NotSoBigBen Posted October 29, 2013 Share Ok, so please help me out here: I have a set of mavic cross ride wheels with Continental Mountain Kings tyres. Can I go tubeless and with what setup? Can I just tape the spoke holes, pop in a valve and slime and inflate? Or would I need different tyres or perhaps a rubber strip between the rim and tyre (I've heard some people call this a rim strip) or totally new wheels? What do the experts say? THAT! Personally I don't advocate the insulation tape (ja ja DirtRider I know .... ) solution but rather use either the proper Stans type tape or at least 'gorilla' tape ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy Posted October 29, 2013 Share Ok, so please help me out here: I have a set of mavic cross ride wheels with Continental Mountain Kings tyres. Can I just tape the spoke holes, pop in a valve and slime and inflate? yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l4y3rcake Posted October 29, 2013 Share THAT! Personally I don't advocate the insulation tape (ja ja DirtRider I know .... ) solution but rather use either the proper Stans type tape or at least 'gorilla' tape ..... +1 on the gorilla tape. Did my wheels on friday. Front Bontrager X-Mud TLR and back Bontrager XR2 Team issue TLR on Alex rims XC Comp. Butchered some toobs for the valves and got the tyres seated by going to the garage. I tried seating it with my Park Tool floor pump but that seemed impossible(for me at least). Buy a big bottle of stans(you're going to use it agian) some gorilla tape and valves R300. Spend some time on YouTube. Try it out with your current setup and if it works you saved R1200. If it doesn't work get some new tyres and try again. Doing it yourself is a learning curve and it will only benefit you in the long run. The more you know about fixing your own sh*t the less randelas you end up spending at your LBS for stupid things like REPLACING TYRES. DIY eddy, NotSoBigBen, Greg29 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Sywurm Posted October 29, 2013 Share I use tubeless and in the last year, I did not get a flat tire. I ride off road, through the veld, on the road and even through some bushes (when the road gets to a dead end). The only downside to tubeless is the resealing every 3 or so months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King_Crispy Posted October 29, 2013 Share +1 on the gorilla tape. Did my wheels on friday. Front Bontrager X-Mud TLR and back Bontrager XR2 Team issue TLR on Alex rims XC Comp. Butchered some toobs for the valves and got the tyres seated by going to the garage. I tried seating it with my Park Tool floor pump but that seemed impossible(for me at least). Buy a big bottle of stans(you're going to use it agian) some gorilla tape and valves R300. Spend some time on YouTube. Try it out with your current setup and if it works you saved R1200. If it doesn't work get some new tyres and try again. Doing it yourself is a learning curve and it will only benefit you in the long run. The more you know about fixing your own sh*t the less randelas you end up spending at your LBS for stupid things like REPLACING TYRES. DIYWhat he said. Learn to do the simple stuff yourself. Saved R1200 on this exercise and you get to see how the stuff fits together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted October 29, 2013 Share As i said already, the ability of the tyre to inflate easily with a floor pump seems to be related to how well the tyre seals in the middle of the rim before inflation. Detergent and water also help the seal. This is why the proprietary rim strips usually work better. No reason why you cant build up the centre of the rim using several layers of adhesive tape though. My tyres pump up as if they have a tube in them and would probably also inflate with my tiny lezyne hand pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoLefty!! Posted October 29, 2013 Share 2013 is my 13th year on Tubeless. In this time I've had perhaps two punctures that did not seal due the whole being too large; A nail through the side wall and out the tread and a falied carcass at the bead have been the only stop me in my tracks failures. I' started out with Stans ghetto conversion circa 2000. This involved sealing up the rim bed withl layers of fibre tape and using a valve cut from the previously used tube. It worked a treat but tyres reliability was a problem. Hutchinsons natural rubber Python proved the most reliable. then afte about 6 months of emailing and feedback and discusson on MTBR with the few early adopters, Stan introduced the rim strip. this made fitting the tyre easier and simplified the conversion drastically. the fibre tape was still needed as it not only seal the rim bed but also is capable of holding the pressure (insulation tape is not). the Rim strip had a relatively thick crosssection and did not have a thicker section at the outside. the next step in the evolution was the rim strip with the thinner centre section. this allowed for a bit more flexibility of the valvestem and rimstrip vulcanised joint. zthe previosu rim strips were failing after about a year or so due to the ammonia in the sealant embrittling the join between valve stem and rim strip. he next evolution was a more supple natural rubber rim strip and the valve stems. at thi stage Stan made removable valve stems available for rims that did not have as deep a spoke bed and therefore did not require the rim strip to add meat. While all this was going on I bought into USt with the Mavic UST XC M819 rims and Shimano M960 XTR. very relaible system, and I've never had a tyre roll off the UST rims. Up until this point I was using Stans conversion on Mavic X517 rms and Rolf Vector MTB wheels. These worked well because those