Post your woodwork here

[Hairy]

A question about nail guns.... Our new house is in need of some simple cupboards in the kitchen and study. 

 

Kitchen cupboards will include a set of pot drawers, an under counter oven unit, a storage cupboard and a set of drawers if there is space. At this point in time the budget allows me to make up the cupboard carcass from 15mm beech ply for the exposed bits and pine ply for the internal bits. Doors will be CNC routed by a mate to match existing.

 

Study cupboards and work tops will probably be melamine 

 

I have seen guys using nail guns to assemble and it makes a load of sense so I decided to get a nail gun but I need help with what type?

 

Brad nailer or Finish nailer and then do you go with 16Ga or 18Ga nails? For cupboards I am inclined to stick with 2" nails

 

After some Internet research, my head is telling me a Brad nailer with F Type 18Ga 2" nails....

 

Please enlighten me. What do you real wood working gurus use?

I would stick to screws ... they will not pull loose like a nail could over time.

[V12man]

I would stick to screws ... they will not pull loose like a nail could over time.

Nailing... Screwing... all semantics... ????????

[Hairy]

Nailing... Screwing... all semantics...

one is ribbed and the other is not ............

[Grebel]

one is ribbed and the other is not ............

Depends on how you decide to nail it

[DJR]

Nailing... Screwing... all semantics...

If you really know your stuff you can nail a screw

[bertusras]

Woodworking guys (and girls, if there are any in here), I need someone to do me a favour (I will also pay of course).

 

I haven't got access to a lathe, and need something made for a small project that I'm doing. I need a tube of 50-60mm diameter, with a rounded nose, around 200mm length. Yes, yes, I know what you're thinking. 

 

 

But no, it's a rocket

 

 

Is there anyone who'd be willing to help me out with this? It can be plain SAP (or off cuts of anything if it's laying around) as I'll be sanding it smooth and painting it in high gloss, nothing fancy required.

 

Obviously the closer to Pretoria the better, but I'll also pay for postage should it be required.

 

Shot!

[Pants Boy]

Bertus give me a shout / WhatsApp on 0829405170. I'll be able to, err, knock one out for you

[bertusras]

Bertus give me a shout / WhatsApp on [number removed]. I'll be able to, err, knock one out for you

 

Awesome! Will do! Just take your number offline for the sake of spam! Thanks!!!

[LeTurbo]

It seems, these days, 10GB doesn't go anywhere. I just had to change my contract so I can at least get on the here. And pay the bills (not that I have the money to do that, but it's the thought that counts).

 

More weird workshop stuff. Stop me in it's boring.

 

I wanted a shower in here too. Changing from advertising to carpentry meant going from pre-work showers to post-work showers. 

 

I had a plumber rip out one of the three toilets and rediscover the old shower plumbing that had been covered up. It's an OK job, but the taps don't line up and little hassles like that. Showering in the temporary set-up felt like needing a shower after the shower. The only outlet was a hole in the wall in the right hand corner. Not good for the masonry.

 

Side to side, the space is about 800mm, which cut out a standard shower tray. And I hate working with cement. But my friend Juan had offcut shutter ply, about 4 square metres. Perfect.

 

The base is raised on a pine frame to accommodate the basic plumbing, working around that hole in the wall. I routed the joints and all in the workshop, then had to assemble in the room. I used Sticks Like ****, but it seems to just be overpriced silicon. Ordinary PVA might have been easier, and quicker drying. The edging is just standard pine cover strip, panel-pinned (by hand, Grebel!) and glued. The final finish is three coats of epoxy resin.

 

Cue sleazy 1970s Swedish porn music!

 

Actually, it's lekker because it's always warm to the touch, and the finish holds ok. I'd do it differently if I did it again, probably taking the water to a drain trough at one end instead of the drainage grooves which aren't particularly effective. Also, to avoid sharp corners where water and soap scum could build up. 

 

 

 

 

[MrJacques]

Interested to see how this will turn out!

 

On a side note, Windows can eat data with it's updates. Pause them and get a bandwidth monitor to check your usage.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

Interested to see how this will turn out!

 

On a side note, Windows can eat data with it's updates. Pause them and get a bandwidth monitor to check your usage.

