Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Short block - not on a wide base - you can't keep it securely in place.

 

Fingers very close to a very large blade - if that blade hooks that block your hand will be pulled into that blade.

 

It's not just going to take one finger.

 

That machine was not made for that job.

 

In fact cutting dado's on a cut-off saw is not a safe operation either.

Use a table saw with a sleigh.

 

There are plenty of things on YouTube I would never DO !!

 

Agree.

 

As the presenter mentioned at the start of the video:  You can use the router table.

 

Will be much safer and not much slower.

  • Replies 6.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

here you go... explains it perfectly

 

Love that modaular Paulk workbench he has. Its a sketchy way to cut dados though.

I just cut 4x 100mm dados on my tablesaw with crosscut sled, its amazing how easy it is, just takes a long time on a standard blade. Having a dado stack would have made it super fast.

Posted

So I have come to realise its really hard to build a workbench when you dont have a surface to work on! using a folding ladder as a platform for now...

post-4822-0-36671300-1505462561_thumb.jpg

The Anthem and Argon in the background need to get hanging brackets, Im just trying to figure out where to put them though. They are currently in the spot the bench will be going.

 

This little guy really surprised me, its a 60 1/2 clone with very solid construction and was brought out this week by a colleague from the UK. Its flippen hard to find a decent block plane locally.

After about 20 mins of felling to clear the horrible paint that had glued the adjustable throat closed and a very good sharpening its working like a bomb. That thing is a little monster and Im really enjoying it.

post-4822-0-38111300-1505462731_thumb.jpg

 

Dado/rabbet joints done on 2 legs and rear stretcher, today will be other two legs and front stretcher. Then its on to the top and bottom mortice and tennons. After the frame is done its lamination time for the beams and the top can go on.

Posted

Where did you get your pine? I previously used Baltic Timbers and Somerset Timbers here, but will never use them again for project lumber as they sell mostly cracked and banana lumber which is only useful for construction.

Posted

Where did you get your pine? I previously used Baltic Timbers and Somerset Timbers here, but will never use them again for project lumber as they sell mostly cracked and banana lumber which is only useful for construction.

Its actually pallet wood but from some really big pallets.

Its all from the Mercedez Benz factory in EL. Those beams were 2300x100x100 and were R25 each. Some slight cracking and the odd hole to deal with but Im going to doghole the top of the bench so will try incorporate those or drill out and dowel fill them if they dont fit the pattern.

 

Its a massive warehouse so I just buy a bit more wood than I need to cater for the odd ding and crack that will inevitably come with the wood.

Posted

Where did you get your pine? I previously used Baltic Timbers and Somerset Timbers here, but will never use them again for project lumber as they sell mostly cracked and banana lumber which is only useful for construction.

 

Try Airton Timber especially the Retreat branch.

Posted

54c1a695be17250af00064df74b0cbce.jpg

 

My weekend project, it is apparently called a Montessori Bed, for when the little people leave the cot and go to bed, not far to fall, and the frame lets them feel secure, or so they say. The guy I built it for wanted it to fit a 3/4 mattress, so it's quite big.

 

Now the mommy can dress it up with fairy lights and lace curtains.

Also good for draping a mozzie net over...............

Posted (edited)

Wow some really good skills here. My woodworking skills are sketchy at best, but have to post a few projects I've been busy with.

I was lent a Pieterson Saw, on a kind of permanent basis, which I've been using to cut pines into planks for sale locally. There's a lot of building going on in the local Lalies, and I aim to profit from it. The sawmills don't pay much for timber and I've got hectares of mature pine on the farm, so I've been cutting when I get the chance, and selling. About 2 years ago I started cutting poplars, some of which have diameters of up to 1m. A lot of heart wood, and a beautiful wood.

 

post-2975-0-78551800-1505721105_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately some of the planks warped terribly. My first project was to make a top for a washstand that we want to put a basin on. I found a couple of purlins that looked good, and put them through a thicknesser, then laminated them to make a sturdy platform

post-2975-0-44246900-1505721113_thumb.jpg

which when treated with a seal produced a beautiful finish.

post-2975-0-51239800-1505721120_thumb.jpg

 

Then our patio, which I started about 4 years ago, all the building was up, but I had to roof it. Over the last few weeks when I have a chance I've been planing and sanding the rafters, and when I sent my staff to the store for purlins, was told that they are all U shaped, so I had to find more trees to cut. That's been done, and the purlins thicknessed, planed and sanded, and fixed to the rafters, wet, to stop them from warping again. Now I'm ready to put the roof on.

post-2975-0-63819600-1505721132_thumb.jpg

 

The grooves in the wood are from the saw, on the down cut, it's cutting slightly too deeply, but that has finally been sorted.

 

Edit, a couple of the rafters are not as strong as I had hoped, and have been removed for replacement with larger timber.

Edited by deanbean
Posted

 

 

Then our patio, which I started about 4 years ago, all the building was up, but I had to roof it. Over the last few weeks when I have a chance I've been planing and sanding the rafters, and when I sent my staff to the store for purlins, was told that they are all U shaped, so I had to find more trees to cut. That's been done, and the purlins thicknessed, planed and sanded, and fixed to the rafters, wet, to stop them from warping again. Now I'm ready to put the roof on.

attachicon.gif20170903_103618.jpg

 

The grooves in the wood are from the saw, on the down cut, it's cutting slightly too deeply, but that has finally been sorted.

 

Edit, a couple of the rafters are not as strong as I had hoped, and have been removed for replacement with larger timber.

 

what's the span  and spacing on those patio beams, and H x W dimensions?

Posted

Span 4.8m and spacing is 1 m. I cut the rafters 140x50mm, to get more strength.

 

I'm going to get roasted here but I think you need a structural engineer to have a look at your design (please) just for piece of mind.

Think you might be a bit on the light side.

 

When you put the sheeting on the purlins I suggest you use fasteners with a proper thread and not nails as nails tend to go loose when nailed into green wood and the wood dries.

 

I also cut lumber from trees - have a Lucas Mill

Posted (edited)

I'm going to get roasted here but I think you need a structural engineer to have a look at your design (please) just for piece of mind.

Think you might be a bit on the light side.

 

When you put the sheeting on the purlins I suggest you use fasteners with a proper thread and not nails as nails tend to go loose when nailed into green wood and the wood dries.

 

I also cut lumber from trees - have a Lucas Mill

I see that :blush:. I only use threaded fasteners.

I've used a Lucas, very similar to the Pieterson

 

Edit. I think I'd better cut another tree down and double up on the rafters. Thanks for the advice.

Edited by deanbean

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout