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Slowbee

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what oils/fluids y'all use to keep your hand tools, blades etc rust free? Any WD 40/ Q20 users?

What about jojoba oil?

 

I also would like to know. Here in Strand WD40 or Q20 helps close to buggerall. I have now resorted to store my tools in plastic containers with lids.

 

My planes all live in a cupboard in our home. Wifey don't mind.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Moridin
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I also would like to know. Here in Strand WD40 or Q20 helps close to buggerall. I have now resorted to store my tools in plastic containers with lids.

 

My planes all live in a cupboard in our home. Wifey don't mind.

 

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My woodwork teacher in my school days would have bliksemed you flatout for putting them face down even if the blades were retracted!

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My woodwork teacher in my school days would have bliksemed you flatout for putting them face down even if the blades were retracted!

 

Could never figure that one out. My houtwerk onnie also. His nickname was Besembek, but hell, he could swing a lat and get moerig easily. Don't the blades take a harder beating from planing the wood? I can understand if the bench was made from anything but wood.  :ph34r:

Edited by Moridin
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Could never figure that one out. My houtwerk onnie also. His nickname was Besembek, but hell, he could swing a lat and get moerig easily. Don't the blades take a harder beating from planing the wood? I can understand if the bench was made from anything but wood.  :ph34r:

I am sure its a habit building event. Bad habits translate to all surfaces.

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Recon I need to do this with my garage and tools

 

 

I have done this. Used bunch of pine lap boards, fastened to the mating cleat.

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I made some upgrades to my pool table over the weekend:

 

1.  I added a drawer to store all the cues, balls & table tennis stuff; and

2. Replaced the "string" pockets with leather pockets.

 

The drawer extends out fully, and once closed, it can swing up and away with two gas lifts.

 

 

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So my latest woodwork related project has been replacing the pin block of an 1880's Bechstein concert grand piano.

 

The whole pin block has to be almost completely hand shaped out of 40mm multi-laminated beech plywood which I airfreighted in from Germany.

 

Almost every surface of the plank is either curved, shaped or tapered with no two faces being parallel with each other.

 

Once fully shaped to exactly match the existing pin block so that it mates perfectly with the underside of the cast iron frame then the 240 odd holes for the tuning pins are drilled at precisely 2 degrees off of square to counter the roughly 100kgs of tension from each string and at precisely 6.8mm in diameter to prevent the 7mm tuning pin from slipping due to the tension of the string.

 

Finally the plank is lap jointed into the existing pieces of the old plank which are let into the edges of the piano. 52d04c69a5fb57a179ae5a7bd1ba25bf.jpgd4cbb2658d000e2aac4a1a10b5f5d6f9.jpg8e7aed88c766ade396f5f47a01115071.jpgeb216c0ce7dfe8a494322a7378334fd9.jpgcf40dff3c41ac270cd854a7200d163ef.jpg72b639130f9019b67b0941c66fe53fbf.jpg7557df99b21a3ef333c5b6a0d2cd1db2.jpg22b97b2a94d3b4e067f5eae45c515678.jpgbc64c0806fd316b2082e28742bdc1a1a.jpg0fa6f6566e3f6030cd45295622b5c42b.jpg

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Holy piano! That is seriously impressive. I always appreciate people with the skill & the love to restore old things and give them a new life. 

Thanks. :) I will take some better quality pics once it is all cleaned up and ready to go.

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Did anyone here visit NAADA at Mall of Africa this weekend?

 

Some really crazy carpentry items there!

 

I saw a simliar piano like the one Jimmycool posted above selling for R 400k.

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Next project is for some cabinets under and next to the built-in braai.

 

I plan to use birch ply for the carcasses and the African Rosewood for the doors / drawer fronts & side panels.

 

Which thickness do you suggest for the plywood?  15 mm / 18 mm?

 

Suppliers of plywood in Pretoria / JHB?

 

(I only used chipboard for previous cabinets but definitely need something better for this!)

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