MTB Tyre Choices

[NGUTF]

The new TL-easy works very well. Can almost mount it by hand. fitted it to a mavic crossmax XL and it pumped up using my normal floor pump. I actually forgot to reach for the high volume pump i normally use to seat tubeless tyres, but the normal one worked just fine. TL_easy = :thumbup:

 

 

No. It's called TLR or Tubeless ready because it doesn't conform to the full UST specification. TLR, no matter which manufacturer, means only the bead of the tyre complies with the UST standard. The sidewalls and topcaps do not, necessitating the use of sealant. With UST, sealant is not required by definition.

 

So can anyone recommend true UST, TUBLESS proper, NO LIQUID etc etc needed XC tyres??? There just never seems to be enough clarity on this stuff, especially on manufacturer websites.   

Edited March 2, 2015 by AngelourKing

[Capricorn]

So can anyone recommend true UST, TUBLESS proper, NO LIQUID etc etc needed XC tyres??? There just never seems to be enough clarity on this stuff, especially on manufacturer websites.   

the mass of fully UST compliant tyres alone excludes any weightweenie activities. Sorry.

the use of sealant should be acceptable even in the weight weenie category. if someone's managed to make  a light but fully UST compliant tyre, i dont know of it. It's almost a contradiction in terms.

[NGUTF]

the mass of fully UST compliant tyres alone excludes any weightweenie activities. Sorry.

the use of sealant should be acceptable even in the weight weenie category. if someone's managed to make  a light but fully UST compliant tyre, i dont know of it. It's almost a contradiction in terms.

Luckily im not a wheightweenie, if you see my gut you''l understand why. Im looking for a UST tyre that doesn't require a degree to fit onto wide lightning rims in the near future. Puncture sealant is a must for me but i hate having to send my rim in each time I need a new tyre to get the tubeless kit sorted. 

[Cheese]

Hi,

 

I have Merida Big Nine with the normal Jalco Big Nine rims, I bought a set of Maxxis Crossmark LUST Tyrs but now worried if it will work on the rims since I do not currently have tubeless.

 

Bought them as they tyres on at moment is crossmark .

[FHB]

Hi guys.

 

I am a big guy (130kg's, mostly muscle, played prop).

 

Which tyre would you suggest for rear (have nobby nic in front) 29er bike

 

Crossmark or saguaro?

 

Also, did vitorria buy over Geax? See that they are the same, but the one is cheaper than the other make.

 

Thanks

[Cookie88]

Hi Guys, I have read through the last couple of threads but there doesn't seem to be a consensus. I currently running tubeless on my Epic with S-Works Fast Track 2.0" Tubeless Ready Tyres which have been okay.

 

I had Crossmarks on my old BMC which were bullet proof but from this thread the consensus seems to suffer in wet and muddy conditions.

 

I ride predominantly in the Cape, so Tokai, Jonkers (when they are not burning  ) and Durbanville. Would it be worth swapping out the S-Works tyres, and if so what combination would be best? 

[Uni]

Why do ppl ride with different back /front tyres?

[Odinson]

Why do ppl ride with different back /front tyres?

 

Personal preference, really. Most prefer a faster rolling tyre at the back, with a more grippy tyre up front. There are other considerations too. Some may enjoy the grip of a certain tyre, but feel that its sidewall is too weak to use it at the rear. 

[JXV]

Why do ppl ride with different back /front tyres?

For trail riding and singletracking - Rear tyre carries more of the rider's weight so it deforms more when riding normally. A faster rolling tyre at the rear is quite popular. Front tyre takes more steering and braking forces so a more grippy tyre tends to be preferred up front.

 

For XC racing, depending on the course, it may pay off to fit fast rolling tyres with smaller tread blocks both front and rear.

[JXV]

Why do ppl ride with different back /front tyres?

For trail riding and singletracking - Rear tyre carries more of the rider's weight so it deforms more when riding normally. A faster rolling tyre at the rear is quite popular. Front tyre takes more steering and braking forces so a more grippy tyre tends to be preferred up front.

 

For XC racing, depending on the course, it may pay off to fit fast rolling tyres with smaller tread blocks both front and rear.

[Skylark]

Luckily im not a wheightweenie, if you see my gut you''l understand why. Im looking for a UST tyre that doesn't require a degree to fit onto wide lightning rims in the near future. Puncture sealant is a must for me but i hate having to send my rim in each time I need a new tyre to get the tubeless kit sorted.

Maybe adjust your technique a little(some people try lift too much bead over at once and don't position the bead that's allready over into the middle of the rim, also use soap and leave the tyre in the sun for an hr or 2 before attempting to mount)and get a Pedros DH tyre lever, polished chrome metal tyre lever with a solid handle , the baus of tyre levers. You can order them online for R200.

 

I don't see the point of UST, tube less ready with strong side walls is the winner. UST doesn't mean you'll never get a puncture so you'd be foolish not to run them with sealant anyway, unless you want to be fiddling at the side of the trails checking for the hole and pumping the tyre up continuously as the air leaks whilst you do so and then needing to plug it. Never mind that the plug you put in may become a slow puncture of its own after the fact.

Edited June 22, 2015 by Skylark

[B1cyk1ll3r]

So this is all very new to me, I have no experience whatsoever with MTB tubeless setup's. Recently bought a bike and it became apparent that at some point in the near future i am going to need to replace my tyres. The bike came with Schwalbe Hans Dampf up front and at the back Onza Ibex FR. I have no clue what to look for when replacing, should i stick with the same as they are currently? And when i do would it be better for me to take it to my LBS to fit the tyres? Im not even sure if they need replacing right away... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Ibex would be a good option for the front as well. Definitely more grippy than the Hans.

 

That, or the Magic Mary (if you can find one)

[marko35s]

So this is all very new to me, I have no experience whatsoever with MTB tubeless setup's. Recently bought a bike and it became apparent that at some point in the near future i am going to need to replace my tyres. The bike came with Schwalbe Hans Dampf up front and at the back Onza Ibex FR. I have no clue what to look for when replacing, should i stick with the same as they are currently? And when i do would it be better for me to take it to my LBS to fit the tyres? Im not even sure if they need replacing right away...

 

IMG_0094.JPG

Is that the current state of the tyres in the photo?

If it is they look okay for now.

If you need to change (assuming you are trail riding rather than hitting lots of gravel) the New Nobby Nic from Schwalbe are popular right now.

Edited to remove some mad auto corrections...

Edited July 28, 2015 by marko35s

[B1cyk1ll3r]

https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/110918-mtb-tyre-choices/page-23?do=findComment&comment=2676713

 

pretty much so, ive done three rides since the photo. Just thinking ahead at this point.

[PVT_RYAN]

Not sure if i can pick up from here, but it is along the same line/ topic of tyre choices.
So i am a big guy, just about 110kg currently and have a Scott hardtail, and with the Kenda tyres i have on my 26 the back tyre seems to squish and almost looks flat when i ride, strangely enough when i ride on my brothers with his sportsmans warehouse tyres, nothing!!!
Should i over inflate, get Conti's or Maxxis, beside the shedding of kilos, obviously. I have been back in the saddle now for 2 months and have lost 11 kg already, and amzed myself by doing a 10km ride the weekend so......getting there. the whole tyre thing is just freaking me out as i have seen larger guys riding and their tyres are "normal". can anyone shed some light?