Want to go tubeless

[RJClegg]

Hi all, 

 

I've recently gotten back into MTB's and bought myself a nice beginner bike from Cycle lab that I am happy with. It's the 2021 Scott Navajo 955. Pretty pleased with the bike at the moment, though looking at doing a few upgrades to it. this years once I get more into the sport. Main focus at the moment is trails. 

 

With that being said, the very first upgrade I'd like to do, is go tubeless. I hear it's a must and after some research; it definitely seems like the way to go!

 

Having said that, I am having trouble finding out if the current tires are tubeless ready or not. Here's the specs of the bike: https://www.cyclelab.com/product/2021-scott-navajo-955-aluminium-hardtail-mountain-bike

Tyres: 

Kenda Booster#2.4 / 30TPI

 

If these tyres are not tubeless ready; which tyre would you recommend? I'd like something as wide as these and lots of grip for trials. 

 

thanks all!

[ChrisF]

Tander most tires have a note on the side "TR", i.e. Tubeless Ready ... at least it has this IF it is tubeless ready.

 

 

If not, NOT a problem !!

 

 

MANY of us ride with tubes.  Just get tubes with removable valve cores (which the local CL, aka CWC, does not stock).  I had to buy these tubes from Evobikes.  Remove the core, add 100 to 150 ml of sealant to the tube - "racers" will certainly use less, us mere mortals dont worry about the slight bit of extra weight.  Now you dont have to worry about thorns    

 

 

I did this with my commuter a few weeks ago.  First long ride I saw some "white spots" on the frame as the sealant sprayed, then SEALED the hole.    

 

 

No need to waste your money now on a tires that are TR .... RIDE what you have, and make it work 

[FirstV8]

MANY of us ride with tubes.  Just get tubes with removable valve cores (which the local CL, aka CWC, does not stock).  I had to buy these tubes from Evobikes.  Remove the core, add 100 to 150 ml of sealant to the tube - "racers" will certainly use less, us mere mortals dont worry about the slight bit of extra weight.  Now you dont have to worry about thorn QUOTE 

 

I was asked this question by a fellow cyclist who bought a entry level bike for his son and then did a Tubeless conversion which cost him R2000 .My answer was as above but then thinking about it later i was wondering what happens in the case of larger hole that needs to be plugged . Will the plug being pushed in seal the tube or will there be movement and the plug not doing its thing correctly and leak inside the tyre . 

MANY of us ride with tubes.  Just get tubes with removable valve cores (which the local CL, aka CWC, does not stock).  I had to buy these tubes from Evobikes.  Remove the core, add 100 to 150 ml of sealant to the tube - "racers" will certainly use less, us mere mortals dont worry about the slight bit of extra weight.  Now you dont have to worry about thorn

[King_Crispy]

Hi all, 

 

I've recently gotten back into MTB's and bought myself a nice beginner bike from Cycle lab that I am happy with. It's the 2021 Scott Navajo 955. Pretty pleased with the bike at the moment, though looking at doing a few upgrades to it. this years once I get more into the sport. Main focus at the moment is trails. 

 

With that being said, the very first upgrade I'd like to do, is go tubeless. I hear it's a must and after some research; it definitely seems like the way to go!

 

Having said that, I am having trouble finding out if the current tires are tubeless ready or not. Here's the specs of the bike: https://www.cyclelab.com/product/2021-scott-navajo-955-aluminium-hardtail-mountain-bike

 

Tyres: 

Kenda Booster#2.4 / 30TPI

 

If these tyres are not tubeless ready; which tyre would you recommend? I'd like something as wide as these and lots of grip for trials. 

 

thanks all!

Where  you located?

PM me and I will see if I can help you. I have sealant, you will just need to buy some rim tape for your width rim. We should be able to get it to seat on the rims

[DieselnDust]

Hi all, 

 

I've recently gotten back into MTB's and bought myself a nice beginner bike from Cycle lab that I am happy with. It's the 2021 Scott Navajo 955. Pretty pleased with the bike at the moment, though looking at doing a few upgrades to it. this years once I get more into the sport. Main focus at the moment is trails. 

 

With that being said, the very first upgrade I'd like to do, is go tubeless. I hear it's a must and after some research; it definitely seems like the way to go!

 

Having said that, I am having trouble finding out if the current tires are tubeless ready or not. Here's the specs of the bike: https://www.cyclelab.com/product/2021-scott-navajo-955-aluminium-hardtail-mountain-bike

r

Tyres: 

Kenda Booster#2.4 / 30TPI

 

If these tyres are not tubeless ready; which tyre would you recommend? I'd like something as wide as these and lots of grip for trials. 

