier than a 20 year old bike
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