BaGearA Posted February 23 Share 1 hour ago, LazyTrailRider said: Yeah, I love the functionality, but for some reason a new set of Code Ultimates still look nicer to me. This looks very agricultural. I'd like to rephrase "Take my money!" statement to "Maybe I'll give you my money..." 😆 I've been looking for a word to describe the calipers and dammit "agricultural " is it !😂 LazyTrailRider, DieselnDust, Spinnaroonie and 1 other 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 23 Share so if this runs on mineral oil would one still need to degas your fluid like with the "normal" SRAM brakes ... and will the bleeding process be far simpler like with a (Spit) Shimano brake set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shebeen Posted February 23 Share someone is going to have to explain the pun to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V18 Posted February 23 Share About boiling points of mineral oil vs dot fluid. Whilst I appreciate that viscosity of both these fluids may change with higher temperatures... Mtb brakes never reach close to even the boiling point of water. Think that's why that one brand than I can't think of right now made brakes using water as hydraulic fluid. Works just "fine". Yes I know water isn't friendly to rubber, metal and some polymers. But still. Boiling points don't really matter for mtb disc brakes. Unless I'm missing some physics/chemistry. Stick to non hygroscopic liquids and you'll be OK. Even better trp spyke! They use cable!😜 mazambaan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Sywurm Posted February 23 Share Can the bike industry stop bringing out new items I want but don't need!? MORNE and Hairy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shebeen Posted February 23 Share 15 minutes ago, V18 said: About boiling points of mineral oil vs dot fluid. Whilst I appreciate that viscosity of both these fluids may change with higher temperatures... Mtb brakes never reach close to even the boiling point of water. Think that's why that one brand than I can't think of right now made brakes using water as hydraulic fluid. Works just "fine". how hot do they actually get, do you have this data? All i know it's hot enough for some of them to put fins on them for cooling (or is that just to look cool?) rotors? yes. well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted February 23 Share 13 minutes ago, Shebeen said: (or is that just to look cool?) 100000% THAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V18 Posted February 23 Share The disc temps are much hotter than the hydraulic fluid level. I think tolerances of the calipers are better if you keep the temps stable. Hence dins etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted February 23 Share 3 hours ago, LazyTrailRider said: Just like all of us thinking that only 0.01% of people could justify the ZEB when it was originally released? That's still 0.01% of the SA MTB community Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted February 23 Share 31 minutes ago, Shebeen said: how hot do they actually get, do you have this data? All i know it's hot enough for some of them to put fins on them for cooling (or is that just to look cool?) rotors? yes. well I prefer real world testing like when i crashed and the hot rotor lay against my leg and left a lekker Shimano burn mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted February 23 Share 1 hour ago, V18 said: About boiling points of mineral oil vs dot fluid. Whilst I appreciate that viscosity of both these fluids may change with higher temperatures... Mtb brakes never reach close to even the boiling point of water. Think that's why that one brand than I can't think of right now made brakes using water as hydraulic fluid. Works just "fine". Yes I know water isn't friendly to rubber, metal and some polymers. But still. Boiling points don't really matter for mtb disc brakes. Unless I'm missing some physics/chemistry. Stick to non hygroscopic liquids and you'll be OK. Even better trp spyke! They use cable!😜 Oil temperature at the piston gets hot enough to oxidise the oil. Boiling matters very much! Brake callipers are better at heat management than they were 20 years ago but the amount of material is still much the same (weight hasn’t shifted much) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted February 23 Share Genuine question @DieselnDust and other techies, other than maybe downhillers, extreme riders and proper XC riders, should any of us average Joe riders concern ourselves with boiling fluids? DieselnDust and LukeLan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbybzgo Posted February 23 Share 1 hour ago, Headshot said: I prefer real world testing like when i crashed and the hot rotor lay against my leg and left a lekker Shimano burn mark. Consider that an honour brand (maybe most dedicated brand ambassadors should get one). Or a gang tat(oo) depending on how rad it looks. Your choice... Headshot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted February 23 Share 14 minutes ago, NotSoBigBen said: Genuine question @DieselnDust and other techies, other than maybe downhillers, extreme riders and proper XC riders, should any of us average Joe riders concern ourselves with boiling fluids? Boling water can hurt so stay away from that one. Mineral oil , bad for the system and oil. Flush asap but you still have some decent working service out of the brakes. Dot , very bad. Because it absorbs water and if it has already then the steam will rise to the top ( your lever ) because it has a boiling point so much lower than the dot and suddenly there will be jack out of your lever , as in nothing. The above scenarios are super hard to create , even if your brake oil is more than 10 years old. SO don't stress about it too much , regular maintenance on a modern system will give heaps of reliability and decent performance be it dot or mineral based. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted February 23 Share 1 minute ago, BaGearA said: Boling water can hurt so stay away from that one. Mineral oil , bad for the system and oil. Flush asap but you still have some decent working service out of the brakes. Dot , very bad. Because it absorbs water and if it has already then the steam will rise to the top ( your lever ) because it has a boiling point so much lower than the dot and suddenly there will be jack out of your lever , as in nothing. The above scenarios are super hard to create , even if your brake oil is more than 10 years old. SO don't stress about it too much , regular maintenance on a modern system will give heaps of reliability and decent performance be it dot or mineral based. Agreed, but only if the levers are properly made and my Guides were awful with sticky levers because of poor quality pistons (yes I know they've fixed the problem since) but the other k@k thing was how the fluid started stripping the finish off the paint on the levers despite being very careful about washing them off. Poor quality like this put me off SRAM brakes for good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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