 

thanks all!

 

 

Kenda Booster 2.4 is about the same width as others 2.2/2.25 tyres. Generally they convert to tubeless quite easily  with just 140ml of sealant per tyre. Some of the sealant will be used up to seal the tyre the rest will remain to seal punctures later.

 

Key thing to allow for a smooth conversion is to get the thickness of the tubeless sealing tape right. After one layer, try and fit the tyre. If its very loose in the centre channel then build it up with electrical insulation tape. This is thinner than the sealing tape and can be removed without removing the rim bed sealing tape when you swap tyres later on.

[100Tours]

I've ridden ghetto tubeless for years. should work just fine with almost any MTB tyre. For me this means tubeless rim tape and valves, but regular MTB tyres.

 

The biggest issue is seating your tyre. Use a rim tape that is wide enough for your rim - I like the duct-tape looking one (the stans option is sometimes too narrow for MTB rims). Then lots of soapy water and a compressor (local garage) should sort you out. 

 

It also helps to remove the valve core from the valve when seating the tyre for the first time. Then some fancy fingerwork to put the core back in. Good luck.

 

Edit - Ghetto MTB is just fine. Ghetto road is a no go area (it's bad for your teeth)

Edited May 4, 2021 by 100Tours

[Wimmas]

Even if the tyres are not Tubeless or Tubeless Ready you can still convert it to tubeless. I have done this many times with success. The only thing is the sidewalls are usually paper thin, so the first sharp rock you hit with the side wall it will tear and the tyre will be worthless.

 

All you need is rim tape (R40 per tyre from Cycle Lab), two tubeless valves and some sealant of your choice. Very easy to do.

 

Alternatively get tyre liner and tubes which are slime tubes and you are good to go, but this is the heavier option.

Edited May 3, 2021 by Wimmas

[dasilvarsa]

Maxxis Ardent 2.40 in Front

Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 Rear or Maxxis Rekon Race 2.40 Rear

+-  R1400 for Both.

 

Get a Bike Shop to do it 4 You First Time Around.

Roughly R2000 Includes Tyres Sealant Valves and Labour.

 

Get a Tubeless Repair Kit -Plugs- and Inserter and a Valve Core Remover.

Find Out What Sealant they Put in get a bottle for Top Up. (Top Up At least every 2 Months)

Get a good Big Pump for Home and a Good Small Pump to carry.

Get a Good Pressure Gauge.

[RJClegg]

Wow, thank you all for the great info and recommendations. Much appreciated! 

 

Maxxis Ardent 2.40 in Front

Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 Rear or Maxxis Rekon Race 2.40 Rear

+-  R1400 for Both.

 

Get a Bike Shop to do it 4 You First Time Around.

Roughly R2000 Includes Tyres Sealant Valves and Labour.

 

Get a Tubeless Repair Kit -Plugs- and Inserter and a Valve Core Remover.

Find Out What Sealant they Put in get a bottle for Top Up. (Top Up At least every 2 Months)

Get a good Big Pump for Home and a Good Small Pump to carry.

Get a Good Pressure Gauge.

 

Thanks for the tyre recommendation as well, I've always liked Maxxies. I am considering changing the tyres "early" since I plan on doing more trails and want more confidence in the grip of the tyres, I am not so sure the Kenda's will hold well. 

 

I will update thread once I have done the conversion. Thanks all. 

[ChrisF]

Tander I am sure you will enjoy the tubeless.

 

Top up the sealant about every 3 months.

 

You wilp note that the tire pressures will go up a bit ....

 

 

 

Until then, sealant in the tubes works perfectly.

[M L]

Maxxis Ardent 2.40 in Front

Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 Rear or Maxxis Rekon Race 2.40 Rear

+-  R1400 for Both.

 

Get a Bike Shop to do it 4 You First Time Around.

Roughly R2000 Includes Tyres Sealant Valves and Labour.

 

Get a Tubeless Repair Kit -Plugs- and Inserter and a Valve Core Remover.

Find Out What Sealant they Put in get a bottle for Top Up. (Top Up At least every 2 Months)

Get a good Big Pump for Home and a Good Small Pump to carry.

Get a Good Pressure Gauge.

No ways I'm wasting R2,000 on the LBS getting it done.

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by M L

[JJDT]

The cheapest option for a tubeless conversion is the DIY method. Set of tubeless valves max R200, Rim Tape (prefer Gorilla tape) R150, Sealant R400. Seeing that you want to upgrade the tyres the cost is already mentioned at about R1400 for the set. If a LBS need to do the conversion it will cost about R900 per wheel and you still need to buy extra sealant for your own top up purposes.

 

There is so much information available online for tubeless conversions.

[ChrisF]

No ways I'm wasting R2,000 on the LBS getting it done.

 

R 1 400 for the tires ... could save a bit here, or pay a lot more, depending on what you want.

 

R100 for rim tape

 

R100 for two valves, probably a bit more

 

R150 for sealant, enough for the install with some spare for topping up

 

Thats R 1 750 ...

 

NOT a lot left for labour .... shop is probably making more on the parts than on the labour ....

 

 

And if there are any issues the shop looses money ....

[nick_the_wheelbuilder]

The most important thing when going tubeless is to make sure your RIMS are designed for tubeless use.

If they're not, you risk the tyre becoming unseated when you do get a flat due to a large puncture and even if you're able to plug the hole, you won't be able to inflate the tyre again on the trail, meaning you'll be putting in a tube anyways. The risk of burping the tyre is also there if the rims aren't right.

 

You can tell by looking inside the rim at the shape. See pic below.

Also check out these articles:

 

https://wheelbuilder.co.za/3-ways-make-tubeless-better/ 

https://wheelbuilder.co.za/rims-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 

 

Entry-level Scott bikes don't have great wheels, and this should be your first upgrade when the time comes.

 

I make this statement not to bash the brand, but based on how many Syncros wheels come into my workshop needing new rims.

 

Based on the website spec you provided, it seems like your rims have a 20mm inner width - 25-30mm inner width is better for the 2.4" tyres you wish to run.

 

I hope this helps.

 

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by nick_the_wheelbuilder

[Mojoman]

MANY of us ride with tubes.  Just get tubes with removable valve cores (which the local CL, aka CWC, does not stock).  I had to buy these tubes from Evobikes.  Remove the core, add 100 to 150 ml of sealant to the tube - "racers" will certainly use less, us mere mortals dont worry about the slight bit of extra weight.  Now you dont have to worry about thorn QUOTE 

 

I was asked this question by a fellow cyclist who bought a entry level bike for his son and then did a Tubeless conversion which cost him R2000 .My answer was as above but then thinking about it later i was wondering what happens in the case of larger hole that needs to be plugged . Will the plug being pushed in seal the tube or will there be movement and the plug not doing its thing correctly and leak inside the tyre . 

MANY of us ride with tubes.  Just get tubes with removable valve cores (which the local CL, aka CWC, does not stock).  I had to buy these tubes from Evobikes.  Remove the core, add 100 to 150 ml of sealant to the tube - "racers" will certainly use less, us mere mortals dont worry about the slight bit of extra weight.  Now you dont have to worry about thorn

My experience with this was to still get a puncture and then have a ton of sealant all over the place. I also struggled to patch the tube with the sealant all over. 

 

I wound up buying the extra thick tubes and tyre liners instead before I went tubeless.... (big weight difference!)

 

But tubeless is the best way no doubt,

[DieselnDust]

The most important thing when going tubeless is to make sure your RIMS are designed for tubeless use.

If they're not, you risk the tyre becoming unseated when you do get a flat due to a large puncture and even if you're able to plug the hole, you won't be able to inflate the tyre again on the trail, meaning you'll be putting in a tube anyways. The risk of burping the tyre is also there if the rims aren't right.

 

You can tell by looking inside the rim at the shape. See pic below.

Also check out these articles:

 

https://wheelbuilder.co.za/3-ways-make-tubeless-better/ 

https://wheelbuilder.co.za/rims-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 

 

Entry-level Scott bikes don't have great wheels, and this should be your first upgrade when the time comes.

 

I make this statement not to bash the brand, but based on how many Syncros wheels come into my workshop needing new rims.

 

Based on the website spec you provided, it seems like your rims have a 20mm inner width - 25-30mm inner width is better for the 2.4" tyres you wish to run.

 

I hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

I got around the traditional rim shape by adding a layer of thick self adhesive door sealing foam tape. This prevented the tyre from sliding toward the centre channel in a pressure loss situation. Worked well enough to convert a fe sets of Rolf wheels to tubeless with the original Stan's kits back at Y2K