Rear shock travel

[Jewbacca]

Just now, DieselnDust said:

They’re welcome to disagree. They don’t pay for their suspension units 

Did you actually see who is disagreeing?

"That’s from Duncan Riffle, 2x U.S. National Downhill Champ, former World Cup DH competitor and SRAM MTB marketing manager. We also spoke with Manitou’s Eric Porter, who’s raced professionally in XC/DH/DS/DJ over the past 11 years; Mark Fitzsimmons, Fox Racing Shox’s race program manager and pro athlete suspension tuner; and Josh Coaplen, Cane Creek’s VP of Engineering.'

Anyway, evidently you know better than the VP of Cane Creek engineering and Fox factory racing suspension tuner.... 🤣

[Alouette3]

You are not easily going to gain more rear travel by changing the shock, maybe 10mm here and there on certain frame, but unlike a fork, extending your rear travel is often limited but the possibility of your rear wheel touching the frame or linkages interfering.

Just because your frame can take it, doesn't mean you should either, there is a lot of science that goes into leverage ratios and progression, which could result in your bike riding much worse.

If you new to full suspension, look into getting a proper suspension setup, or find someone that can teach you what everything does, so it's setup correctly and operating as its supposed to.

If you really want, maybe try lengthen the fork length a bit? 

[DieselnDust]

5 minutes ago, Jewbacca said:

Did you actually see who is disagreeing?

"That’s from Duncan Riffle, 2x U.S. National Downhill Champ, former World Cup DH competitor and SRAM MTB marketing manager. We also spoke with Manitou’s Eric Porter, who’s raced professionally in XC/DH/DS/DJ over the past 11 years; Mark Fitzsimmons, Fox Racing Shox’s race program manager and pro athlete suspension tuner; and Josh Coaplen, Cane Creek’s VP of Engineering.'

Anyway, evidently you know better than the VP of Cane Creek engineering and Fox factory racing suspension tuner.... 🤣

Like I said, they don't pay for my hardware. If they did, I'd gladly run my suspension to the bump stops. But while I'm paying I will run my suspension optimally which to me is within a mm or 2 of the full stroke length so I have enough room for the ooopsie. The last thing i want is to moer my suspension into the bump stop and bend a damper shaft.

your choice.

[Robbie Stewart]

I'd just like to understand what you need more rear travel for? I can understand fork travel, but increasing rear shock travel does not really make sense to me. I am probably missing some crucial info as I haven't really given the topic much thought before, but I'd sooner buy a better bike than try to fiddle with factory setups. I increased my tyre size on my bike, and even that has had an effect on the way the bike handles, and my pet peeve, the stones that get picked up by the knobs and flung out on the bit behind the BB where the wheel comes round again. To my mind, increasing the stroke length could potentially push the wheel against that bit of the frame causing even more rub.

[BaGearA]

Ohlins spent almost 7 months developing the white bumps stops on the first gen of ttx22m because A shock needs to use ALL its travel and on coils that means sqashing the bump stop 

 

the new ttx was launched yesterday with another new bump stop that was developed specifically to be squashed with every stroke if need be 

 

if your bike has 150 travel and you only ever use 130 then you bought the wrong bike

 

 

Bowing out here cause there are enough armchair experts here ...and Jewbacca isn't one of them

[droo]

Rear wheel travel - look up the spec of the bike, it'll be on there. Someone earlier in the thread did it for you.

Overstroking - almost universally a bad idea, although there are some frames that you can get away with it and some others where more than one model uses the same frame and the travel can be changed with a different shock, yoke or linkage. Yours is not one of them, mainly because a 190 x 51mm shock is the longest stroke you can get for that eye-to-eye length.

[DieselnDust]

1 hour ago, GM@n said:

Thanks for this advice I Will try and do so now to see howmuch rear travel the the shock realistically has. 

I didn't bottom the shock out I bought the bike under the impression that it has 120mm travel but now I want to see if it is true and was asking how to do so and if the Frame can compensate for more travel or not 

Don't hold your breath if its a bot short. Often a 112mm bike is listed as 120mm progressive. The Bike Industry has a habit of rounding up or down. What is more important than the actual number is the feel and traction you can get out of the set up

[DieselnDust]

17 minutes ago, BaGearA said:

Ohlins spent almost 7 months developing the white bumps stops on the first gen of ttx22m because A shock needs to use ALL its travel and on coils that means sqashing the bump stop 

 

the new ttx was launched yesterday with another new bump stop that was developed specifically to be squashed with every stroke if need be 

 

if your bike has 150 travel and you only ever use 130 then you bought the wrong bike

 

 

Bowing out here cause there are enough armchair experts here ...and Jewbacca isn't one of them

i 'll defer to you two mechanical engineers superior knowledge of long column compression and bending.

my humble apologies 🙄

[PhilipV]

Longer travel  isn't a panacea for bad setup or bad riding habits. Just servicing a shock that has about 50 hrs of riding on it will make it feel a lot better. 

Edited June 8, 2022 by PhilipV

[RobertWhitehead]

Hub land guru's I need to tap into your wisdom.

Here's my current situation: I currently run a 184 eye to eye on my bike but the shock is in to get sorted as it keeps on losing air without any visible damage. But, I do have a few 190 E2E shocks lying here. Now, if by any unlucky force of Murphy my shock is busted and it will take longer than a week to get it sorted will I be able to use the 190s for one race - Transbaviaans next weekend?

[droo]

16 hours ago, RobertWhitehead said:

Hub land guru's I need to tap into your wisdom.

Here's my current situation: I currently run a 184 eye to eye on my bike but the shock is in to get sorted as it keeps on losing air without any visible damage. But, I do have a few 190 E2E shocks lying here. Now, if by any unlucky force of Murphy my shock is busted and it will take longer than a week to get it sorted will I be able to use the 190s for one race - Transbaviaans next weekend?

Fit it and see if anything interferes. If it doesn't you should be fine.

As for the leaking - check the valve stem and damper shaft for cracks. Damper shaft cracks can be hard to spot, but will usually be at the first thread on the eyelet end. Also check for wear on the inside of the air can between the wiper and quad seal - this can indicate frame misalignment. Also check pivot bearings for play, and frame alignment at both ends of the stroke.

[Headshot]

Back to bottoming out. My rear shock regularly gets close to the end of its travel but never in a harsh way, i.e a metallic sound or felt through the frame. 

When I used to abuse a 100mm bike on dh tracks and such like, I used to bend the shock mount bolts but the shock itself survived unscathed.