Post your woodwork here

[Slowbee]

totally off topic but my yellow clivia's took alot of strain not sure they are going to flower this year

[DJR]

Still off topic - all my clivias are struggling. Got aphids for the 1st time ever. I suppose because they are so stressed with the drought.

[DJR]

Back on topic - I like the weathered look Slowbee.

 

What do the experts say about removing the deck, treating the supporting beams and then putting the boards back with new bigger screws, but keeping the weathered look?

 

(All my teak outdoor furniture now looks like that and I like it.)

[Rocket-Boy]

Back on topic - I like the weathered look Slowbee.

 

What do the experts say about removing the deck, treating the supporting beams and then putting the boards back with new bigger screws, but keeping the weathered look?

 

(All my teak outdoor furniture now looks like that and I like it.)

Normally Im not a fan of the weathered look but it suits that deck nicely. Im sure there must be a way of preserving it. The wood looks like its not in a bad condition so the screws might be been popped out due to expansion and contraction over the years.

[V12man]

deck_resize.jpg

Maybe run a powered wire brush with the grain over that before sealing it - will keep the weathered look mostly intact and get rid of the loose stuff.

 

Definate;y want to check what the state of the support structure is first and fix that.

[Eddy Gordo]

totally off topic but my yellow clivia's took alot of strain not sure they are going to flower this year

Check for worms burrowing the bulbs

[Kranswurm]

So need some advice on wood.

 

Specifically meranti and more specifically with it relating to decks.

 

Our deck has been severely neglected. The varnish/sealant/overpaint is now pealing off. The screws are starting to push through and in some cash the screw are even lifting up. 

 

But now it is time for maintenance.

 

Is it a simple case of remove sand down, seal correctly and then replace? Or because of the screws pulling through the holes do I need to replace those planks or go bigger deck screw?

 

I might have left it to late, as the rain has started and it looks like the wood has already swollen. Should I leave it for the winter and do it in the summer? Or can it be done in winter with wet weather?

I had a timber frame in Scarborough for 13 years.First thing is you have left it too late.

You need to wait for summer

If the planks have twisted and split you will have to remove and replace.Otherwise they can be done insitu.

[Ed-Zulu]

The picture to me says some dry rot in places and when the screws start leaving the cross braces you have bottom rot.

 

You'll be able to squeeze some life from from that deck but I would start saving for replacement planks.

[Slowbee]

As you can see the spacing between the planks is to small. I have to remove the planks and increase the gap. So the possible option would be to wire brush over and then seal to keep the weathered look ? (will have to run that by Mrs Slowbee).

[Stretched@Birth]

So need some advice on wood.

 

Specifically meranti and more specifically with it relating to decks.

 

Our deck has been severely neglected. The varnish/sealant/overpaint is now pealing off. The screws are starting to push through and in some cash the screw are even lifting up. 

 

But now it is time for maintenance.

 

Is it a simple case of remove sand down, seal correctly and then replace? Or because of the screws pulling through the holes do I need to replace those planks or go bigger deck screw?

 

I might have left it to late, as the rain has started and it looks like the wood has already swollen. Should I leave it for the winter and do it in the summer? Or can it be done in winter with wet weather?

Should have done it before the rain, you had lots of dry time .  If you don't want to preserve the weathered look, my advice is as follows:

1. Contact Somerset Timbers, ask them how much they will charge to plane the wood, they should quote you a rate per meter, R3-50 is a fair price.

2. If the price is acceptable, remove the planks and drop them off at ST to plane.  They must just "clean" them, i.e. take 1 - 1.5mm off top and bottom.

3. While the planks are off, inspect the frame work for signs of decay and treat accordingly (replace decaying timber and coat with something like Waxsol).

4. Time to treat the newly planed planks - buy a piece of gutter slightly longer than your longest decking plank, and 2 end caps.  Glue the end caps to either end of the piece of gutter.  Pour in your sealer of choice (Woodoc Deck Dressing is not a bad option).  Dip planks into the sealer, "wipe" off excess with a paint brush, and allow to dry.  This ensures a nice seal all round.

5. Re-install planks with new screws, slightly bigger than your old screws (find out who your local Simpsons Strongtie reseller is, they do a nice stainless decking screw).