 

Especially Windows 10 if you haven't set up metered connections.......

[Amberdrake]

Especially Windows 10 if you haven't set up metered connections.......

Do this ASAP, New 5gb update due in next little bit.

[Rocket-Boy]

I have always wanted to try some segmented turning, it looks really cool and I like the idea of being able to use offcuts to make things from... at least that was the theory until I realised how much wood it uses.

 

So I made the wedgie sled for my table saw. Im using a 12 segment ring for now because that can be set with a 30deg triangle which is cheap.

The first test ring was absolutely perfect, no gaps anywhere and its absolute bliss to turn because all the endgrain is in the joints.

I bumped into some problems with the actual rings I was making, I have possibly the cheapest/nastiest table saw you can get and it gets some blade deflection depending on the load. It meant the lines it was cutting were not always dead straight.

So some rings were glued into halves which were sanded flush later.

That isnt all of the rings, I found some of the steps between sizes were too big and so I had to make some intermediate sized ones to fit between.

 

I came up with what I think is a cool trick for mounting it and making the base ring which I will post pics of tomorrow once its all glued up.

 

So quick question for the guys who are old hands with table saws. Would a really high quality blade like a Freud pro make a big difference to cutting? Im using a cheap quality tork craft blade which is almost brand new but I get very unclean cuts and the deflection issue. 

 

I have checked the arbor and its running true so I think the flexing is caused by the blade.

[Rocket-Boy]

Forgot to mention I miscalculated the length of wood needed for the big ring so had to make another piece to fit it, shouldnt be a problem though as the inside and some of the outside will get turned down in the end.

 

Hard to believe but those few rings came out at 5.13m! which is a lot of wood. For the next one I should be able to make them narrower but being the first time I wasnt sure where it will overlap.

 

Its going to take a while, its already been about 5 days of work with cutting, gluing and truing up the rings. Next is the glue up process which will take around 2 days because its a ring at a time and then some turning in between.

[stefmeister]

I have always wanted to try some segmented turning, it looks really cool and I like the idea of being able to use offcuts to make things from... at least that was the theory until I realised how much wood it uses.

 

So I made the wedgie sled for my table saw. Im using a 12 segment ring for now because that can be set with a 30deg triangle which is cheap.

wedgie.jpg

The first test ring was absolutely perfect, no gaps anywhere and its absolute bliss to turn because all the endgrain is in the joints.

I bumped into some problems with the actual rings I was making, I have possibly the cheapest/nastiest table saw you can get and it gets some blade deflection depending on the load. It meant the lines it was cutting were not always dead straight.

So some rings were glued into halves which were sanded flush later.

rings.jpg

That isnt all of the rings, I found some of the steps between sizes were too big and so I had to make some intermediate sized ones to fit between.

 

I came up with what I think is a cool trick for mounting it and making the base ring which I will post pics of tomorrow once its all glued up.

 

So quick question for the guys who are old hands with table saws. Would a really high quality blade like a Freud pro make a big difference to cutting? Im using a cheap quality tork craft blade which is almost brand new but I get very unclean cuts and the deflection issue. 

 

I have checked the arbor and its running true so I think the flexing is caused by the blade.

Get a decent blade, yes. Thinner kerf if your saw is under-powered. But also pay attention to technique when feeding the wood. 

Rip cuts, a ~30t blade will also help, over a 48 t combination blade.

[Rocket-Boy]

Get a decent blade, yes. Thinner kerf if your saw is under-powered. But also pay attention to technique when feeding the wood. 

Rip cuts, a ~30t blade will also help, over a 48 t combination blade.

Ripping seems fine, the one redeeming feature of that saw is the fence is stupidly accurate.

Its manly crosscutting that is a pain and I will thinking of getting a think kerf dedicated crosscut blade in 60t.

 

That is where the real pain comes in... I have to disassemble the entire saw to change the blade! Its a terrible design, there is no cover to remove so you have to unbolt the base and then remove the cover plate to get to the inside. The blade is then changed from underneath so its not the most fun thing to do. 

 

*edit* having no cover plate around the blade opening means I cant make a zero clearance plate either, so I had to improvise there with the sled by clamping a piece of mdf on the opposite side.

Edited April 4, 2018 by Rocket-Boy