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Hi
At first glance I'd say it's not worth it. Geometry has come such a long way in the last few years.
The steep head angle, slackish seat tube angle, and the 27.2mm seat post diameter would put me off straightaway. Without doing more research I'm assuming that it's non boost, straight headtube and the reach is based around a 70/80mm stem.
I think there are better options for a project to build up in 2023.
2
I also buy, sell and trade across different platforms and in my sequence of events is usually:
Sale terms are agreed.
Payment is made and POP received.
Goods are wrapped in anticipation of funds clearing (assumes an EFT).
Goods are posted same day funds clear. The 2 days it usually takes for the funds to clear should be ample time to plan a trip to Postnet.
A pic of the waybill and of the goods being wrapped are sent to the customer.
Sticking to this, I have never had any issues.
If I want an instant transfer then I too have to be prepared to reciprocate and have my **** together ready to go.
If I'm buying, then I expect the same vmg in shipping as there was in paying.
And I thought the first question would be 'What does it weigh?'.
6 hours ago, Robbie Stewart said:BREAKING NEWS!
THE CULPRIT DESTROYING TRAILS DOING CUTTIES HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED. ALL HELL TO BREAK LOOSE.
I broke my collarbone just watching.
5
I had to make the call about a year ago. I think it has more to do with where you are in the arc of your cycling life. I decided I'm not chasing numbers or positions anymore, but I still wanted to ride hard up and down. I wasn't doing any more Trans Karoo's or 24 Hrs, and I wasn't interested in losing those last 3 kilos of good living weight either. I also wanted a bike that would handle pretty much any trip I chose to take. I landed up with a Niner RIP9 RDO, which for me has a perfect blend of travel 150/150 and not too slack geometry 66.5 HA and 75 SA which helps to offset the longer travel when climbing. The frame is light enough to build up to a decent finished weight, mine is just on 12kg with an XX1 build. Yes, the front end wanders a little on the really steep stuff, but the trade off is the rear never, ever loses traction and it will clear techy, nasty climbs that my hardtail would never. Yes, I do feel the weight difference from my 9 kilo hardtail, but that really only matters on long smoother climbs. The trade off there is total composure on the descents, this thing just holds its line. I'm a bit slower on the long climbs, a bit faster on any descent and about the same everywhere else, but I'm having way more fun and I can do more laps because I'm not getting beaten up by my 'race' bike.
My 2c on the tyre difference - The wider tyres with bigger volume do tend to understeer at slower speeds or if they're not leant over like they should be. I also believe that most Trail riders are over tyred for most local conditions and there is no need at all to be dragging around 1.2 kilo tyres. Most of our rides and conditions just don't warrant it. For dry conditions I've settled on: Front - Schwalbe Hans Dampf Evo Supertrail Soft. Rear - Schwalbe Rock Razor Supertrail Medium. For me these are the sweet spot of weight, rolling speed, grip and puncture protection.
6
Bulls did try the SA Market about 10 years ago.
The problem mainly was, apart from the usual stock/size/model issues, nobody other than from the avid Epic follower had ever heard of them.
They were really great bikes, but a very hard sell.
Hi Dan
As a one time bike shop owner, maybe I can offer a little advice?
1. Location - Keep your overheads as low as possible. Foot traffic is way overrated and is in fact a liability not an advantage. Reputation is worth much more than visibility.
2. Parts - It is going to be a challenge to source parts as the large importers are fully subscribed and will not deal with so called 'garage' businesses. Finding a sympathetic LBS is great if you can, but most are fighting for their own survival and won't welcome the competition, also no matter how sympathetic they are they will still not sell on to you at cost. That means you will have to reduce your own profit to be cost competitive. You will have to essentially buy your market share initially. Importing grey or parallel parts can save cash, but exposes you to warranty issues.
3. USP - Why will people use you and not someone else? Having somebody's business trust is an honour and an obligation, not a right. Determine from the start what makes you better than 'the other guy' and then stick to that no matter what.
4. Consistency vs honest mistakes - You can do 25 amazing services/fixes/can you justs with very little reward, but 1 cock up can be a disaster and everybody gets to know about it. Fix honest mistakes quickly and with humility. If you are making dishonest mistakes then you are F*&%'d anyway.
