Training on standard cranks, racing Jock on compact

[Spirog]

I ride 175mm standard 52/39 Ultegra cranks. I'm debating whether I should change to Compact 172.5mm 50/34 cranks for the Jock Classique. I live and ride in Jo'burg, so don't require Compact cranks all year round.

 

I rode the Maluti Double 90 on my standard setup and really died on the major hills even though I ran a 28 tooth cassette. I rode the Jock Classique last year and managed the hills, but would like to improve my time this year.

 

So, two questions:

1. Is it okay to train on Standard cranks and then change cranks just for race day?

2. Will the Compact cranks make a significant difference to my climbing ability on Jock?

[Patchelicious]

I ride 175mm standard 52/39 Ultegra cranks. I'm debating whether I should change to Compact 172.5mm 50/34 cranks for the Jock Classique. I live and ride in Jo'burg, so don't require Compact cranks all year round.

 

I rode the Maluti Double 90 on my standard setup and really died on the major hills even though I ran a 28 tooth cassette. I rode the Jock Classique last year and managed the hills, but would like to improve my time this year.

 

So, two questions:

1. Is it okay to train on Standard cranks and then change cranks just for race day?

2. Will the Compact cranks make a significant difference to my climbing ability on Jock?

Hi,

 

I have gone through this exact thing.

 

I run 53/39 11/28 as standard, and to be honest the 28 was always enough for any of the JHB races.

 

I put on some 50/34 chainings for an upcoming Giro trip, and tested them at MD90. They did come in handy with tired legs on the last two climbs, but would have managed without them. I did run out of gears on a few occassions on the faster down slopes. (you spin out at like 60/65)

 

Having said that, personally I would not run them at the Jock 1 Day. The climbs there are not steep enough. However that is me and my personal choice.

 

To give you accurate advice, it would make sense to ask how strong you feel and what your race strategy is. Eg: If you are going to give the race a good go, it means you would need to stay with the pack. If the pack goes up Spits or LongTom at a pace that means you are pedalling at a high cadence on the 39 - 28 then you would never actually use the full gears with a compact, so no point.

 

If you are doing it for fun, and want to enjoy it more, then swop to compacts I say.

[Brickleberry]

Your 52/39 is slightly easier than an actual standard 53/39 , but I have recently changed from a 53/39 to a 50/34 also in the JHB area and it has made a massive difference to my riding in general , not just on hills. It's stops the big climbs taking it out of your legs so you can get back to your rhythm quickly after a hard effort. It has made me faster generally and I'm even winning some sprints with mates that I couldn't before.best change I have ever made

[jcza]

Hi,

 

I have gone through this exact thing.

 

I run 53/39 11/28 as standard, and to be honest the 28 was always enough for any of the JHB races.

 

I put on some 50/34 chainings for an upcoming Giro trip, and tested them at MD90. They did come in handy with tired legs on the last two climbs, but would have managed without them. I did run out of gears on a few occassions on the faster down slopes. (you spin out at like 60/65)

 

Having said that, personally I would not run them at the Jock 1 Day. The climbs there are not steep enough. However that is me and my personal choice.

 

To give you accurate advice, it would make sense to ask how strong you feel and what your race strategy is. Eg: If you are going to give the race a good go, it means you would need to stay with the pack. If the pack goes up Spits or LongTom at a pace that means you are pedalling at a high cadence on the 39 - 28 then you would never actually use the full gears with a compact, so no point.

 

If you are doing it for fun, and want to enjoy it more, then swop to compacts I say.

 

Agree with Patch. You will get left behind on the fast sections once you go over the top of Spitskop and Long Tom back to Nelspruit. 

