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IMHO lots of the recommendations seems directed to bikes used for more technical riding than what Mr Mol would use it for; adding bling to the build, but also weight and not giving the ideal ride for his application.
Typical case of nice to look at, but no real difference between any other "new" bike his had.
Something longer, with less progressive geometry and travel not more than 120 front and 100mm rear would be my recommendation.
4
Something like this with a bit of 12k twill paint by Jared...and a F34 upfront, obviously also custom painted and colour matched to some classic CK parts.
4
Hi 45, we would love to give you a hand with the prototype.
You can drop me a line at millar@calculus-bikes.com
Thanks gents,
Will check out all of the above - sounds like Mercer is the clear local winner though!
I've considered doing it myself, maybe from V2.0 - want to make sure the first one is an accurate representation of my design and suspension layout to test riding characteristics.
For those asking; yes this is one of ours.
Super cool project we did with MUNGA specific details such as:
- 5x Bottle cages on the frame.
- Custom geo.
- 650b 2.8" rear wheel, and 29er front with the Lauf.
Last said feature is really interesting and worked a charm keeping the rider body in tact on the famous "sinkplaat".
I'm always fascinated by the individual ideas on what the perfect custom bike should look like.
It's like cooking good food, the ingredients and recipes are endless!
Why not let the photos do the talking!
I'll show you mine, then lets see yours...
Hi Dylan, thanks for the shout-out. Looking forward to get you riding on your CALCULUS asap.
Nice and racy geometry on this project for a gravel.
I bought myself a gravel bike and then subsequently started selling my other bikes. The only bike I have left other than the gravel bike is my MTB which I am also planning on selling. In my opinion a gravel bike is the only bike you need. When you ride on the road you are a bit slower but you have the option to hop onto the gravel shoulder which is super fun. It is definitely not as capable on the technical stuff as a MTB, but that's part of the fun. On actual gravel it's amazing, you can really put the hammer down like you do on a road bike, but you are out there somewhere rather than on the roads.
I recently contacted the guys at Calculus Bikes ( http://calculus-bikes.com/ ) who are putting a gravel frame together for me. So I will move my components over from my current gravel bike onto their custom geometry frame. I'm really excited. I had the option to make it more on the aggressive side, super relaxed or anywhere in between. I went for a fitment where we played around with my position until it felt perfect. I haven't ridden the bike yet, but I'm eager to see how it fares on bike packing and gravel touring missions.
I attached an image of their design, for interests sake.
Amazing what a bit of bungy cord can help with.
Good Principal to keep in mind is F=MxA with force being not only a function of the mass, but also acceleration. With the front wheel moving a lot more up-and down than the main triangle the bosses/strap-on keeping those bottles in place has to work a lot harder.
Hence its an option to have it on a touring bike where you are less likely to have 150km of un-interrupted sinkplaat.
Just an engineering preference IMHO.
I'm no kinematics expert, but am suprised that shifting an extra 1.5kg makes a big difference in the whole package of 70kg+.
btw, i needed to increase my water carrying capacity last year last minute.
went with a 1.5l coke bottle, and as i have a metal bottle cake it worked just fine, with a bit of bungy cord round the neck
otherwise there's the Zefal magnum, 1l http://www.zefal.com/en/bottles-sport/182-magnum.html
Hi, yes we considered the fork mounted option, but for gravel/off road its a terrible place to add weight with increase in un-sprung weight of the front wheel, poor handling and lot of unnecessary stress on the fork.
Since we know the exact measurement of the rider the side bottles are moved quite high up on the down tube and out of the way of the riders knees.
GM will have to comment on how they feel in a full-speed sprint...
i got a question on those side bottles on the down tube.....
do the legs/knees ever knock them?
did you consider fork mounted bottles like tourers do?
29er front, and a 650b plus party at the back:
2
Good Q,
Mostly to keep rider fresh and isolated from the RSA corrugations. This way we get 80% of the advantage of a dual in a HT chassis.
This bike can also take a 29er, so there is the flexibility to change to a different wheel based on the ride.
Why the mullet ?
Is it to get fatter rubber under the ar$e, or is there another reason ?
Hi All.
