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Posted

I've been away a while...

 

On the ferrous oxide treatment - the steel wool dissolved in vinegar - keep the lid loose on your bottle. It builds up pressure that can explode.

 

The treatment works best on woods with tannins, like oak. The wood goes black in just a few minutes, and you can sand it back to get quite a funky grey stain with lighter highlighted grain.

 

On other woods, like pine or low tannin woods, give them a good coat or two of black tea. It provides enough tannin for the reaction. 

 

Lekker to see you're all the workshop!

Posted

I've been away a while...

 

On the ferrous oxide treatment - the steel wool dissolved in vinegar - keep the lid loose on your bottle. It builds up pressure that can explode.

 

The treatment works best on woods with tannins, like oak. The wood goes black in just a few minutes, and you can sand it back to get quite a funky grey stain with lighter highlighted grain.

 

On other woods, like pine or low tannin woods, give them a good coat or two of black tea. It provides enough tannin for the reaction. 

 

Lekker to see you're all the workshop!

I have just sprayed with solvent based woodstain and wiped with a  rag with thinners on in the past till I get the colour/grain I want - has worked well for me - but I am going to try this mixture next time I need a greyish finish - might be easier than my method.

Posted

If you plan on using vinegar to remove rust then you need to be fairly careful with how long it is in for and also need to very quickly neutralise it after removing the parts.

Vinegar is an acidic solution so you need a base to sort that out. Bicarbonate of soda mixed with some warm water does a good job of that so the parts went from the vinegar into that and were swirled around for about 5 minutes.

This was the result straight out of the vinegar.

attachicon.gifafter-vin1.jpg

I really liked the patina on this bit so I did very little work afterwards to try and preserve it.

attachicon.gifafter-vin2.jpg

 

The rest of the parts were either treated to a scotch brite pad or P100 sandpaper depending on how much love they needed.

 

I had some lathe time at my inlaws place(Im still trying to get myself a lathe) so I turned a new knob for it, it wasnt entirely necessary but I wanted to add something custom to it.

attachicon.gifknob1.jpg

 

Next up was the tote, I had originally planned to make a new one because the old one was badly broken, but getting the drilled angle in it was not possible without a long travel drill press and I dont have one. I resorted to carefully cleaning up the surfaces, scraping/sanding and gluing the old one.

attachicon.giftote1.jpg

 

Next up I used a marble slab I have with sandpaper glued to it and went from 100-600 grit while flatening out the sole of the plane. It took a really really long time.

The lesson I learned after the first evening of sanding the iron is that you need one of these!

attachicon.gifresp.jpg

I didnt have one to start and it took about 4 days to get the taste of iron out of my mouth from inhaling the very fine dust. 

The sides were also treated to the flattening and cleaning up with sandpaper.

Unfortunately I didnt take pics of that because it was hours of hard labour and my hands were way too dirty to touch my phone. 

I realised there is a point of diminishing returns when working on the iron and some pitting cant be removed so it doesnt look 100% perfect.

I once scraped a lathe bed to get it flat again..... now THAT is an exercise in patience..... 6 weeks of an hour or two an evening with a loaner flat block.... NEVER again..... but I suspect this might be easier than sanding it flat. Lesson learned - never bet your engineer brother that you can do it easily..... :) I did at the time wonder why he was quite happy to organise the  flat surface loaner - which arrived on a forklift.... with a chain hoist and overhead lift to move the bed around....

Posted

Weekend project didn't get too far, life happened. Did start on a project I've been wanting to tackle for some time now, headboard for the spare bedroom, in anticipation of my mother in laws imminent arrival...

 

3184f62103e76d9e6f7eb157b0466dfc.jpg

 

Nice use of scrap timber. Tomorrow I'll trim the edges on the panel saw, then it can be finished.

please post pics of the finished product

Posted

I once scraped a lathe bed to get it flat again..... now THAT is an exercise in patience..... 6 weeks of an hour or two an evening with a loaner flat block.... NEVER again..... but I suspect this might be easier than sanding it flat. Lesson learned - never bet your engineer brother that you can do it easily..... :) I did at the time wonder why he was quite happy to organise the  flat surface loaner - which arrived on a forklift.... with a chain hoist and overhead lift to move the bed around....

I have heard that flattening the ways on a bed is a job best shipped off to a professional who will mill them flat. Hopefully you were smarter than me and used respiration protection from the start!

Posted

I have heard that flattening the ways on a bed is a job best shipped off to a professional who will mill them flat. Hopefully you were smarter than me and used respiration protection from the start!

Well - yes - best left to a pro if you ask me - but milling does not make them flat enough - and accuracy is dependant on the machine they use for it - the best way still seems to be hand scraping it for the final finish with the use of a proper surface plate - while it's a messy job there wasn't much aeration of dust at all - most of it seemed to stick into the wax used to show where you have scraped/need to scrape - using gloves helped keep hands clean but really reduces the feel of the tool (and you need this in a big way) in your hand.

Posted

How long(or would that be wide?) is it? Looks lekker man. My wife is busy shopping for a headboard. She has seen some she likes at ceilo and they not bad but this is looking a lot better.

It's 2440 x 620 (standard plywood sheet ripped in half on the length. Queen size bed is 1530 wide, so this will cover the bed and leave just enough room for the 2 pedestals. The plan is to fit a light sconce on the board,on each side, so that the bedside lamps do not stand in the pedestals, and I'm considering fitting a USB outlet too, for phone chargers, though one shouldn't sleep with your phone next to the bed...
Posted

It's 2440 x 620 (standard plywood sheet ripped in half on the length. Queen size bed is 1530 wide, so this will cover the bed and leave just enough room for the 2 pedestals. The plan is to fit a light sconce on the board,on each side, so that the bedside lamps do not stand in the pedestals, and I'm considering fitting a USB outlet too, for phone chargers, though one shouldn't sleep with your phone next to the bed...

I need to do that.... 

 

Thanks for ANOTHER item on the list!!

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