I hope this helps a bit. It is not impossible, but like anything worthwhile takes dedication and perseverance.
Please feel free to DM me if there's any other questions you might have.
All the best.
DMR Deathgrips are the shizzle.
On 10/23/2021 at 2:36 AM, Cois said:Thanks BigDL. Means the world to me. As long as I can touch someone in any way it gladdens my heart. If I can touch lives in any way it is great. We are missing out so much every day. Even with my family being torn both geographically and emotionally it would be great to be used as an example of what not to do. I spoke to one of the nurses yesterday. She had questions on how I knew something was wrong. So I spoke to her about my journey. And it all comes down to getting to a doctor before it is too late. And mending things before it is too late.
Let me check with Reinet in the morning on what would be the best and what will work out with the least cost to you. I know the Investec account was created with the least amount of fees, but we can work a plan. I hate paying fees on anything so let's see what will work the best.
She works with international transfers every day and would know what the costs will be for funds being transferred. I know a bit of computers but the financial world and fees are a mystery to me most of the time.
Backabuddy is a great platform, and they need to pay staff and rent and all the things going with a business. But in the end, they become expensive.
So I will get back to you ASAP on what will work the cheapest.
Guys, I don't comment very often on this thread, it is sometimes just too hard. Cois and I do chat occasionally, less recently, and I'm sorry about that. He knows me and my story.
What I have highlighted above is critical. I waited too long and then didn't initially get the right attention. I eventually got out the other side. But only after an unnecessarily long and harrowing fight. I was one of the lucky ones, but I'll carry the physical and mental consequences for the rest of my life.
I can't shout it loud enough: Get checked. Get the right treatment. Fight like hell. Live a good life everyday, because it can change faster than you can imagine.
Cois, you are a true warrior and a genuine human being.
What is your rim width?
I see the Rekon Race is now available in WT.
I haven't run the WT, but the regular Rekon Race 2.4 on my 34mm wide rim puffed up to an honest 2.6 without flattening out too much.
You can run super low pressure too if that is your thing.
And they roll really fast.
Clearly he hit the water bottle that some idiot discarded without thinking.
I can't remember who it was (Merckx? Hinault?) said:
"Whenever somebody tells me they just won a race, my question is 'Who came second?'"
I'm running 34mm internal width rims on my 5" travel trail bike, my tyres vary from 2.35 to 2.6 depending on my own mood more than anything... I can certainly feel the difference in the different tyre widths and the difference between running same tyres on a narrower rim. What is interesting is that there is virtually no difference in my segment times up or downhill, or in my ride average speeds...
Here's a slightly more rigorous test:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/rim-widths-comparison-test-mountain-bike.html
And it would be awesome if after one has sold something, mark it as sold or take it off.
Looking fwd to hear how you found it. Where did you get the tyre and how much?
Sorry - It is a Martello I put on the front...
For what it's worth it feel less floaty than the DHR2 (that was a 2.6 and the Martello is a 2.35) and it handles transitions in angle more predictably. The DHR2 kind of found its own line a lot where the Martello goes where you tell it too. It's a little lighter. What it does not have which the DHR2 does, is that bombproof feeling of just shrugging everything off and keeping on rolling.
I'm really enjoying how capable this is, up and down.
Niner RIP9 RDO 150mm front and back.
6
Thanks to All who've replied, I really appreciate it.
Looks like I've got some exploring to do.
From a personal security point of view, I ride almost exclusively alone.
I don't worry at all in Tokai, and just keep wits about on TM. How are the Stellies trails?
I know bike theft is an issue there, but don't read much about bad encounters on the trails.
Ditch the gels for Golden Syrup to fuel long rides ?
in Training, Health & Nutrition
Posted
After years of trial & error (lots and lots of error) I found what works for me is:
Fuel from real food (baby spuds, biltong, bananas [but watch the potassium intake], cheese rolls, fig biscuits). On proper long rides (5 hours and up) I find that you cant really eat too much, so go mad.
Hydration and electrolyte replacement from water with a bit of salt or half a tab of Powerbar electrolyte/High5 Zero. 600ml per hour, increase intake as needed.
I'm no expert at all, but thats what I landed on after 30 years of riding and trying most things.