[Long Wheel Base]

If your plan is to ride the entire jock in your big blade then yes sure go for compact! But if not I would say rule number 5 is your buddy  . When I got my new road bike 2 years back it came with compact, I got rid of that on the way out of the shop! Only thing I change is my cluster. Have a 28-11 for hilly races and 25-11 for flat races(this gets used more often). I did maluti this last weekend and yes golden gate was tough but would not go compact for the short amount of time you spend climbing. Trust me I don't think there was anyone that finds golden gate easy so don't worry that you struggled.

If you are going top ride PROPER hills in Europe then only consider it.

[Sepia]

Any compact cranks available then?

PM if available.

[David Marshall]

I've ridden a compact for the last few years on my racing bike and trained on my standard crank.  Personally I have never missed the standard and would not dream of changing back.  The 50/11 combo has not let me down on the descents (maybe 'cos I'm a good wheel sucker!)  In fact I made up time during the Panorama on those descents - but that was more to do with the wheels than crank.  The compact gives you more options on the climbs and you spend considerable time climbing in the Jock. For me it is the 50/34 and 25/11 combo.

 

It really depends on the individual, your fitness, riding style and personal choice.

[Wannabe]

I'll never go back to Standard Crankset again. Ride my 50/34 with 11-25, and I get up all the climbs I have attempted so far.

[HappyMartin]

I ride compact all the time with a 11 25 at the back. For Panorama where a lot of the racing is on the Jock route I change to a 12 27 at the back. Even with the compact as long as I have an 11 at the back I am able to stay with the guys on the fast sections and spinning out is not a big issue. In fact I usually go down hill at or near the front of my group. I am comfortable at a high cadence though and hit 170 on the Tacx.

 

If the question is should you train on the compact. I would. When I first changed to compact I tended to still grind on climbs and didn't take advantage of the easier gears. I had to learn to do that and thats where training on the compact comes into it.

 

Actually it all depends on your riding style, strengths and weaknesses. The above is merely my experience.

['Dale]

If you're not a natural climber / puncher and not that fit, go for compact

 

Spinning out at high speeds isn't easy with compact crank

 

(I've never done Jock, based in WC)

[eddy]

No comment on the differing crank lengths ?

 

What would the effect of 175 vs 172.5 on his different cranks be ?

[Jay_B]

I rode Jock classique last year for first time with compact and 3/4 way up Longtom i was glad i had them and also had 32 on the back that came standard on my bike. I did however get dropped going down spitzkop into Sabie because i ran out of gears.

 

This year been riding with mid-compact and will keep with it for jock, i personally prefer spinning up climbs rather than grinding and with the mid-compact i can still keep my cadence up in the 90s comfortably for long climbing efforts.

 

As for crank length thats got more to do with your body measurements than anything else... 

 

Start training now with what ever you going to race with at jock, you wont help yourself at all if you arrive in Nelspruit not having spent time with a new crank if you decide to change.

[Frosty]

The OP doesn't state which gruppo he is using...

 

For the OP, double check your rear derailler cage length. I came across this link, when I built up my Ritchey last year (and also pondered going compact but I eventually found taking a daily dose of HTFU was easier/cheaper):

http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur

 

Shimano standardised their PCD/BCD in 2014, so all cranksets use 110mm, but if your crankset is older, it will have compact at 110mm (113mm for Campy) compared to standard 130mm (135mm for Campy), so you have to change the full crankset. I'm not sure about 52/39, but I know 53/39 is/was 130mm.

[Li Mu Bai]

did jock with std 53/39 11/28 last year and was fine.

avoid eating too much in Sabie, you get lekker lazy in the midday sun making the climb out a chore.

The descent to Nelspruit is a thrilling time trial.

[HappyMartin]

When I changed to compact I was given the 172,5 by accident. Had been riding on 175. Decided to give it a try and immediately found it suited me better. That was just luck I suppose. Since then built up another bike and went with 172,5 deliberately. I find my pedal stroke is smoother and I feel more in control of the pedal. I was surprised such a small change could make such a big difference.

[LOOK695]

Would be cheaper to change your cassette than a complete crankset....