rims had a decent lips to retain the tyre. Over this period I discovered that with no tubelss tyres, the bead diameter would vary significantly inthat one tyre would slip on easily while a similar tyre would be a dog to fit. this also infleunced the reliability. In 2004 I fitte Stans NoTubes rims rode those in a 8 day MTb stage race. they held up well for a very light weight product. NO probelsm with the UST tyres fitted except I demolised the tread in 8 days. Kenda If I recall but forget the name. I then opted for Mavic Cross amx and finally settled on Shimano's M975 Xtr wheelset which I still have to this day. None of my Stan's rims, Mavic USt and Non Ust rims or Shimano wheels have given me a days problem with tyre sealing when using a tubeless reay or UST tyres. with conventional tyres results vary and I don;t hink giving up relaibility for the sake of a few grams is worth it. IME, Tubeless ready and UST tyres work best UST or tubeless rims retain the tyre more reliably and seal more reliably since theres less opportuity for a leak to occur. With UST wheel the only leak is the tyre itself or the valve stem seal. With non USt and conversions you have to look for leaks everywhere. UST or other reputable tubeless rims also require less sealant to maintain a seal and the tubeless status. Other systems require up to 200ml of sealant which negates the weight saving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr X Posted October 29, 2013 Share No need for the strips to be replaced.Just don't use them. Buy a normal valve Then the recommendation of Stans is wrong as well as two very good LBS`s. I clearly stated this to be a guideline not gospel. Go and convert al cheapo non-UST non-TR rims to tubeless without rim strip at your own peril. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted October 29, 2013 Share hahahaha..... Look at all the bickering! How quickly we all turn into a bunch of know all women. Dude, seriously, how ever you prefer to do it, it will be better than tubes. The 'burping' and the resealing are not a big issue. I would grab a valve adaptor for 20 ZAR, I put on a normal valve (no rim strip), insert sealant, finish tire levering the bead over the rim wall..... go to the nearest garage and BOOM! Tubeless tires. For perhaps 170 zar!!!!! (serious ghetto by cutting the valves out of your tubes and using a small rubber piece and tube patch glue instead of forking out for valves which are surprisingly expensive!) If you come to Cape Town before you do this, I will do it for you for 150 zar in my workshop in about 14 minutes.... Capricorn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acre Posted October 29, 2013 Share This rusty ol nail went through the tread and out the side during a ride one day. A second or two of escaping air then silence as Stans did it's job. Did two more rides like this then decided to pull it out with a pliers, once again Stans did it's good work allowing me to ride this tyre until it was worn out. Whichever route/method you choose, you will definitely appreciate it. Edited October 29, 2013 by twinpiston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King_Crispy Posted October 29, 2013 Share Then the recommendation of Stans is wrong as well as two very good LBS`s. I clearly stated this to be a guideline not gospel. Go and convert al cheapo non-UST non-TR rims to tubeless without rim strip at your own peril.Stans are wanting the individual to buy into their marketing and pay for all their branded products. Your lbs wants you to spend the dosh at his hovel. Let the op be adventurous and do the conversion himself.Just coz he never did it your way doesn't make it wrong Capricorn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoLefty!! Posted October 29, 2013 Share This rusty ol nail went through the tread and out the side during a ride one day. A second or two of escaping air then silence as Stans did it's job. Did two more rides like this then decided to pull it out with a pliers, once again Stans did it's good work allowing me to ride this tyre until it was worn out. Whichever route/method you choose, you will definitely appreciate it. ah but which tyre is that? Try that with a Kenda or Spech and it will rip itself to pieces as the nails tries to destroy your seat stays and the tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l4y3rcake Posted October 30, 2013 Share ..... go to the nearest garage and BOOM! Don't joke. That happened to me. Tyre in the face...luckily it just climbed of the rim and didn't pop. One of the petrol attendants thought the place was being robbed and could have given Usain Bolt a run for his money. Funniest sh*t ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted October 30, 2013 Share Don't joke. That happened to me. Tyre in the face...luckily it just climbed of the rim and didn't pop. One of the petrol attendants thought the place was being robbed and could have given Usain Bolt a run for his money. Funniest sh*t ever. hahaha.... I know that sound! A few years ago I did the same thing. Got the fright of my life and had to go home and change my undies.. Since then I have got it pretty down seeing as my compressor is and has been playing up if it doesnt have a spray nozzle on the end.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cois Posted November 13, 2013 Share Got a 2nd hand set of DB wheels last week. Went out and ot a Tubeless valve. Installed last night with rim tape from Stans only. The one tire is giving a bit of trouble. Air leaking out the valve, think it is sorted. Will check if I get home. The other is perfect. Will test this setup for now and report back soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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