6. Treat with a second and third coat of deck dressing.

 

Job done...

[Hairy]

Should have done it before the rain, you had lots of dry time .  If you don't want to preserve the weathered look, my advice is as follows:

1. Contact Somerset Timbers, ask them how much they will charge to plane the wood, they should quote you a rate per meter, R3-50 is a fair price.

2. If the price is acceptable, remove the planks and drop them off at ST to plane.  They must just "clean" them, i.e. take 1 - 1.5mm off top and bottom.

3. While the planks are off, inspect the frame work for signs of decay and treat accordingly (replace decaying timber and coat with something like Waxsol).

4. Time to treat the newly planed planks - buy a piece of gutter slightly longer than your longest decking plank, and 2 end caps.  Glue the end caps to either end of the piece of gutter.  Pour in your sealer of choice (Woodoc Deck Dressing is not a bad option).  Dip planks into the sealer, "wipe" off excess with a paint brush, and allow to dry.  This ensures a nice seal all round.

5. Re-install planks with new screws, slightly bigger than your old screws (find out who your local Simpsons Strongtie reseller is, they do a nice stainless decking screw).

6. Treat with a second and third coat of deck dressing.

 

Job done...

you make that sounds so easy and painless a exercise

[porqui]

Remove planks

Sand lightly with 80 or 100 grit (by hand)

Give a really sloppy coat all round of 50/50 raw linseed and terps

Slop same mix on cross members

Replace with new screws and a 5mm gap

Slop another coat of 80 linseed and 20 terps

[Slowbee]

Should have done it before the rain, you had lots of dry time .  If you don't want to preserve the weathered look, my advice is as follows:

1. Contact Somerset Timbers, ask them how much they will charge to plane the wood, they should quote you a rate per meter, R3-50 is a fair price.

2. If the price is acceptable, remove the planks and drop them off at ST to plane.  They must just "clean" them, i.e. take 1 - 1.5mm off top and bottom.

3. While the planks are off, inspect the frame work for signs of decay and treat accordingly (replace decaying timber and coat with something like Waxsol).

4. Time to treat the newly planed planks - buy a piece of gutter slightly longer than your longest decking plank, and 2 end caps.  Glue the end caps to either end of the piece of gutter.  Pour in your sealer of choice (Woodoc Deck Dressing is not a bad option).  Dip planks into the sealer, "wipe" off excess with a paint brush, and allow to dry.  This ensures a nice seal all round.

5. Re-install planks with new screws, slightly bigger than your old screws (find out who your local Simpsons Strongtie reseller is, they do a nice stainless decking screw).

6. Treat with a second and third coat of deck dressing.

 

Job done...

would you use woodoc waterborne products?

[Slowbee]

Remove planks

Sand lightly with 80 or 100 grit (by hand)

Give a really sloppy coat all round of 50/50 raw linseed and terps

Slop same mix on cross members

Replace with new screws and a 5mm gap

Slop another coat of 80 linseed and 20 terps

why the recommendation of linseed? and of course would you do this on newly planed wood?

[Stretched@Birth]

would you use woodoc waterborne products?

The waterborne Woodoc is really good, especially on Pine, it doesn’t draw the tannins out of the wood as solvent based wood treatments do, so the wood keeps its natural light color.

[porqui]

why the recommendation of linseed? and of course would you do this on newly planed wood?

 

If the wood is one that naturally has a high oil content then it is really pointless to put an expensive treatment on it as it hardly soaks in. The linseed mix just adds a bit of color and protection to the wood. You do have to apply it again on a annual basis but you do not have to do much before you apply it - basically just wipe the wood clean and slop it on. Many of the commercial products sits on top of the wood and often flakes off or becomes patchy whereas the linseed does tend to draw in somewhat.

I do apply it to planed timber hence the 50/50 mix I would also wait at least a week before the second coat. Also have as little traffic as possible as linseed takes a while to dry (as in days) and then muddy feet leave grubby marks. Remember raw linseed not boiled.

 

If timber is meranti or pine I use a product called Rystix which is really a Rubol copy and a good one at that too at half the price. Would use it before I use Woodoc which is what I use for other applications.

Edited April 20, 2018 by porqui