Its always great to see a plan come together on these projects.
Designing for the MUNGA is always fun as its such a unique race and every rider has their own recipe for what they want from their bike.
With this one we indeed pushed a new boundary for in-frame hydration with space for five bottles and the "mullet" design.
Not easy (and had to compromise some branding space ;-) but happy to do it in the name of applied sciences).
https://www.instagram.com/p/B25-ePVHydU/
Let us know if you have any more Q about the design.
Thanks for all the comments and happy riding!
4
Thanks everyone, please keep eyes open for her on the roads, and ...Gumtree!
Stolen from van.
Some feedback on the HUNTS:
Wheels have been ridden the last two weeks and have really enjoyed them. The overall ride feel is that of a high quality set of wheels. Certainly not your ordinary OEM wheel sets shipped often even with higher end bikes.
The Aero 30's are also impressively light witch also adds to their feeling of speed. The depth of 30mm and wider profile of 30c tires has also been a very good combination for high wind rides where the deeper section require constant counter steering in the gusts.
All in, very happy with the wheels thus far and looking forward to many more miles with them.
Thanks, we chatted to them about a B2B price given they only go onto our frames.
Please let me know what they cost you. They will give 21% trade discount
Hi, we (CALCULUS BIKES) have been in discussion with them to supply us with their wheels for some of our top end builds. We did lots of research on different options and they are very well ranked.
Previous comments is correct in that they dont have a local distributor as they feel they can manage/control service better themselves.
Their direct to consumer model is also well oiled with their shipping and support internationally.
As for actual riding experience we have very good reports from some UK clients running them for their winter bikes. Our first set (Hunt 30 Carbon Aero Disk) is currently in Jhb customs going to be used on a "aero" frame, so will be able to give some more feedback on riding in the next couple of weeks.
Looking forward!!
2
Were busy with a AXS build on one of our clients bikes, will be able to get some feedback on its riding performance in a couple of weeks.
Hang tight!
Has anyone had the good fortune of having the new groupset on their bike, and if so whats your feedback like?
Hi Dave. Congrats on the graduation.
Suspension performance/feel has very little to do with the orientation of the shox.
The way a good (or bad) design functions is based on all the forces, angles and ratios of the pivots, linkages, material etc.
Anyone trying to simplify it to shox orientation is trying to sell you their total lack of understanding of the topic.
Focus on the actual (riding) performance of the design as a whole, not just a single component, and most importantly, how well it matches YOUR type of riding.
Cheers
Im graduating from roadie to mtb after 30 years, but have never kept up with the techno side, so ive been looking, what is the ,if any, major diffirance in handling / feel between a mtb fitted with a vertical mount shock, or a horizontal one. .?
Just an interesting point, in the 80's motorbikes went from 2 vertical mounts to one horizontal, it really smoothed the ride, no pogo bouncing.
Hi Heinrich.
You can indeed use the same rims with new hubs.
Just make sure the spoke count is the same when getting new hubs.
And check with LBS (or online spoke length calculator) if you will need new spokes to take note of additional cost of spokes which is often overlooked.
Enjoy the new bike!!
Cheers
Hi
This might be a stupid question, but I can't find a definite answer on google or at my LBS.
My old bike is a non boost bike, my new bike is a boost bike. I would like to transfer my old rims onto my new bike.
Now the question: Will the old rims work with new boost hubs? Does the rims stay the same or do you also get boost rims?
Regards,
Heinrich
Top end ceramic bearings are pricey!
At 200 euro, I'll give it a skip
Were looking forward to a couple of C-Bear T47-DUB BB's that were going to use on some upcoming projects. They have a very good selection of standards available if your considering top-end ceramic.
Hi Bob, RushSports use to do them, but not sure if they still do Wheels MFG BB.
Best to check with LBS to give them a call.
Cheers
Friday 2-cents as follows:
If you have the same power-to-weight, core strength and pedal stroke modulation as a world champ it makes sense to blindly follow their setup.
If not, spend a R1k to test an oval to decide how it works for YOU.
5
Gravel bikes - what do you have and where did you buy it?
in Buyer’s Advice
Posted
Indeed, were still going strong with our custom Ti projects!